Maxamet, M390 or S110v, any real use in everyday or camp chores?

[Dextar]

Hi there, seems I've decided to have Manix 2 as my next knife. Will be mainly used for hiking / camp chores.

I see three blade types: M390, S110v and Maxamet. After learning from the forum and interenet, seems a lot talk about the rust, retention, toughness.

May I ask from your real everyday or hiking use experience, any actual differences between the 3 blades?

If I bring the Maxamet one in often humid atmosphere when I go for hiking, is it really easy to be rusted?

Thank you!

 

[DMG]

Of those 3, m390 strikes the best balance of toughness, corrosion resistance, edge holding and ease of sharpening, in my opinion.

 

[David45]

Let me know when and where you find one in M390. I edc the Maxamet but I agree, it’s M390 for me.

 

[Alberta Ed]

390 is the best option, IMHO. Maxamet and S110Vn are great but a challenge to sharpen in the field. No worries about rust with any of them.

 

[Dextar]

Let me know when and where you find one in M390. I edc the Maxamet but I agree, it’s M390 for me.

I find the M390 one available in a online dealer in Canada, have no idea if there is a rule allowing post the name or address?
Here is the screen cut:

 

[chalby]

None of these steels are particularly tough, although IMO and in my use they are all tough enough for an EDC folder. I would say S110V is very slightly worse for toughness, just my opinion.

S110V and M390 are very stainless while Maxamet is not, so it depends on your use, climate, environment etc whether Maxamet will give you issues. In my experience it will patina over time, but isn't as prone to staining as something like K390. If you are using the knife regularly, I don't think you will generally have any issue with rust in "normal" conditions.

Edge retention will be similar enough in real world use, you probably wouldn't notice any difference if you didn't know which was which. Maxamet would(or should) be better if you were to measure it somehow, followed by S110V then M390.

I would be happy with any of them.

 

[Dextar]

S110V and M390 are very stainless while Maxamet is not,

This is exactly what I've read.

Maxamet would(or should) be better if you were to measure it somehow, followed by S110V then M390.

I would be happy with any of them.

Thank you for the clarification and a different opinion while above replies consider M390 is better
Very valuable for my consideration.

 

[bdmicarta]

The Manix 2 has been produced in at least 10 different steels. S30V, S110V, Maxamet, BD1N, maybe Spy27 are the ones that are regular production models, the more esoteric steels were limited runs that you have to look for on the used market, sometimes for high prices. There is nothing wrong with S30V or SPY27 so if you can fine one of those for a good price I think that is what you should choose. Now you have to decide if the want the heavier G10 version or the lightweight FRCP version, the FRCP is my favorite I carry and use one in S110V so I think that is a reasonable choice too, but more expensive. I would not recommend Maxamet for general use unless you understand the special properties of the steel. If you are willing to spend the money for a limited model then M390 is a good choice, and if you don't mind carbon steels then 4V, M4 and Rex45 might be good choices too.

 

[Ajack60]

None of those three steels like lateral stress. I've chipped out M390 and S110V with lateral pressure. I've been reluctant to use maxamet for anything other than cutting stuff up. I've read on the Spyderco forum here that maxamet is prone to breaking.
IMO, the best all around steel for what you want is S35VN. From what I've read, S45VN isn't as tough as S35VN. I don't have any experience with S45VN, but it's coming. I'm thinking Magnacut will be really good for a all around steel that will outperform
in it's class of steels. But who knows when that will be.

 

[chalby]

The Manix 2 has been produced in at least 10 different steels. S30V, S110V, Maxamet, BD1N, maybe Spy27 are the ones that are regular production models, the more esoteric steels were limited runs that you have to look for on the used market, sometimes for high prices. There is nothing wrong with S30V or SPY27 so if you can fine one of those for a good price I think that is what you should choose. Now you have to decide if the want the heavier G10 version or the lightweight FRCP version, the FRCP is my favorite I carry and use one in S110V so I think that is a reasonable choice too, but more expensive. I would not recommend Maxamet for general use unless you understand the special properties of the steel. If you are willing to spend the money for a limited model then M390 is a good choice, and if you don't mind carbon steels then 4V, M4 and Rex45 might be good choices too.

I agree that a steel like SPY27 or similar would be a better choice for toughness. If used as a hard use knife that would be what I would choose as well, but what do you mean about Maxamet and "unless you understand the special properties of the steel"? It's certainly not a tough steel as has been stated, but I have used it to sharpen hard wood stakes and in other moderately hard use situations and it has been surprisingly bullet proof so far and has kept a decent working edge for far longer than I expected.

 

[Dergyll]

Is none an option?

While I like all three, I find S110V and M390 chippy. Maxamet is rumored to chip since it's so hard, but I havent pushed mine yet.

If you're set on the Manix, I would (for hiking) go with the S35VN, CRU-WEAR sprints.

Maxamet doesnt rust as much as people think. I actually think M4 rusts quicker. If I HAD to pick out of the three, I'd go with M390.

My thoughts

 

[Dextar]

The Manix 2 has been produced in at least 10 different steels. S30V, S110V, Maxamet, BD1N, maybe Spy27 are the ones that are regular production models, the more esoteric steels were limited runs that you have to look for on the used market, sometimes for high prices. There is nothing wrong with S30V or SPY27 so if you can fine one of those for a good price I think that is what you should choose. Now you have to decide if the want the heavier G10 version or the lightweight FRCP version, the FRCP is my favorite I carry and use one in S110V so I think that is a reasonable choice too, but more expensive. I would not recommend Maxamet for general use unless you understand the special properties of the steel. If you are willing to spend the money for a limited model then M390 is a good choice, and if you don't mind carbon steels then 4V, M4 and Rex45 might be good choices too.

