Mora 106 as a regular knife/edc?

sparklygalaxy

sparklygalaxy

Joined
Apr 6, 2018
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996
Hey guys! ^_^

I really like the Morakniv Wood Carving 106 knife:

61aWfhMqswL._SX679_.jpg


But apparently it is mainly intended for wood carving. Do any of you have one, and/or use it as an everyday carry? The blade length is Denver legal, and I like the handle a lot too. All around just really a cool looking blade.

Also, if anyone knows more about it in general, info welcome as always! :)

Thanks! I hope you guys are having a great afternoon! ^_^

~ Sparkly
 
I have an older one with a laminated blade. Takes a razor sharp edge. Only use it around house as concealed carry of a fixed blade, regardless of size, is illegal in my state. :-(
Rich
 
Looks like a skinnier smaller Puuko, I don't see why it shouldn't work for general cutting tasks. It all depends on your environment and cutting tasks really.
 
It’s a very enjoyable wood carving knife for sure, and very easy to sharpen. Mora knives are popular for several reasons, including value, fit and finish, handle ergonomics, and good steel to name a few.

Personally I don’t use them as a pocket or belt carry knife, but keep them in a backpack, drawer, toolkit, or vehicle.

The laminated version is very nice and is a tad more focused as a wood carver with a shorter blade for detailed control.
 
If you like carrying it, why not? Who knows, it might get you into wood carving as well. Concerning edc, one might argue that it's a pretty big handle that takes a lot of space on the belt for a pretty small blade, but if you get a good leather sheath for it it might work.
 
I have given such knives consideration in the past - roundabout the time I lived in Denver, actually - and held off for a few reasons.

- awkward handle:blade ratio
- no finger guard
- zero ground scandi grind (sharpened in a smooth curvature from flats to edge; no microbevel)
- unspecific about the blade steel
- no sharpening notch
- blade stock is surprisingly thick

It is a purpose-made wood carving knife, and would excel in that regard - but it didn’t strike me as particularly well-suited for EDC.

It would function adequately enough, sure, in that nearly any reasonably-sized blade can be used for general cutting tasks, but I don’t think the blade shape or the highly-specialized features will do you any favors.

Also, it looks a little too much like a shiv for my liking - but that’s my own tastes.

If you’re looking at inexpensive fixed blades, Mora is not a bad option. You might also look at Esee knives (like the Izula), the Cold Steel Pendleton Mini Hunter, CRKT Minimalist / SPEW / Obake, or Ka-Bar Becker Necker.

I'll grant you that none of these have the kind of old-world charm that the Mora 106 has - and seems to be largely the realm of your tastes - but they may prove to be much better-suited EDC knives. If you are looking to stay in the wood-handled realm of things, you might also consider the Mora No. 2/0, which, while very similar in overall design, has a blade shape and profile much better suited to most general tasks. It also has a cherry-finished birch handle.

morakniv-classic-no2-0.jpg
 
b00n said:
Looks like a skinnier smaller Puuko, I don't see why it shouldn't work for general cutting tasks. It all depends on your environment and cutting tasks really.
Click to expand...

This. The Puuko is the a traditional EDC of scandinavian countries though the scandi grind isn't, from the bit of reading I've done. The tip should be very useful on that.

To address some of Comeuppance's concerns, morakniv's stainless is sandvik 12C27 and 14C28N, the 106 is a laminated carbon steel core with ss outer I believe and I want to say it has been mentioned the carbon steel is something like a 1070/C75. While the scandi grind isn't many people's favorites for EDC it is good for wood (not normally an EDC task) but can be convex'ed pretty easily with a strop or sand paper sharpening for a more durable edge. Blade guards are a personal preference but I would argue they aren't need unless you are doing a lot of push cutting with forces aimed at the tip. I know most of my cutting are pull cuts where guards mostly get in the way. Of course, a lot of this is personal preference.

https://morakniv.se/en/knife-knowledge/the-steel/

blade thickness isn't too bad on this one but the scandi grinds can make the blades feel thick if there's much blade width, which this one doesn't have.
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Mora-of-Sweden-Wood-Carving-106--20983

One thing I like about some of the cheaper knives is they can be nice to mod, like adding you're own bevels to the blade or sanding the handle to fit your hand better. This is a common thing with some of the cheap Latin made machetes and a concept I think a few people like to do on the forums with other knives. Making the knife your own makes the cheap knife many people have something more unique and hopefully something you like more.

For a different suggestion at a similar price point, the CRKT Mossback bird and trout or hunter are both very nice knives for the money, IMO. I have a B&T that would make a great EDC if I didn't have something nicer, very slicey design.
 
Comeuppance said:
I have given such knives consideration in the past - roundabout the time I lived in Denver, actually - and held off for a few reasons.

