Mora Original laminated steel

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The Mora Original laminated is a premium Mora not to be confused with the Mora Original.
This is the pinnacle of bushcraft knives.
Simplicity, comfort, and performance.
Hands down.



What sets this apart from the Mora classic( red handle) is the steel.
Most Mora knives have a carbon steel variation close to 1095.


This Mora however has a laminated O1 carbon tool steel core @ 61 HRC. sandwiched between two layers of much softer 1095 variation.



There is a notable differences between the performance of the laminated steel vs the regular carbon steel. It can take a much keener edge and hold it longer. However it takes much longer to sharpen and is easy to chip.



This is can be the sharpest knife I own yet it is quite brttlle. The edge has micro chips just from carving wood. Scandinavian grinds are a definite trade off for razor sharpness over durability.


Which is a fine trade as this is a specific tool for carving wood for crafting tools and objects out of the bush.


The knife Is full tang with a rat tail exposed at the back.
This doesn't make it a hard use knife however. It doesn't feel solid when batoning four finger thick pieces of wood. It also weighs about handful of feathers. Very light and nimble.



The handle is a birch wood. It comes lightly oiled from factory.
A few coats of boiled linseed oil really brings out the grain.
This handle feels great.
This is the ideal handle shape and design if a knife is being used in hand for hours. Which is unconventional for most knives and seen a a lack of features versus beneficial for the use of the knife.

No traction prevent s blisters.
No guard allows full use of blade and choking up as far as possible. Great for feathers sticks for dry tinder.
The neutral handle has an oval shape. Its comfortable in all bushcraft grips.



The sheath is a vulcanized fiber. It the exact same as the First Mora classics in the 1960s. It has a hard polymer like feel. It doesn't scream quality in hand but its waterproof.



The sheath retention works like a cork in a wine bottle. It works but is not the most secure.

The leather flap has a slot in the back to carry on clothing buttons very popular carry method in Scandinavia that makes us scratch our heads

The button carry is convenient. These knives weigh nothing and cost little and can be left on each jacket.


My preferred carry is a simple leather shoe lace

This also prevents sag and aids in retention.


Perfect knife for the Axe and bucksaw combo


Is it worth the extra cost? I'll give a conclusion later.
 
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How does the handle size compare to the "original" Mora? I have a couple of both, all in red handles, and the laminated ones have much smaller handles than the other type.
 
I compared the two knives at a shop a year ago. If my memory serves correctly the red handle Mora Classic is more bulbous. Its very subtle though.
 
I love the knife - screaming light-duty slicer, and your review seems objective. But does it prove the knife is the "pinnacle of bushcraft knives" or just a good value for an inexpensive knife?

This is can be the sharpest knife I own yet it is quite brttlle. The edge has micro chips just from carving wood. Scandinavian grinds are a definite trade off for razor sharpness over durability.

The knife Is full tang with a rat tail exposed at the back. This doesn't make it a hard use knife however. It doesn't feel solid when batoning four finger thick pieces of wood. It also weighs about handful of feathers. Very light and nimble.

[handle] No traction

The sheath retention works like a cork in a wine bottle. It works but is not the most secure.
 
Thanks for your observation Thomas.

Let me clarify

This knife is the pinnacle of Mora knives based carving performance, sharpness and fuction.
There are more decadent Mora's, but this is the base. This is the best steel Mora can offer.
It would be ridiculous to say out of all production bushcraft knives for all time. It definitely has all the features a bushcraft purist would want however it has an eleusive flaw. The spine will not hold an edge at 90°

My assumption is that the outer layers of steel are too soft which is great for toughness of the blade (not the edge) in preventing it from snapping in half for how brittle the cutting core is.

The spine will not make sparks

I've used files, carbide sharpeners and a dremel. No luck.

These methods worked great on my carbon Mora and stainless folders.

Perhaps some else can confirm.
 
I did a little research to try and help with the problem you are having with not being able to get sparks from the spine with this laminated Mora. I am extremely dubious as to a 1095/O-1/1095 san mai construction, but I have no experience with Mora knives at all. O-1 with a 1095 jacket just doesn't make any sense at all. So I tried to find out what it actually is, and it gets even more confusing.

But I think I have it pinned down. It really is 1095/O-1/1095. Which makes no sense, because 1095 is extremely similar to O-1 in composition, with plenty-o-carbon. You don't want a hard brittle steel like 1095 as the jacket material, you want a softer steel. Apparently this laminated construction currently being used by Mora is called "Tri-flex". Basically they decarburize the 1095 steel to a depth of about .1mm. This removes the carbon from the surface of the steel, making it a bit softer than it normally would be.

