"Mineral Oil" - what/how/where?

ikkyo

ikkyo

Joined
Mar 19, 2007
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I would like to treat some of my new Busse's micarta slabs, and use some lubricating on blades...but please, help me, what mineral oil exactly is? and where you get it?
thanks, Peter
 
Johnson Baby oil is 100% mineral oil, plus fragrance. No kidding. So slap some on there and your Busse will smell baby-butt fresh.

Mineral oil is also the light lubricant (15% or so) in WD-40, if you believe Wikipedia.
 
Mineral oil is a laxative. If you have trouble finding it, tell your pharmacist you're constipated. :p

It also works well as a conditioner for wooden cutting boards:

Seasoning A Cutting Board

Before using a new butcher block, season it to prevent staining and absorption of food odors and bacteria. Proper surface treatment is important to guard against germs and/or mold growth on both new and older boards. The wood surface needs an oil that can be repeatedly applied to fill the wood pores and repel food particles, liquids, and oils. Never use any vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish a cutting surface, as in time the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor.

*

USP-grade mineral oil is a popular choice as it is the cheapest pure food-grade oil you can buy (do not use vegetable or olive oils because they can turn rancid). Mineral oil remains safe throughout its life. There are various oils available for cutting boards and butcher blocks. Some are called "Butcher Block Finishes" or "Mystery Oil." Save some money by visiting the local hardware or drug store and purchasing Mineral Oil. (not mineral spirits - this is paint thinner).

When you see the words "food safe finish" in a description of a wood product, this generally means mineral oil has been used. Simply wipe mineral oil on the surface of your board and watch it soak in. When the wood won't take any more oil, you can wipe off the excess with a clean dry cloth. Don't worry about applying too much oil - more is better.
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Source: http://whatscookingamerica.net/CuttingBoards/AllAbout.htm
 
Guyon said:
UJ, see the above material about veg oil possibly turning rancid. I don't know if this would matter or not with a knife handle.
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Oh, crap!!! I missed that..

Once I get home I'll have to put some paint stripper on the handle and wash it. That usually takes out any residual oil absorbed in the micarta.

Thanks for the heads up man... Last thing I want is a rancid and smelly Busse. :eek: :thumbdn:

In the past I ususally darkened my micarta just by using my Busses a lot.
 
thanks guys, I jumped to the pharmacist- just other side of the road - and my new BAD an two NucEDC's are shining now...:thumbup:
 
We have never had trouble with olive oil going rancid on a blade or handle, but it is something to be aware of, I suppose.
 
Olive oil may not go rancid, but it's still a potential host for bacteria, so if you're going to use a knife for food prep it's probably safer to treat it with mineral oil.
 
You can find Mineral Oil most anywhere. I just picked up a bottle at Ace hardware.
 
LupaWolf said:
We have never had trouble with olive oil going rancid on a blade or handle, but it is something to be aware of, I suppose.
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I've had good luck with olive oil too, but my big bottle of laxative is a lot cheaper.
 
Shaolin said:
Are you saying this has to be done to a knive? Or if they are only being used?
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No, some just want the slabs darker. I like the more dry look but do like to oil black canvas. Degreaser or soap and water will get all the oil out if you wanted to see what one would look like oiled.

Like UnkleJ said...if you use the knife oil from hand will darken slabs, so no need to oil a user anyway.

There are many better blade oils's and protectants. Mineral oil is a decent blade protectant if you plan to do food prep with knife.
 
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