Review Manly Folders: Comrade, Peak, Wasp. Fixed Blades: Patriot and Drugar, Made in Bulgaria

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I am just posting here as recommended, about the Manly Wasp knife problem experienced by several people on YouTube. The thread is here: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...ve-a-question-about-it.1615985/#post-18459584

Essentially it is regarding the knife self-damaging the blade edge when the knife is closed too hard/quick or pressed against something in your pocket etc. My wasp is fine but several other people's are not. If the Manly rep could have a look there and perhaps look into it and/or comment here about it I would appreciate it.

Thanks.
 
Mine seems fine, hard to know if there was a group made in the beginning that is different
G2
 
I've read the above mentioned thread and watched the youtube video from Hugo Danner.
Most slip joint would do that if extreme amount of pressure is applied to the tip of the blade while closed. If you look at the geometry of Wasp, the most exposed part of the blade when closed is in the center of the blade (the end of the finger nail notch closest to the pivot). When force is applied at that point the blade barely moves. the blade moves more when more force is applied to the very end of the tip, but that's somewhat restricted from the knife geometry, the G10 scales do not allow you to easily apply the need it force for significant blade move.
I did a test on my personal wasp today, took the scale and liner off and performed the push test. Below are couple of pictures showing the clearance between the blade and spring, as well a sand links to you tube videos one with the knife partially disassembled and one with scales and liner on.
Video with liners off -
Video test 2 -

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The last picture shows the blade after all tests.
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Very good demonstrations. The only thing is it seems on the YouTuber I talked about, not that much force was needed and several YouTubers have had this issue all in the same place. Yet on my Wasp it is clearly ground down on that area and I am unable to push the blade down, even by putting a good amount of force right on the end of the blade. So, to me, this suggests a change in the design to mitigate this issue. Do you not agree? Why would his and yours be rounded on that area and have high blade movement (when pressed hard) yet mine is flat and does not push the blade down when I press hard? I only get the minute movement, very very slight movement.
 
on the last production run of wasps that I believe was shipped only in Europe, the part is grinned to avoid the intentional damage of the blade. In US and Canada we will see that version towards the end of 2018 or begging of 2019.
however I would like to stress that for us that was never a design flow, the blade movement is inherent in every slip joint, as I mentioned in the video the knife geometry eliminates the issue of happening when knife is carried in your pocket.

Cheers!
 
Thanks for clarifying about the design. I am happy the decision was made to grind it. I understand what you mean about the movement. The only difference is the level of force. If it takes a lot of force, that is fine, in my opinion. Perhaps the back spring of some people's on YouTube were weak because through normal use they are getting dents in the blade at that point near the screw in every case where it happens. But I am happy you guys at Manly are aware of these things and evolve the internals to make them more robust. It may be a small change here and a small change there but we, as users and buyers/fanboys, certainly will appreciate the more ruggedness and future-proofing of issues like this.

It would have been nice if they would supply these back springs to vendors/Manly distributors outside of Europe earlier though, once this decision was made to improve on the internal design. But at least it will come in a few months.
 
By the way, it is nice you supply tools for disassembly. But do you have any instruction videos on how to properly and safely assemble a Wasp if you have had to take it apart for major cleaning? I took my Wasp mostly apart to try and help that YouTuber out since I was not experiencing the issue with the blade denting that he was. It took forever to put back together and out of the millions of things I was trying I have no idea for sure what it was that got the thing back together. It would be nice if there were some tutorial videos for this?
 
In order to assemble any slip joint, you need a spring depressor, there are plenty of tutorials and videos for depressing a spring of a slip joint knife. Manly doesn't sell tools or "jigs" to aid disassembly of our slip joints, we also do not encourage our customers to disassemble the their knives, since that voids their warranty.
 
Lyubomir Trayanov said:
on the last production run of wasps that I believe was shipped only in Europe, the part is grinned to avoid the intentional damage of the blade. In US and Canada we will see that version towards the end of 2018 or begging of 2019.
however I would like to stress that for us that was never a design flow, the blade movement is inherent in every slip joint, as I mentioned in the video the knife geometry eliminates the issue of happening when knife is carried in your pocket.

Cheers!
Click to expand...
intentional damage ???? o_O
I think they are perfect as is, with no change needed. :) :thumbsup:
JOhYfmU.jpg
 
I think he meant unintentional. Nobody wants to screw up their knife. But that YouTuber clearly unintentionally damaged his knife after 2 days of owning it. Maybe his and the other YouTubers had a defective spring? I do not know, but I am happy Manly are taking steps to help prevent the issue. Who can complain about the positive evolution to further improve the product?! Let them improve things as much as they want.
 
Before I continue, I want to say I am very satisfied with the performance I am seeing with my Manly Wasp in terms of ensuring that the blade does not accidentally contact with the internals and dulling the blade. I have not seen any issues with this revised model :thumbsup:.

I mentioned in another thread but I'll mention it here where the Manly USA guy will see it and possibly pass this up the chain. I have seen a tear-down and re-assembly of a Benchmade slip joint on YouTube and I have personally disassembled my SOG Terminus and reassembled and both of these (and many other models and brands) have a little solid pin which fits into holes in the liners, near the pivot area, so that when the blade closes the bottom of the knife, near the pivot, rests it's specially fitting groove or flat area into the solid pin, which 100% prevents any further movement towards the closed direction. I strongly recommend this method for your future slip joint knives/revision updates as it is a foolproof and very robust method of preventing any and all contact of the blade with the internals.

Shown below:
ZSddIPW.jpg
 
I just wanted to draw attention to this, because the Manly USA representative said all slip joint knives suffer from the pressing issue and they did not consider it a flaw. I love my Manly knife, so please don't take what I am saying as a negative thing. I'm just wanting to be sure they are aware that this is a problem with existing solid solutions to resolve it.
 
Morthawt said:
I just wanted to draw attention to this, because the Manly USA representative said all slip joint knives suffer from the pressing issue and they did not consider it a flaw. I love my Manly knife, so please don't take what I am saying as a negative thing. I'm just wanting to be sure they are aware that this is a problem with existing solid solutions to resolve it.
Click to expand...

Slipjoints don't have them and don't need them.
 
The point is, damage can occur. It does occur. Generally speaking, in slip joint knives that have not specifically been engineered to prevent or limit it. You shouldn't [knowingly] make a folding slip joint knife and tell customers "Don't press the blade too hard else you'll destroy the cutting edge and it will need sharpening extensively to get rid of the present dent. Rinse and repeat when it happens again.". That would be seriously loony.

But, as it stands Manly have taken steps to mitigate the issue. Possibly not the most robust option that they could have done, but it is effective enough in my opinion and my experience. I am just saying, why not use a robust method, going forward. That first YouTuber specifically told me hardly any force is needed for the blade to contact inside and damage the edge. This would explain other people's experiences too, evidenced on YouTube videos. Maybe it's a bad batch, I have no idea. I only mentioned anything about any of this issue to find out what was the problem, find out it was an intentional fix to prevent the problem and say how happy I am that they cared enough to revise it's design. I love my Manly Wasp. If I had that issue however, I would not.
 
Mate, you’ve made your pitch to Manly now repeatedly. Enough now. If you want a slip joint with a stop pin, then you yourself have pointed out two alternatives. The fact is that most users do not require or want this feature in a slip joint. Manly may agree with your wish for a stop pin. Or they may not.
 
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