Maul Head - Which Side is Top?

T

TallTalk

Joined
Jan 9, 2023
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I got an old maul head with no handle. It has a heavy US stamp and a single circle lightly stamped on one side and a heavily stamped 8 and two lightly stamped cirles on the other side. The handle openings measure basically the same diameter on both sides. (It's color appears to originally have been green.)

I want to put a new handle on it...Is there any way to know which side is the top - does it matter?
 
I don’t think it really matters IF the eyes are actually the same size.

Most likely one is actually larger than the other.

Edit: I wasn’t thinking clearly when I answered this before - the larger eye should actually go on the top either way - slip fit OR standard top fit/wedge.
 
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scdub said:
I don’t think it really matters IF the eyes are actually the same size.

Most likely one is actually larger than the other.

If the maul is slip-fit, the larger eye goes on the bottom.

If it’s a standard hang from the top with a wedge, the larger eye should go on the top to help keep it from loosening.
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Hi scdub, Thanks for the quick reply!

I've measured the openings on both sides with a micrometer and they're just the same. I REALLY appreciate the insights you offered and I'll remember that for future tool restorations.

I was trying to be a purist (just for my own ego gratification probably) and restore it properly. However. since it isn't really a thing of beauty to begin with and I plan to work it very hard, I'm thinking it really won't matter.
 
If there are any stamps/marks on it usually those are on the side that would be visible with the bit facing left/poll on the right. This can sometimes help when identifying which side is up in cases like these.
 
Picked up a little S&N mini-maul the other day that was like that. There might have been a way to tell but I sure couldn’t. Made a handle from a chopped-down double-bit with too much run-out. I don’t think it really matters if you can’t tell.

tAhHNcd.jpg
 
Yes, generally any stamps should be "right side up" . also large side of the eye opening should be the top of the head.

 
All of these comments go right into my library of "Don't Forget This!" I put a new handle on it and split a bunch of oak that fell on my neighbor's house after hurricane Ian today and the maul worked like a hero.
Thank you for the feedback/wisdom and best wishes to you all for your projectsa! the firepit will have a VERY warm glow in a few months when this wood cures!
 
NWFRS said:
Picked up a little S&N mini-maul the other day that was like that. There might have been a way to tell but I sure couldn’t. Made a handle from a chopped-down double-bit with too much run-out. I don’t think it really matters if you can’t tell.

tAhHNcd.jpg
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What kind of wood is that, NWFRS? Is it a stain or does is that wood naturally that dark?
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
If there are any stamps/marks on it usually those are on the side that would be visible with the bit facing left/poll on the right. This can sometimes help when identifying which side is up in cases like these.
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Hi FortyTwoBlades,
The only stamps were on the top/bottom. The maul head seems very pedestrian but after I re-edged it, it really performed like a champ. I easily split several oak disks I've been processing since hurricane Ian and am very glad to add it to my tool chest.
 
TallTalk said:
What kind of wood is that, NWFRS? Is it a stain or does is that wood naturally that dark?
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No stain. I tried a bunch of different methods before I settled on something. The wood is always very blonde. I sand to about 400 grit and then rub in a bunch of charcoal dust, together with isopropyl alcohol. It gets the black way down into the pores. Then I burn the handle all over with a tiny butane torch. Then I’ll do a little light sanding, together with multiple coats of linseed oil and, toward the end, wax.
 
NWFRS said:
No stain. I tried a bunch of different methods before I settled on something. The wood is always very blonde. I sand to about 400 grit and then rub in a bunch of charcoal dust, together with isopropyl alcohol. It gets the black way down into the pores. Then I burn the handle all over with a tiny butane torch. Then I’ll do a little light sanding, together with multiple coats of linseed oil and, toward the end, wax.
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cool
 
I’ve always seen the poundage mark on the side towards the handle. The bottom side that is. That’s how I’d proceed. I’d also open the eye up a bit so it had a little taper at the top. Dremel tool and a grinding bit or drum sander bit or a die grinder if ya got it and a compressor suitable.
 
JM2 said:
I’ve always seen the poundage mark on the side towards the handle. The bottom side that is. That’s how I’d proceed. I’d also open the eye up a bit so it had a little taper at the top. Dremel tool and a grinding bit or drum sander bit or a die grinder if ya got it and a compressor suitable.
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The above advice must be meant for a compression-fit eye?

Remember that (most) American axes (and this deinitely is one,i use an identical 8-lber and have for decades) are held on the haft thanks to an Hour-glass shape of eye. I.e. the openings may be the same but it's what's Inside is what matters (for the head to stat on when wedged,as this head was meant to be).

The way you can check for that hourglass shape is by dropping the caliper leg inside the eye against any of the sides,try them all,see whassup,but i doubt Very much it'll require any reprofiling.

TallTalk said:
I want to put a new handle on it...Is there any way to know which side is the top - does it matter?
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In this case it does Not matter. However,if there's any wear of the edge,it's best to make the shortest point of edge the Heel, as it makes bor more comfortable work with toe extending further.
When you'll wear the toe shorter switch it again (part of the reason for the symmetrical design to begin with).
 
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