The edge geometry will matter more to performance than steel
I respect your work but come to work with me for just one day and you will be barking up another particle accelerator. Not that I cut anything all that difficult or for very long but it is night and day the diff when I do. Trust me I've done everything there is to do to an edge, geometry wise and toothy wise.
M4 and HAP-40 with stock factory Spyderco edge geometry and a couple of others I won't bore you with just make anything else (including S110V) look like assembly line rejects. Narrow geometry, wide geometry, convex, microbevels, toothy, polished (which actually works better for my push cut trimming), stropping, steeling / burnishing.
Plain old sharpening using the Edge Pro and two or three Shapton Glass stones at the stock geometry of around 15° to 18° ps at the stock behind the edge thickness of 18 to 20 some thou (I would go much thinner if I ever had reason to reprofile these things) and that goes three, four, five weeks and will still shave.
ANY lesser steel like . . . you name it BD-1, Case SS / CV, SAK, even S35VN (lower hardness), VG-10, 420, on and on and on . . .
dead in from one day to a week. Without fail.
You can have my high hardness tool steel when you cut through my cold dead fingers with your puny, girlyman, "easy to sharpen", low hardness, tungsten free, funny metal.
He said with an Arnold accent