So that would explain readily why you can't get sparks from the spine of that knife. The steel jacket is too soft, and is robbed of it's carbon (on the surface). Soft steel has a hard time producing sparks from a flint, as does stainless steel. And some Mora laminates had/have 420 stainless as the outer layer of the laminated construction. Best sparks are produced with hard carbon steel and sharp flint. The softer the steel, the harder it is to get sparks.

Back to the decarburized 1095...why do they go thru the trouble of decarburizing 1095 to make it softer? Maybe their steel supplier does not have medium carbon steel. A san mai of 1050/O-1/1050 would work, giving the hard O1 steel some added toughness, but makes much better sense to do 420/O-1/420. Again, this may be a supply issue, as these knives are extremely affordable.
 
The "flint" most speak of is a ferrocerium rod (cigarette lighter "flint"). Scraping it firmly with any hard, sharp edge produces very hot sparks.

Natural flint can produce cooler sparks from striking knife-hard non-stainless steel. The friction of the sharp, hard flint shaving steel off produces heat by friction. The spark is a blob of initially-molten steel.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Flintlock_ignition_animation.gif
 
I did a little research to try and help with the problem you are having with not being able to get sparks from the spine with this laminated Mora. I am extremely dubious as to a 1095/O-1/1095 san mai construction, but I have no experience with Mora knives at all. O-1 with a 1095 jacket just doesn't make any sense at all. So I tried to find out what it actually is, and it gets even more confusing.

But I think I have it pinned down. It really is 1095/O-1/1095. Which makes no sense, because 1095 is extremely similar to O-1 in composition, with plenty-o-carbon. You don't want a hard brittle steel like 1095 as the jacket material, you want a softer steel. Apparently this laminated construction currently being used by Mora is called "Tri-flex". Basically they decarburize the 1095 steel to a depth of about .1mm. This removes the carbon from the surface of the steel, making it a bit softer than it normally would be.

So that would explain readily why you can't get sparks from the spine of that knife. The steel jacket is too soft, and is robbed of it's carbon (on the surface). Soft steel has a hard time producing sparks from a flint, as does stainless steel. And some Mora laminates had/have 420 stainless as the outer layer of the laminated construction. Best sparks are produced with hard carbon steel and sharp flint. The softer the steel, the harder it is to get sparks.

Back to the decarburized 1095...why do they go thru the trouble of decarburizing 1095 to make it softer? Maybe their steel supplier does not have medium carbon steel. A san mai of 1050/O-1/1050 would work, giving the hard O1 steel some added toughness, but makes much better sense to do 420/O-1/420. Again, this may be a supply issue, as these knives are extremely affordable.

The "flint" most speak of is a ferrocerium rod (cigarette lighter "flint"). Scraping it firmly with any hard, sharp edge produces very hot sparks.

Natural flint can produce cooler sparks from striking knife-hard non-stainless steel. The friction of the sharp, hard flint shaving steel off produces heat by friction. The spark is a blob of initially-molten steel.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Flintlock_ignition_animation.gif

I agree, 420j would be sweet, But ive concluded its the 1095 outer layers that are too soft to hold an edge to scrap off the ferrocerruim rod

Thomas is correct. People confuse flint and chert (rocks) with ferrocerruim ( a blend of soft pyrophoric metals)

Packaging and advertising on Coghlans brand ferrocerrium is incorrectly called " flint striker" there is no flint.


Stainless is a non issue with Ferrocerruim. It just needs a hard sharp edge.

Here are my observations that the steel at the spine is too soft to hold a 90 degree edge.

Here my Mora with a well used Swedish brand " light my fire" ferro rod


Using a file the spine was resharpened( the spine has been sharpened five times before) note the metal filings from the blade.
Its sharp enough to catch my thumb pad when rubbed perpendicular. Always a sign of a sharp spine.



The dark powder on the middle of the rod is all the spine could produce with a good deal of force. No sparks.



In the light reflections you can see the deformation of the spine.
Its just too soft. The rod is much harder then the steel.





The Fallkniven A1 is laminated with all stainless steel. And has no problems making sparks




I don't have a problem with making sparks off a spine. All rods come with strikers and strikers can be improvised.

This differential hardness can be a bonus in preventing catastrophic failure of the blade snapping. By making it flex under stress

However this is not a hard use blade. I'm not going to test its durability in that manner.
That's not the knifes purpose.

