Mora pro C, filling the gaps each side where the blade goes into the handle.

G

greebozz

Joined
Jun 30, 2006
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Just bought myself a new Mora pro C. I absolutely love everything about it apart from there is a gap each side of the blade where it enters the handle. I can slide a piece of paper about half a centimetre into the handle on each side. Obviously this is pretty disastrous for corrosion prevention and hygiene.

I rung the shop where I bought it, and they said the others were the same too. I'm going to repair it myself. I have some fish tank silicon in a gun, wondered what people thought about that or any other possible fillers for the gaps.

I've got hot melt glue, wood glue, and rubber glue. I'd rather not use epoxy as I have to buy a tube set which will cost more than the knife
 
Sorry, was trying to post a photograph without any luck. Is there anyway to upload one my hard drive or does it have to be from a web link. Thanks.
 
greebozz said:
....Mora Pro C ... I've got hot melt glue, wood glue, and rubber glue. I'd rather not use epoxy as I have to buy a tube set which will cost more than the knife
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Hi,
I've been there, epoxy cost more than blade ... but I've also seen ~$1 epoxy somewhere though I can't remember where exactly

I think I would use hot glue because the handle is also plastic and s hould resist abrasion better than rubber
 
thanks for your advice much appreciated. Great tip about the pictures for future reference. I don't think I have enough privileges to show any pictures at the moment but here is the link to the photo http://imgur.com/XFwMXg0
 
I use JB weld in grey tone when mounting guards; it fills this gap nicely and the color will match fairly close to what you have.
 
Fred.Rowe said:
I use JB weld in grey tone when mounting guards; it fills this gap nicely and the color will match fairly close to what you have.
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Thanks for your great suggestion, I had forgotten JB Weld existed and it's also really cheap. I have a slight issue that I'm concerned about though. Just using 2 fingers on my thumb, when I bend the blade slightly the gap widens. I'm worried that the plastic around the epoxy will deform causing a break in the seal.

Obviously not an issue on a more substantial knife. I think I'm going towards the idea of using silicon sealant and some delicate application.

Off topic, but I really love this knife, it's my first Scandinavian grind and I'm a convert. I'm not saying it's better than other blade designs, just good to have one.
 
Just a little update, use clear aquarium silicon to fill the gaps worked great, pretty much anything would do. Don't be put off this knife, its real nice. I've done some research and apparently some have this problem some don't.
 
Silicone sealant contains acetic acid. This is the vinegar smell while it cures. It will cause rust.
 
All my Scandis that have a ferrule or gap where the tang goes through get some hot wax. I just scrape/grind it into the area with the gap and hit it with a hot air gun or a few passes of a lighter. When it won't take any more, I'm done.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Silicone sealant contains acetic acid. This is the vinegar smell while it cures. It will cause rust.
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that's a very good point, I didn't think of that. I'll have to do some research if my silicon stays acidic, I have an do have some aquarium silicon.
 
HeavyHanded said:
All my Scandis that have a ferrule or gap where the tang goes through get some hot wax. I just scrape/grind it into the area with the gap and hit it with a hot air gun or a few passes of a lighter. When it won't take any more, I'm done.
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that sounds the easiest, maybe some nice beeswax. Incidentally asked a question on Amazon and for the pro s C model, some reported a gap and some not.

Off topic, but some people have been complaining online about the rear handle hump near the little finger. Personally I like it because I feel It will stop the nice sliding out my hand and maybe dropping overboard. Personally I don't see why anyone couldn't carve this protrusion down if they wanted to.
 
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