Micro-Bevel?

Razor said:
Is this really needed? I have been sharpening my knives on the sharpmaker in the 30 degrees slot and so far so good. Just wondering.
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Sometimes it really is. The Spyderco Nilakka for example was shipped zero ground with no micro bevel. They experienced major chipping problems until Spydie recalled them and put on a microbevel.
 
^That is interesting, as is this thread. I've never heard of such low angles being used, I've always used the built-in 20 dps on Sharpmaker prior to freehanding. So you're doing that approach with all your knives--field knives, kitchen knives, folders, etc.? I'm pretty sure on something like a chopper for the outdoors, which is admittedly a special case, I'd want a thicker edge though for durability. Just recently while freehanding, what I've been doing is set the secondary bevel at around 15 dps, then aim for around 20 - 25 dps for the micro. Maybe I'll try these lower angles and see what happens.

Related item with low sharpening angles: Don't know if other folks have figured a way around this, but sometimes the very design of the knife makes it hard for me to get a low angle. Example: some of the Benchmade folders that have big thick handles and thumb studs, can make it really hard to get your blade on the stone at a low angle all the way to the rear of the blade.
 
I do about a 12° on things like machetes with a 15° micro. Just a hair thicker than a regular knife. And they'll hold up fine to anything except small diameter black locust with that edge.
 
To get a knife with big ol' thumb studs on a stone all the way to the base you can usually slant the knife until the stud is off the stone.
 
I know it's an old thread.
I just had my first experience with micro bevels. I'm super impressed. My new Benchmade (S30V) came with a very sharp 30 degree edge. I wanted to hone it a little, and polish the edge some. I ran it at 40 deg on the medium Sharp Maker rods, SUPER Lightly...just a few alternating strokes. The result? A very sharp edge that pops hair, and whittles fine hair. I couldn't be more impressed.

So literally in a few seconds, I can touch up that edge and always have a scary sharp knife on me.
 
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Microbevels can do whatever you want them to do. It depends on what you started with and the new angles involved. I've only used them to speed/sharpening. I use a 12 degree per side (dps) back bevel and a 15 dps Sharpmaker or hand applied microbevel. If I can see the microbevel as more than a fine line in strong light, it's too big.

I learned about them from Leonard Lee's book on sharpening. He recommends only a small angle increase, like 12 to 15 or 23 to 25 for chisels. This very narrow area of steel is quickly polished if desired.
 
I always use a microbevel. If I reprofile a knife, like I have with the 2 ZTs I recently acquired, I take the edge down to 15 dps or close to it, then I put a microbevel on with the 40 degree slots on my sharpmaker. I've come to find only using the medium stones makes for a nice, toothy microbevel that digs in and cuts, but also shaves hair and can split hairs. Plenty sharp enough imo.

I've tried just going with a straight 30 degree edge, but the microbevel wins out for me and my uses.
 
This has also become my standard method. I had too many instances of letting the microbevel get too big and took forever to get back down to size. My idea is to only have to do that heavy rebeveling once, not every three months.
 
I just tried a micro bevel for the first time. I was sharpening a friend's old, super dull, mushy stainless steel knives and it was impossible to get a keen edge. So I increased the angle on my edge pro just about 3 degrees and did 2 light strokes with the 1000 grit stone on each side. Finished of with my leather strop with Tormek paste. And behold, the edge came alive. So this my new standard technique on soft steels from now on.
 
Mr. Swede said:
I just tried a micro bevel for the first time. I was sharpening a friend's old, super dull, mushy stainless steel knives and it was impossible to get a keen edge. So I increased the angle on my edge pro just about 3 degrees and did 2 light strokes with the 1000 grit stone on each side. Finished of with my leather strop with Tormek paste. And behold, the edge came alive. So this my new standard technique on soft steels from now on.
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This has become one of my favorite methods to get a quick and reliable razor sharp edge. Work up a quick burr on the edge pro, raise the angle a few degrees and do a couple light passes.

Alternately, I'll do the same thing and sheer the burr off with a ceramic rod. I have a couple ceramic rods in a V shape in a block of wood, sort of like a home made Sharpmaker or Turnbox, set to about 21 degrees per side. I'll sharpen on the edge pro at 17° and do a few swipes on the ceramic rods and end up with a nice razor sharp edge in just a few minutes.

I remember seeing an A.G. Russell video on youtube where he did this, sharpen on a diamond stone until you have a burr, and then hit each side with the ceramic rod a couple times and you're good to go. Quick and effective.
 
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