Mixing H.T. Oil?

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Feb 27, 2019
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Hello, about to Heat Treat my first Blade. Ran out of Canola Oil, and noticed we do have Vegetable Oil. Can I mix Canola Oil and Vegetable Oil for heat treating my 1080? I read they both are most similar, but wanted the pros opinions. Thanks guys!
-Clay
 
Using these should be 'compatible' (sometimes veg. oil is in fact canola) - but honestly, it's really not a good idea long term as these oils lose stability and you end up wasting it. Parks 50 or 'houghton k quench' & other types meant for quenching will be overall more economical & provide better results.
 
Using these should be 'compatible' (sometimes veg. oil is in fact canola) - but honestly, it's really not a good idea long term as these oils lose stability and you end up wasting it. Parks 50 or 'houghton k quench' & other types meant for quenching will be overall more economical & provide better results.

Lose stability how? I've had a quench tank of canola in my shed for 10 years and it still works great. Never had it go rancid on me or change characteristics noticeably.

I don't see any reason why you shouldn't mix the veg oil with the canola, it should be just fine. I wouldn't mix ATF with canola, but veg oil and canola are close to the same if not the same.
If this is your first knife, I would not waste money on expensive specialized oil for 1080.
 
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well, others have reported numerous times that it can go rancid, perhaps you have some stabilizer or additive? that would be interesting to figure out
 
well, others have reported numerous times that it can go rancid, perhaps you have some stabilizer or additive? that would be interesting to figure out

I don't use any additive. I've heard people say that too, but really how are they determining that the oil is rancid? Does it smell differently? Does it look different? As far as I know all oils can degrade over time, but the canola that's been sitting in my shed for 10 years still gets my 1080 hard as glass when I quench. It does what I need it to do and doesn't smell bad or look bad so I can't say there's anything wrong with it.
 
A Mod has already moved it.

Canola oil is rapeseed oil from Canada that is processed to have low acidity - CANadianOilLowAcid.. Vegetable oil can be from corn or other oils … including rapeseed. Corn oil and other oils may become acidic, and acid makes an oil go rancid faster. 10 years from a pot of canola oil is very unusual, but if kept tightly covered and in a lo humidity location, it could happen.

Commercial quenchants are blends of oils, mostly mineral oils, that have additives to make them stable and buffers to keep the Ph balanced.

Water from rain and moisture from humid climates are probably the biggest enemies of quench oil. Quenching blades that are way too hot also decreases the life and quality of the oils.
 
moisture from humid climates are probably the biggest enemies of quench oil.

Does this include Parks 50? I close/seal my bucket after using, but have noticed that the rubber seal is starting to stretch and may not be sealing completely. And living in Western WA there is significant humidity in the winter, so should I be more diligent with making sure it seals completely?
I guess there's no harm in doing the above anyway....but still curious.
Thanks
 
Parks is mineral oil based, so it isn't as subject to water ruining it as vegetable oils are. I would just keep a reasonably snug lid on it. No need to seal it hermetically.
 
I don't use any additive. I've heard people say that too, but really how are they determining that the oil is rancid? Does it smell differently? Does it look different? As far as I know all oils can degrade over time, but the canola that's been sitting in my shed for 10 years still gets my 1080 hard as glass when I quench. It does what I need it to do and doesn't smell bad or look bad so I can't say there's anything wrong with it.
We should fry up some tater tots with it to be sure...
If it's doing the job would it matter if it is rancid or not? Other than odor?
 
When an oil goes rancid, it is due to a breakdown of the chains of hydrocarbons that make up the oil. The result isn't the same oil with a bad smell, but a different oil. Besides an increase in acidity as it breads down, it has changes in its viscosity and water content. Vegetable oils are a lot better today than when I was a boy … but back then lard was considered the best cooking oil. If you are young, you probably have never had the pleasure of a tin of lard that has gone off.
 
So... I used my Bauer HF BandSaw and cut out a profile for a blade. When I was done, I saw another piece I wanted to get. I pulled the trigger and nothing... it did not work. Has anyone else had this problem with the bandsaw? I noticed Keeton had similar? Or was that the Milwaukee? Anyways, Very frustrating. I saw on YouTube one similar case and it was the variable speed switch had come undone, and he uses his upright as I was using mine for the 10 minutes I used it. It sliced through the steel with ease, motor was warm, not super hot or anything.. weird.
 
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I had a harbor freight angle grinder work for one cut, then stop. I took it back for a replacement and have used that one for the past couple of years.
Take it back and if you're willing to put up with this possibility, grab another one.
This is one of the risks when purchasing cheap tools, sometimes you get a good one, sometimes you get what you pay for.
 
I had a harbor freight angle grinder work for one cut, then stop. I took it back for a replacement and have used that one for the past couple of years.
Take it back and if you're willing to put up with this possibility, grab another one.
This is one of the risks when purchasing cheap tools, sometimes you get a good one, sometimes you get what you pay for.
Thanks man, this is kind of what I was really leaning towards.
 
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