- awkward handle:blade ratio
- no finger guard
- zero ground scandi grind (sharpened in a smooth curvature from flats to edge; no microbevel)
- unspecific about the blade steel
- no sharpening notch
- blade stock is surprisingly thick

It is a purpose-made wood carving knife, and would excel in that regard - but it didn’t strike me as particularly well-suited for EDC.

It would function adequately enough, sure, in that nearly any reasonably-sized blade can be used for general cutting tasks, but I don’t think the blade shape or the highly-specialized features will do you any favors.

Also, it looks a little too much like a shiv for my liking - but that’s my own tastes.

If you’re looking at inexpensive fixed blades, Mora is not a bad option. You might also look at Esee knives (like the Izula), the Cold Steel Pendleton Mini Hunter, CRKT Minimalist / SPEW / Obake, or Ka-Bar Becker Necker.

I'll grant you that none of these have the kind of old-world charm that the Mora 106 has - and seems to be largely the realm of your tastes - but they may prove to be much better-suited EDC knives. If you are looking to stay in the wood-handled realm of things, you might also consider the Mora No. 2/0, which, while very similar in overall design, has a blade shape and profile much better suited to most general tasks. It also has a cherry-finished birch handle.

morakniv-classic-no2-0.jpg
Click to expand...


I like the one you posted better as well. I'm relatively sure Cody Lundin from dual survival edc’s one just like that one as well.

I had a Pendleton Mini Hunter. It was literally adorabley small, but pretty awesome little knife. Also a good choice and I would take it over both the Moras
 
Comeuppance said:
I have given such knives consideration in the past - roundabout the time I lived in Denver, actually - and held off for a few reasons.

- awkward handle:blade ratio
- no finger guard
- zero ground scandi grind (sharpened in a smooth curvature from flats to edge; no microbevel)
- unspecific about the blade steel
- no sharpening notch
- blade stock is surprisingly thick
Click to expand...
The thing about a Scandi grind is that it's generally not really possible to put a functional sharpening notch/choil on it, because the notch would have to reach all the way beyond the grind line of the single bevel, which would force you to remove very much material at that place. Just an observation I made a while ago :):
4MnlyDi.jpg
 
Dr Heelhook said:
The thing about a Scandi grind is that it's generally not really possible to put a functional sharpening notch/choil on it, because the notch would have to reach all the way beyond the grind line of the single bevel, which would force you to remove very much material at that place. Just an observation I made a while ago :):
4MnlyDi.jpg
Click to expand...
But it is so very easy, childishly easy, to sharpen a scandi grind knife on bench stones, I don’t see it as a problem. Perhaps I’m missing something?
 
sparklygalaxy said:
Hey guys! ^_^

I really like the Morakniv Wood Carving 106 knife:

61aWfhMqswL._SX679_.jpg


But apparently it is mainly intended for wood carving. Do any of you have one, and/or use it as an everyday carry? The blade length is Denver legal, and I like the handle a lot too. All around just really a cool looking blade.

Also, if anyone knows more about it in general, info welcome as always! :)

Thanks! I hope you guys are having a great afternoon! ^_^

~ Sparkly
Click to expand...

Can't you just carry a normal pocket knife or small fixed blade?
 
Why not use it for a year or so and let us know what your opinion is, buying gear is fun but using gear leads to knowledge and wisdom.

In the last month or so you've acquired a half doze or so knives and you've only commented on how they looked, nothing about sharpening, how well they cut, whether that brick of a 110 effects carry etc.
 
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Pilsner said:
Hasn’t happened to any of my scandi grinds yet, but I can see how it could happen.
Click to expand...
If you have managed to remove substantial amounts of material from them without developing any recurve, I'd say you're probably pretty good at sharpening. :)

unwisefool said:
Even if it did, most of the knives are cheap enough that they can be replaced fairly easily.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's pretty much the idea behind them. You can whet and strop them when they get dull a couple times, then when they get blunt enough to need serious sharpening, you can just get a new one if you want and use the old one for grunt work.
 
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Mora laminated blades are excellent. I handled one for a trapper friend who said it held an edge better than any knife he'd ever seen -- most use the old red-handled Moras with non-laminated steel.
 
I have one. It's great for woodcarving, but I wouldn't recommend it for anything else. The blade chips easily. I got some chips and IIRC I broke off the tip working with a harder kind of wood. (The wood was too hard to be suitable).

The blade shape does have its' advantages. For similar EDC options I would recommend a small Puukko made from a suitable steel.

My advice: using a small Puukko-type knife is a great idea, but look for better options. Don't settle on a specific knife too soon, but take some time to enjoy 'the hunt' for the right model.

Have fun!
 
Dr Heelhook said:
If you have managed to remove substantial amounts of material from them without developing any recurve, I'd say you're probably pretty good at sharpening. :)
Click to expand...

Compared with some people on here I am barely competent, albeit not a bungling amateur. :)

For scandi blades I use Japanese waterstones. I will check my older scandi knives later to see if I have in fact started to recurve them!
 
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