Mosaic pin question

timcsaw

timcsaw

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2007
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Hey fella's...
Ought to be a simple question...

Are Mosaic pins used primarily as an embellishment, or do they/can they in some way be used as a fastening component.

I am working on some scales for a full tang ,fixed blade and like the look of mosaic pins... just not sure about how to use them.

I assume, that they are cut to the thickness of the scale material, inserted in a hole of the proper diameter, and then sanded smooth as the scale is finished... that they are essentially an "inlay" material, and do not provide the "fastening" function that a pin or screw/corby would.

My plan is to fix the scales to the blade via epoxy and counter-sunk screws/corbys and then "inlay" a piece of mosaic pin over the top of the fastener. Is this a 'do-able' method, or is there an "approved" method of use for mosaic pin which does allow it to act as the fastener?

Thanks for tolerating my "newb" question.:o:D
 
Tim,
I've seen it done like that, also just using the mosaic as pinning. I rough up the outside of the tube with 36 or 60x and clean well and then epoxy them in like I would any pin. I like to have some epoxy rivets in the handle when I use them. Unless it's a fastener like a bolt it's just to prevent shearing. I really prefer to use them on partial tang knives.
 
IMHO Mosaic pins are popular with knife makers for their beauty and strength. Since your epoxies hold together your blade and handle. The pins just become part of that. If your breaking handles off your mosaic pins. You have to rethink your epoxies and use of your knife.
 
Just use the mosaic as you would a regular pin or tube. They're just 1/4" or similar tubing of whatever material filled to create a design. Cut them to the full thickness of the entire knife handle, drill your tang as you would normally, and use your epoxy to set up the handle and pins as you normally would.

--nathan
 
One of the first things an experienced maker (or buyer) will look at when judging the "fit and finish" of a knife is if the mosaic rivets are all aligned exactly the same.

Make sure when you are gluing the handle up that the rivets all have the same 12 0-clock indexing.

Some general tips:
Squares look better as diamonds ( corner at 12 0-clock).

Don't mix pin styles in a handle.

Often, simple is better than elaborate. Use very fancy mosaic pins on bigger and fancier knives. Use simpler mosaics on smaller and working knives.....if at all.

The eye sees odd numbers as more pleasing than even numbers ( except in breasts). Use three instead of two rivets with mosaics, when possible.

Less is better ( again, this doesn't always apply to breasts) .
On some working knives just one mosaic in the center, with Corby bolts to make the handle strong, looks more pleasing.

A larger center pin looks good. It draws your eye to the center.

Consider mosaic thong holes. Just one mosaic thong hole and Corby bolts can really dress up a hunter.

As with all slab handles, don't over-clamp and squeeze out all the epoxy between the scale and tang. Relieving the scale slightly (it only needs about .050) will prevent this.

Stacy
 
Does anyone know where to find the center part of the mosaic pins? To be specific I am talking about the deer head, or the hunter and dog, fish without the outer tube and epoxy so I can make it my way
 
Welcome Retsek70. Fill out your profile so we know a bit about you and where you live. It will help folks give better answers.

This is a 13-year-old tread, but still of current interest.

The center sections are either water jet cut or machined. I don't know anyone making them that doesn't sell them only as finished pins. The only fellow that comes to mind is in Russia anyway.

Mosaic thong tubes are sold by several suppliers. Most are about 3/8"/10mm size. They are pretty easy to make once you figure the size rods and tubes needed.
 
I see that - an interesting way to do it. That does sorta prevent flaring the thong hole and I like a flare on each side.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Just my grouchy dinosaur opinion, but mosaic pins, file work, and glued on handles are way over used. Most of it is just plain tacky.
Click to expand...
C’mon, tell us what you REALLY think about ‘em! 😆
 
Heck I remember the 70s. Had the hair and everything, middle back row, I was 17. Part of the track team, Waid Academy, Anstruther, Fife, Scotland, 1977. This lil itty bitty school had never lost a track meet in its history and as ya could guess from where it was it did indeed have a long history. Guy to my left was the national champion pole vaulter, guy in front of me was the 100 meter national champ, (9.9 sec 100 meter!!!). I was third in the nationals throwing the javelin and first in the Fife Championships.

YaDDDVr.jpg


Few weeks later a few of us went and climbed Benn Cruachan. Here at the base:

HHBKba7.jpg


Near the top I found a red stag shed and stuck it in my pack. Came back and made my first knife using the shed as the handle. A Dirk what else? Anyhoo having survived the 70s I still use mosaic pins. A lot of them. Why? They sell. Fact made a batch of knives a short time ago without them and they sold much slower than they do when I use em. Purty simple, mosaic pins sell better for me.
 
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