Monterey Bay Knives Sea Lion Review

kreole

kreole

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This is a review of the Monterey Bay Knives Sea Lion. When I got the option to purchase it, there were no reviews at all, and there were few of any of the other models in this class from MBK. I wanted one despite that given Ray Laconico's time on the forum and having been stationed in Monterey. Since there aren't many reviews still, I figured I'd make one for other folks. I'm not trying to do a youtube-style "review everything" style post. For specs just go to the website. I am trying to hit what I noticed owning it and not before. Feel free to ask anything you want though.

Here are some overview pictures. I have sharpened it; it came sharp but was very obtuse--classic "show edge". The smaller screws and stop pin are steel, and the other body pieces are titanium. There's no side to side play, and it was very smooth after a dozen openings, though before that there was light lock stick (oil perhaps?) and felt gritty (rough stonewash finish perhaps?).

The finish is a dark stonewash, but in the sun it really sparkles; I tried to get a good video of this, but it's prettier than I could record. The blade matches the handle well, which is a nice touch. The stonewash also broke all the edges so that it is very comfortable in a hard grip.











(Click below if the video doesn't work.)





One side of the pivot doesn't seem to come out. I pressed down on the mat you see in the pictures pretty hard without it moving. It could be that it's just really tight, but I gave it enough force that I don't think that's the case. The inside of the handle is nicely beveled to make unlocking easy--but not unsafe.





The pivot is t8, and the body and clip screws are t6. The head is stamped like the ones on TiConnector, but I don't see this specific domed screw there. They feel very good; despite a slip or two while screwing in the body, they don't show any marks and aren't showing any signs of stripping. They are definitely on the better side.









While the stonewash is heavy, there are still some machining marks in the lockbar cutout (not a big deal and pretty common--but for the perfectionist I figured I'd point it out).





No needle tip here, but it's not crazy thick either. It'll pierce fine. It's a chubby blade overall, similar to a Benchmade 940 (also about the same dimensions).





One smaller note--but nice nonetheless--they made sure the clip screws don't stick out past the handle. This is a nice touch a lot of brands don't bother with.





Centering came perfect, and it goes together without needing to fiddle with it to get it centered.




There's no detent lash. The detent is ceramic (pics a bit later)

 
Let's talk lockup. After wearing in a bit, it did develop up and down lock rock. This is something I have found posted by others with other MBK framelocks. When I first got it, with the blade remove, the outer bevel of the lock bar naturally aligned with the inside edge of the handle. To fix the lock rock, I bent it in so that the outside edge of the lock bar aligns with the inside edge of the handle. That was enough to fix the play, it hasn't come back, and the lockup still looks good. Additionally, I carbidized the lock face, as I do with all titanium frame locks (this didn't change play or lockup). I didn't put a micrometer to it, but I'd say the cutout is thicker than a lot of framelocks because it took a lot of force to press over, much more than the other two knives I've done. I'll also add the locking sound from the factory was very dull from the lack of lock bar pressure, and moving it over has made it sound like others now. The detent strength is also more like I'd like it, also. Definitely recommend this change if you have one.



















The clip holds a surprise as well. The bottom is extra smoothed and curved. That makes it very comfortable in hand and probably helps putting it in the pocket. That's also the place that will slice a nice groove across your car's paint if it isn't a broken edge (ask how I know...), so it's good when companies put that extra effort in. You don't notice unless looking closely, but again for the perfectionists, it does look like this is done after finishing, so it doesn't have the same stonewash finish as the rest of the knife.






The jimping works if you stick your thumb point-down into it, but it slides off if you use your thumb parallel to the knife. I find this is common with this type of jimping. Coining works better with bare skin. This kind works better with work gloves than bare hands. It does, however, work fine for front flipping; yep, this thing front flips, and I'd guess the Sea Otter does as well, although I haven't ever seen anyone mention it with either knife.







(Click below if the video doesn't work.)