This blade is a total symbiont and relys on heavy working tools ( saws, machetes, axes) to truly complete the package and get work done in a time efficient manner.

This knife is the sharpest blade in my outdoor collection.
How long it holds that razor edge is a different story and can be disappointing.

But based on absolute "hair popping" sharpness this blade wins.

I enjoy the discussion bros.

I'll wrap this up in time,
thanks
 
Yikes I'm really feel in' this knife right now and I'll wrap up now.

Mora has increased the MAP pricing here in the states.

A total bummer, but what's worse is that I'll still buy them.

I paid $50 at my local store. About the same price online with shipping

Here's a quick look at both knives

(Mora Classic $15)


(Mora Original $50)

Is it worth the extra cost?

Thats a difficult question to answer and depends on the user.

At more then 3 times the cost of a Mora classic. Its a tough call especially for the casual user.
The performance is marginal for casual use.


Other scandi options for $50, Mora is not the only producer of fine Scandinavian cutlery.

Wood jewel offers these (drool)



As far as I know however, Mora is the only brand that offers a scandi with laminated steel for $50

For me, I'll spend the extra money on Mora Original vs the classic. Its not just the steel but the little aesthetics of the original (raw birch handle, and "unica" fiber sheath) that really completes the package over the classic (red paint handle and plastic sheath.)

Being a Mora fan and a fan of Duel Survival also swayed me.

There are a few performance test I'd like to share but time escapes me.

I'll post more later
 
I compared the two knives at a shop a year ago. If my memory serves correctly the red handle Mora Classic is more bulbous. Its very subtle though.
\

The handle of the laminated is significantly smaller
And if sharpened as a zero grind chips like crazy
It is the same problem of chipping with all Mora laminated small carving knives
 
The chipping, not sure if its the steel,heat treatment or grind.

I tolorate it. Why

No knife can carve such magnificent feathers for $50.

Monster Feathers carved with ease


Tinder and kindling all in one ready to go straight to small fuel wood.

Let me show the chipping/deformation


First I re sharpened the blade

Using my 6000k king water stone

Also
A chromium oxide paste loaded strop.

Lastly

Newspaper strop.

Result




Still some chips near the heel. Needs a coarser stone. Still screaming sharp though.



Testing edge on pine. Carving feathers



Felt great carved with ease. Best knife for this specific task. Scandi knives are the best to learn how to carve feathers.

Just from carving one monster feather stick however.



The reflections on the edge are deformation. (Dulling of the edge)

The steel is also so hard, these deformations can't be stroped out like the Mora carbon (which also deforms)

Honing on a high grit stone does the trick however.


This knife is not durable has no edge stability, but nothing I've experienced gets this sharp, and bites and carves wood this good.

Its noticeably sharper then the carbon but only to the observate user.

With heavy tools to supplement its weaknesses its a great knife.

Perhaps a Bark River Bushcrafter is the ultimate wood carver without the deformation issuses of the Mora.

3v steel is tough stuff I hear, and everyone raves about it

However that's a $200 knife compared to a $50 knife

I enjoy this knife despite its short comings

If I'm in a downpour and need to get a fire going this knife will carve the best feathers that fastest.


Feel free to share opinions
 
Moras always interested me but I worry about abusing them. How badly does the edge chip?
 
I am undoubtably biased beyond reason when it comes to Mora knives. Love them.:thumbup:

As far as the laminated ones go, I have a large and a small one.

If you have pants with suspender buttons, the button hole works great on the waist.

I think the large edge-bevel adds a level of control when cutting strips of wood, especially when the hand becomes tired or numb. You can push down on it and it just glides in a straight cutting path, rather than turning into or out of the wood (hence, easily made feather sticks).

That handle too... Pure comfort.

Great pictures!

Thanks.
 
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The technique to use the Mora Laminated so it does not chip is:
Slice along the whole length of the blade, where the travel of the blade cuts
Pull the knife as it puts less pressure on the blade
or push slide it at 45 degrees to the wood

If you push down in a fist grip or also twist at the end of the cut, the blade chips
 
The technique to use the Mora Laminated so it does not chip is:
Slice along the whole length of the blade, where the travel of the blade cuts
Pull the knife as it puts less pressure on the blade
or push slide it at 45 degrees to the wood

If you push down in a fist grip or also twist at the end of the cut, the blade chips

Right on neeman,

I disagree and that's ok. The advice given is great but contradicts how I carve my best feathers.

Different strokes for different folks.

Thanks.
 
Are you guys putting a micro bevel on your Mora lams? All mine have it and I've had no problems with chips.
 
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