Molding leather to shape

blgoode

blgoode

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 3, 2003
Messages
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I need to mold a pouch sheath to shape, with the knife inside.
What type of press do I need to make? I am new to this so I'm not sure what exactly needs to be done. I have 7/8 oz leather that I want to hold the knife form. Any info is great.
 
Hi blgoode,
FOr leather you dont need a press, just soak in warm water untill its flexible and use a smooth tool to mold it around the knife. If the blade is high carbon, ie non stainless, you might want to either tape it or wrap it in plastic wrap before hand. Otherwise just dry it after the molding.
Most leathercraft stores sell whats referred to as a bone folder, its what most of the leather smiths use to make the nice close mold shapes around the tool. Otherwise I have used my fingers, to varied success, and various other kitchen tools to gain similar results. In fact you can use a wooden spoon with great results, as long as its still smooth. But the bone folder is the best by far, and theres other tools as well. A lot of the clay tools will work fine as well.
Gimme a holler at armoralleather@armoralleather.com if you have any other questions, I do enjoy talking leather. :D And wet molding is one of my favorite processes.
 
I think I have a bone folder somewhere. That sounds like I can handle the process. Ever use acetone to wet the leather?
 
Originally posted by blgoode
I think I have a bone folder somewhere. That sounds like I can handle the process. Ever use acetone to wet the leather?
Click to expand...
I have never used acetone or any solvent on leather, it strips the oils right out then you end up with a brittle piece of rawhide. Even after a warm water bath some of the oils will leach out. Some people will oil the leather after but the damage is already done. The oil will not make the leather any better. Its a long term thing, you might not see damage at first but later the leather will crack and split. Unfortunately that will show after the customer has it in hand, and thats not a good thing.

For any friction fit sheaths the leather flexes and when brittle leather flexes it cracks, and with more use it gets worse. Its just not worth the trouble when water works fine. Dont worry about washing out the tannin, theres not enough left in a good quality leather to make any blade rust, just watch out for those cheap bulk leathers, they are poorly tanned and much of the acidic tanning solutions are left in, sometimes its even piss tanned:barf: and will smell horrible when wet.

Just remember an old addage I learned as a kid, oil is good, solvent is bad. :D
 
I don't want to hijack anything here, but my bone-folder seems to have sharp edges. How do you keep it from "biting" into the leather while it's damp?
 
Originally posted by Burchtree
I don't want to hijack anything here, but my bone-folder seems to have sharp edges. How do you keep it from "biting" into the leather while it's damp?
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Mine was the same way when I got it. I just used a fine sandpaper and a lot of patience. Just keep working at it untill you dont feel any catch spots. That stuff is hard and resistant to sanding but it will work eventually. The sharp spots are casting flash from production. I have been lusting after a real bone, bone folder I found at a supply store a while back, its a bit pricey though. I've also seen some handmade leather modeling tools make from Rosewood that seemed to be ideal because of the natural oils in Rosewood keeps it from becoming water logged.
 
you have veggie tanned and the chemical tanned leather
use the Veggie tanned tooling leather.
hot water is needed to soften it up to mold and then once dried it
will stiffen it up, (heat) hotwater causes the leather polymerize
so don't boil it. take a piece and boil it and see what you have.
oil will loosen it up so don't do that, leather as in anything
porous will absorb a certain amount of moisture
so just protect the Blade with a little oil and don't store the blade in the sheath.
for other uses when you want the leather to be supple use neat's-foot oil.
I've made sheaths for years and don't have a probem with the way I make them.:) hope this helps
 
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