 
The thumbstuds are the second problem. They appear to be the #3 tactical thumbstuds from TiConnector. The issue is they stick out past the handle. That makes it really easy to flick or reverse flick, but the reason you don't see thumbstuds that stick out past the handle normally is it also means loose material of your pocket can easily catch them and lead to a partial opening (in your pocket). It happens easily in sport/exercise shorts, but it can even happen in like jeans when squatting down. The hole for the thumbstuds is smaller than most, or else like a Benchmade 940's thumbstud would be a perfect replacement. I plan to try the #4 thumbstuds from TiConnector, which are .160" long instead of the .200" of the #3s. I've had one other frame lock with thumb studs that stick out like this, and it is the only knife that has opened in my pocket--and did it multiple times before I relegated it to a benchtop knife. To be fair, I've had one partial opening with this knife so far, and it was also before bending in the lock bar (adding to the detent strength).









The lasering is cool up close. It has the MBK logo on the blade and steel hidden on the bottom.







 
Thanks for the write-up. IMO it seems like an unacceptable level of additional work is needed to get this knife to the quality befitting its price point, but I am sure that some people will still go for it.

The major concern I have with this design, and that I have heard reported on the smaller variant, is that the edge seems to be easily accessible between the handle scales when the blade is closed. I've cut myself a few times with knives designed that way, and this alone would keep me from ever trying a Sea Lion. I'm curious if this is something you have noted with your knife.
 
I'm always puzzled why other companies don't adopt simple block handles like MBK has seemingly done after their Laconico series.

In my search for a similarly styled somewhat budget knife, it's almost impossible to find. Especially in something 3.3-3.5". Waiting for the Corgi XL to hit the market, but it still has that distasteful inlay.

kreole kreole Aesthetically speaking, your knife is beautiful. Excellent run down.
 
Thanks for an excellent and authoritative review.
Hopefully it will lead to some much needed fixes.
 
For a follow up 2ish months later, I still haven't bought new thumb studs, but the little beast did open in my back pocket again when a dog walk turned into a squirrel chase and sliced right through the pocket. Luckily I saw the sunlight shine off the blade as it was sticking out like a silver tail. Normally I use it around the house only, but that time I left it in my pocket for a quick trip for chores and a walk in a park.

Afterwards I took it apart and bent in the lock bar quite a bit, and that has helped both with staying closed and the sound doesn't sound awful and soft anymore when it locks. Instead of sounds like any other framelock basically, which makes me think the factory setting is too soft/low. It's about 90% lockup now though. I also still try not to carry it around when walking the dog (or going for a run--lockbacks only for that).

When I took it apart I noticed the lock bar was very dented on the corner and beginning of the face, much worse than any other ti frame lock I've had, and I have a lot that are much older and much more used. (I carbidized the lock face again. Hopefully it'll help keep the lifespan longer.) I also noticed the detent ball has flattened some; I replace all my steel detent balls with ceramic and have never had a ceramic flatten on me before, one of mine or from a factory knife, so that's a curious one. (To clarify, it came with ceramic and I am talking about the factory ceramic detent ball flattening in this knife.)

Ultimately I just wouldn't recommend one of these US-made production MBK frame locks. I like the knife and plan to keep it and continue to use it, but I just wouldn't ever recommend it to anyone.
 
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marrenmiller said:
Thanks for the write-up. IMO it seems like an unacceptable level of additional work is needed to get this knife to the quality befitting its price point, but I am sure that some people will still go for it.

The major concern I have with this design, and that I have heard reported on the smaller variant, is that the edge seems to be easily accessible between the handle scales when the blade is closed. I've cut myself a few times with knives designed that way, and this alone would keep me from ever trying a Sea Lion. I'm curious if this is something you have noted with your knife.
Click to expand...
Apologies for missing your question the first time. I don't have any issues with the edge being too close to the handle on this one.

