Manix2 CPM S110V

Rasco said:
I took mine to the Sharpmaker tonight and honestly, I had a little bit of trouble with it.
I think the burr rolled, or something, up near the tip because 75% of the edge is razor sharp but the last 25% is significantly less sharp.

Oh well, I'm gonna throw it on the EPA on Mon or Tues, so I should be able to get it worked out.
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I normally use my wicked edge, I just bought the sharp maker to help keep them razor sharp. I won't use it to sharpen, just touch ups. I'm curious how hard 110v will be to sharpen.
 
Patiently waiting for my pre-order to get filled. Anybody have an idea when knifeworks is supposed to get re-stocked?
 
FDE said:
I'd also like to make a note that it would be possible the do this without completely destroying the frn handle. I made one slip with the drill bit and made a nick in the frn. I knew it would always bug me so so I gave up on trying to save the frn scales.
About it being a donor; I also used the black ball bearing cage from the frn model because I prefer the look over the clear one originally in the g10 knife.
I didn't want to "destroy" a perfectly good functioning knife to do this swap BUT in the past I've justified Wilkins g10 scales to improve a griptillian so I can certainly justify this.
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FDE, why did you have to drill the rivets in the first place? Is that really necessary just to perform a blade swap? Sorry, I am not familiar with the ball lock.
Now that you have taken the FRN version apart, can you comment on the shape of the steel liner that Spyderco is using inside the handles? Maybe even post a picture? I'm very curious! Thanks!
 
J.Vervoorst said:
FDE, why did you have to drill the rivets in the first place? Is that really necessary just to perform a blade swap? Sorry, I am not familiar with the ball lock.
Now that you have taken the FRN version apart, can you comment on the shape of the steel liner that Spyderco is using inside the handles? Maybe even post a picture? I'm very curious! Thanks!
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No personal experience here as I am leaving mine as is, but it is not the lock but the pivot that is the problem. You cannot simply unscrew the pivot screws and drop the pivot through. The blade is captured by the pivot pin and the pivot pin is captured by the blade and handles if that makes sense. You have to remove the scales, and the only way to fully remove the scales is to defeat the rivets. How well you do that will decide whether you get to re-use your LW knife with the other blade.
 
pnsxyr said:
I respectfully disagree that BD1 that performs anything like VG-10 or 154CM. It is perhaps one of the worst performing steels in terms of edge retention I have ever worked with as a few cuts of cardboard and the razor edge was gone. BD1 is closer to AUS-6 Spydies I have in terms of edge retention, and IMO is inferior to that (or at least this is for the specific BD1 I've worked with in the event heat treatments have changed.)
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My Manix2 CTS-BD1 also dulled extremely quickly until I sharpened it a few times. Now I get good performance from it.
 
A picture showing the pivot with screws removed. As you can see the frn scales are shaped so that they replace the g10 and steel liners when compared to the g10 manix 2 (dimensionally not structurally).
As said above the scales are riveted so you have to drill them out to remove the blade. If you were careful you could do so without destroying the FRN. You would then need to come up with a method to reattach the two halves.
 
Here is a comparison picture of the blade stop/back spacers. G10 is top FRN is bottom. Note the tiny steel liners on the FRN version. They support the pivot pin.

And here is a pic of both blades. I measured and the pivot pin hole and blade thickness is the same. The pivot pin itself is different (not the major diameter that fits in the blade) so if you try this use the pin from the G10 model.
 
Also note the little hole in the 110 blade. Much cleaner looking than the holes used my that other knife manufacturer to mark a different blade steel. Not that is really matters but I know it was a common complaint.
 
AF said:
My Manix2 CTS-BD1 also dulled extremely quickly until I sharpened it a few times. Now I get good performance from it.
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Is BD1 steel kind of like H1 in that it seems to get harder as it is sharpened? (especially SpyderEdges for whatever reason) When I sharpened it, it was the first time it had seen a sharpener to my understanding. I'll play with it a little next time or after a few touchups. Was the difference dramatic and did you do anything with modifying the angle? When I did it on an EP, I stayed with the set angle from the factory which I cant recall offhand. I really like the design so this makes me a little more hopeful with the base steel (as cool as 110 is, I imagine it takes a while to sharpen!)
 
pnsxyr said:
Is BD1 steel kind of like H1 in that it seems to get harder as it is sharpened? (especially SpyderEdges for whatever reason) When I sharpened it, it was the first time it had seen a sharpener to my understanding. I'll play with it a little next time or after a few touchups. Was the difference dramatic and did you do anything with modifying the angle? When I did it on an EP, I stayed with the set angle from the factory which I cant recall offhand. I really like the design so this makes me a little more hopeful with the base steel (as cool as 110 is, I imagine it takes a while to sharpen!)
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No, it's not like H1. H1 is work hardened. Maybe the edge was overheated from the factory sharpening? I would give CTS-BD1 another chance. It's doesn't have high wear resistance but it should be a solid performer. If you cut a lot of cardboard, S110V is probably a better choice. Sharpening S110V isn't bad with the right stones - ceramic, diamond, SiC. Raising a burr is no problem with a suitably coarse stone. Refining the edge is what takes longer - moving through the grits. It will take more strokes per grit. And you can't skip grits like you might with a BD1.
 
The BD1 has been my edc for the the last several weeks and the edge has held up good enough to only require a few passes on a strop to remain razor sharp. I plan on getting the S110V version as well.The Manix 2 Light Weight is a fantastic large edc!
 
I just opened the box on a Manix 2 S110V. I expected it to be light, but I really didn't think about how much I'd appreciate the FRN grip texture.
It is a beautiful example, and after a bit of touch up on the grind it sailed through last week's accumulated cardboard boxes. The lock is very smooth opening and closing, with no stickiness when sliding the button to unlock like I've had on some of my other Manix 2's.
My Manix 2 M4 just got bumped from my pocket. A very solid effort from Spyderco. Thanks!
 
Just got mine this last Friday.The FRN is feather lite, in kind of a weird way but bi-directional grip offers outstanding grip.Being that my edc is a S90V Manix 2 XL,the first thing I noticed was that the blade is soo much smaller.Spoiled rotten by my XL.Don't get me wrong, I still plan on getting a second.As I plan on drilling out the rivets on this and swapping it with a G-10 manix2.
 
Jibbles said:
I hope Spyderco cranks out a ridiculous surplus so you can never resell yours for anything more than $50 ever again.
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lol. Settle down, tough guy. Wasn't trying to make a profit. Just didn't want to take a big loss on a knife a few days old.
 
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