modifying a bench vice for plate quenching

Joined
Aug 19, 2011
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925
vise2 1/2x4" aluminum plates
1/8" x 12" x 1" aluminum flat bar
drill
jb wield
square
sharpie/ scribe
chamfer bet
drill bet (to pre drill oles for screws)
3 flat head self tapping mettle screws
screw driver
4 screws the same diameter but 1/4" as those use to hold the plates in side the jaws. as that you will be adding a thicker plate you will need longer screws
2 clamps (open 4.5" or greater)
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measure from the top of the threads to the bottom of the plate (subtract about a 1/4")
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remove the plate from the inside of both jaws and save the plates
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use the measurement form the threads to the bottom of the original plate (- 1/4" ) to mark wear the aluminum plate should mount to the vice. mark the side that will face down (toured the thirds of the vice that is now the bottom
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tape the two aluminum plate together and use a few drop of instacure (supper glue) to attach the old plat to the new so that is can be used as a drill guid
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mark the side of the plates because being able to quickly telling the inside from the out sides will help in future steps (when the plates are separated the "x" will become arrows pouting to the inside )
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drill hole using a bit slightly larger the the screw that will be used to mount it.
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After drilling the first hole check to insure the screw fits in to it easily then leave the screw in it to help keep everything lined up
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Use a chamfer bit to chamfer the INSIDE of the plates (the sides that touch when the vice is closed) so the the screw heads will be resisted below the plane of the plate
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tape 1/8" flat bar to bottom of plate so that it over laps to the inside. This will keep blade from falling threw the vice,but allow the vice to closed fully. The tape will help hold the the flat bar in place and keep the JB wield from squeezing out and gluing the plate to your work bench. apply JB wield to bottom of 1/2" plate fold 1/8" flat bar in to place check line up and clamp
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once JB wield has cured remove tap and mark flat bar so that screws can be run in threw flat bar and into center of 1/2" plate (should be +/- 1/8" from side)
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pre drill hole for screws ember that the hole should equal to the diameter of the shaft of the screw so that the threads can bite
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put in screws
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attach plates to in side of vice. on most vices the original plate will have to go on as well so that the 1/2" aluminum plates have a flush backing. To help this line up the original plate with crew holes and again use a few drops of glue to attach. this will make it easier to attach the new plates. (use insecure/ super glue because if you are a little of you and nock the plate off and try again, if you use epoxy you may have a problem) I thought of this step after I put this one together so I did not get a picture
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plate should fit smoothly together adjustment can be made with car full a placation of force with a hammer if needed
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when doing large batches the plate will some times over heat to prevent this I have sent two plates out to a machine shop to have 1/8"x 3/16" grove cut horizontally along the out side of both plates. I will then sauder/ or epoxy 1/8" x 1" aluminum flat bar into the grooves to increase the surface area. I will let y'all know how it works
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So my understanding is that the goal is to get the metal from the furnace/kiln between the plates as quickly as possible. Aren't you wasting time by spinning on the vice. What if you used something more like a bar clamp that could just be slid closed but had to have the trigger pulled to release? Just curious here.
 
Using a simple 30 lb weight would be much more simpler, master knife maker todd begg does uses one, and it seems to be working.
 
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