I definitely agree it's not a knife for someone who doesn't want something they need to mess with and that doesn't really align with the price. It has to be a design you like enough despite the other things to buy it. I'm guessing that doesn't fit too many people because the smaller variants show up on the secondary market quite often for how hard they are to buy from MBK.

Edit: I tried to see if I could cut myself with the tip or the heal. The short answer is no. The longer is looking at my finger tip against the tip it looks like it's touching or about to (but I couldn't feel it or get it to catch on my skin moving my thumb or index around there), and I can catch the heal on my fingernail. Both are buried pretty far.in, but maybe someone with fleshier digits could get their skin enough in there to get cut(?)









Edit 2: Got the tip eventually

 
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kreole said:
Apologies for missing your question the first time. I don't have any issues with the edge being too close to the handle on this one.

I definitely agree it's not a knife for someone who doesn't want something they need to mess with and that doesn't really align with the price. It has to be a design you like enough despite the other things to buy it. I'm guessing that doesn't fit too many people because the smaller variants show up on the secondary market quite often for how hard they are to buy from MBK.

Edit: I tried to see if I could cut myself with the tip or the heal. The short answer is no. The longer is looking at my finger tip against the tip it looks like it's touching or about to (but I couldn't feel it or get it to catch on my skin moving my thumb or index around there), and I can catch the heal on my fingernail. Both are buried pretty far.in, but maybe someone with fleshier digits could get their skin enough in there to get cut(?)









Edit 2: Got the tip eventually

Click to expand...
Thanks for testing. Based on your photos, I'd be less concerned about the tip and more about the heel.

What I've found is that if I reach my hand past the knife (like to grab something else further down in my pocket) and my pinky slides along the spine of the knife, knives with exposed heels will cut me. I can tell just by looking at your excellent photos that it would happen to me, as I've done it a few times (XM-18 Fatty comes readily to mind). For context, I have medium-large hands but thinner fingers, so this might be a problem that many people never encounter.

That issue aside, it's really too bad that these are not built particularly well. I know it's a lot to ask for a knife from a small shop to match CRK quality for the same price point, but there this one seems particularly poorly made. Hopefully they can turn that around.
 
marrenmiller said:
Thanks for testing. Based on your photos, I'd be less concerned about the tip and more about the heel.

What I've found is that if I reach my hand past the knife (like to grab something else further down in my pocket) and my pinky slides along the spine of the knife, knives with exposed heels will cut me. I can tell just by looking at your excellent photos that it would happen to me, as I've done it a few times (XM-18 Fatty comes readily to mind). For context, I have medium-large hands but thinner fingers, so this might be a problem that many people never encounter.

That issue aside, it's really too bad that these are not built particularly well. I know it's a lot to ask for a knife from a small shop to match CRK quality for the same price point, but there this one seems particularly poorly made. Hopefully they can turn that around.
Click to expand...

I tried measuring that in case you want the number. It's 1/16" exactly from the closest part of the edge to the top of the handle. I had a small Inkosi nearby and that looked similar so tried measuring that, 3/32", a bit more. Meanwhile something like a Spyderco PM2 is about half an inch deep to the edge.
 
kreole said:
I tried measuring that in case you want the number. It's 1/16" exactly from the closest part of the edge to the top of the handle. I had a small Inkosi nearby and that looked similar so tried measuring that, 3/32", a bit more. Meanwhile something like a Spyderco PM2 is about half an inch deep to the edge.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, that's more accessible than anything I own, especially considering the gap is fairly wide due to the 4mm stock thickness. Thanks for measuring!

I love how Spyderco buries their blades in their handles. I've never cut myself on a closed Spyderco.
 
This was an incredible review. I appreciate your attention to detail and being thorough. Not many go into this type of depth and the items you covered are important to "perfectionist" like me :) Thank you!
 
I must say, I truly appreciate the effort you put into reviewing and working on this knife, but it’s also disappointing to me how many flaws this model seems to have for what it’s promoted as being and the price point for what should be a somewhat “no frills” knife.
 
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