Thanks for detail reply.
I've had a PM2 S30V on own, so I am looking for a different steel for Manix 2.
Seems in the dealers website, there are only S110v, M390 and Maxamet available, can't wait longer time for the rest of models

 

[Dextar]

None of those three steels like lateral stress. I've chipped out M390 and S110V with lateral pressure. I've been reluctant to use maxamet for anything other than cutting stuff up. I've read on the Spyderco forum here that maxamet is prone to breaking.
IMO, the best all around steel for what you want is S35VN. From what I've read, S45VN isn't as tough as S35VN. I don't have any experience with S45VN, but it's coming. I'm thinking Magnacut will be really good for a all around steel that will outperform
in it's class of steels. But who knows when that will be.

A new option, S35VN hard to decide!
But when I search from Internet, seems there is no item available for Manix2 S35VN....Did I search the wrong term?

 

[Dextar]

Is none an option?

While I like all three, I find S110V and M390 chippy. Maxamet is rumored to chip since it's so hard, but I havent pushed mine yet.

If you're set on the Manix, I would (for hiking) go with the S35VN, CRU-WEAR sprints.

Maxamet doesnt rust as much as people think. I actually think M4 rusts quicker. If I HAD to pick out of the three, I'd go with M390.

My thoughts

Thanks for reply, another vote to S35VN.
I also see more with CRUWEAR on Youtube videos ;D

BTW, when I search from Internet, seems there is no item available for Manix2 S35VN....Did I search the wrong term?

 

[Skywalker31]

A new option, S35VN hard to decide!
But when I search from Internet, seems there is no item available for Manix2 S35VN....Did I search the wrong term?

I don't believe there has been an S35VN Manix2.

If you're considering the lightweight versions of the Manix2, there is a SPY27 option available, which has performed similarly to S35VN in Larrin 's testing for edge retention and toughness - https://knifesteelnerds.com/2021/05...eels-xhp-spy27-maxamet-rex-45-420-t15-rex-76/

 

[Dergyll]

Oops I did flub, there is no S35VN Manix 2 haha. CRUWEAR would be my pick if you can find one, I think its purple and coated.

Spyderco is switching from S30V to S45VN for their models, maybe the Manix will get an upgrade too given time.

 

[bikerector]

IMO, cruwear would be great for the manix 2 as the size and generous handle make it a great tough use folder.

I really like S110V but you have to know that it lacks toughness and can really be a butt to sharpen. It is great on slicing knives and the manix is a great slicer but just know that it's not going to be the best for longevity if you want to make it a hard use folder, such as camping.

The standard S30V is a great performer even if it feels outdated. For real world use, I don't see M390 as much of an upgrade.

For your uses, I wouldn't pick maxamet or S110V because they lack toughness which is something you will want for camping and hiking. I would go with the "lowly" BD1 if you can't get the cruwear but the cruwear would be ideal, IMO.

Edit, I see some of the new SPY27 is available at bladeHQ so it's probably available elsewhere. That should be a pretty good choice as I think it's roughly a US-version, and probably improved, VG10. I haven't looked into it much though, to be honest, so take that lightly until looking into it more.

 

[Karl H]

SPY27 or Cru-wear.

There have been reports of people snapping S110v and Maxamet Spyderco blades (Manix and other models with sharp plunge grind). You don't want to use these blades for scraping, prying, batoning, or any other activity that creates high tensile stress at the plunge line. I recommend reading the following article from Larrin Thomas:

How to Design Knives that Do Not Fail - Knife Steel Nerds

An article summarizing the different ways that a knife can fail and how to design to prevent each type of failure. It depends on the knife use and the user.

knifesteelnerds.com

 

[Dextar]

IMO, cruwear would be great for the manix 2 as the size and generous handle make it a great tough use folder.

I really like S110V but you have to know that it lacks toughness and can really be a butt to sharpen. It is great on slicing knives and the manix is a great slicer but just know that it's not going to be the best for longevity if you want to make it a hard use folder, such as camping.

The standard S30V is a great performer even if it feels outdated. For real world use, I don't see M390 as much of an upgrade.

For your uses, I wouldn't pick maxamet or S110V because they lack toughness which is something you will want for camping and hiking. I would go with the "lowly" BD1 if you can't get the cruwear but the cruwear would be ideal, IMO.

Edit, I see some of the new SPY27 is available at bladeHQ so it's probably available elsewhere. That should be a pretty good choice as I think it's roughly a US-version, and probably improved, VG10. I haven't looked into it much though, to be honest, so take that lightly until looking into it more.

Thanks for the very detail info. Seems I need to find a Cruwear or SPY27 version. I see a lot of pictures in this forum are knives with CRUWEAR, seems it's really popular.
But reading from other posts, is the CRUWEAR a stainless steel? I am going to bring it often in moist atmosphere...a little concern on the rusting

 

[Dextar]

SPY27 or Cru-wear.

There have been reports of people snapping S110v and Maxamet Spyderco blades (Manix and other models with sharp plunge grind). You don't want to use these blades for scraping, prying, batoning, or any other activity that creates high tensile stress at the plunge line. I recommend reading the following article from Larrin Thomas:

How to Design Knives that Do Not Fail - Knife Steel Nerds

An article summarizing the different ways that a knife can fail and how to design to prevent each type of failure. It depends on the knife use and the user.

knifesteelnerds.com

Thanks for the info.
BTW, seeing the picture from Internet, really like CRW-WEAR gray version.