How To Most effective way to remove blue loctite from screw threads

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maximus83

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Nov 7, 2011
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What's the most effective way you've found to completely clean/remove loctite (or similar adhesive) from screw threads, and screw holes? (I realize some folks will say, I don't bother, I rely on applying new loctite to dissolve the old, IMHO that is not a great solution.).

In the past I've used rubbing alcohol, acetone, even nail polish remover. I've used Goo Gone. None has worked great, all required excess scrubbing or lengthy soaking. And getting into the holes and threads on a knife? Yeah, that's not happening.

Curious if someone here has found a better way. Either a new solvent I haven't tried, or a method using the above that works faster and more effectively.
 
I use a soft brass toothbrush-like brush that I got somewhere I can't remember to clean screw threads. Try running a thick cord through the screw holes to swipe out the threads.
 
maximus83 said:
What's the most effective way you've found to completely clean/remove loctite (or similar adhesive) from screw threads, and screw holes? (I realize some folks will say, I don't bother, I rely on applying new loctite to dissolve the old, IMHO that is not a great solution.).

In the past I've used rubbing alcohol, acetone, even nail polish remover. I've used Goo Gone. None has worked great, all required excess scrubbing or lengthy soaking. And getting into the holes and threads on a knife? Yeah, that's not happening.

Curious if someone here has found a better way. Either a new solvent I haven't tried, or a method using the above that works faster and more effectively.
Click to expand...

Their website says to soak them in Loctite solvent.
 
Alberta Ed said:
I use a soft brass toothbrush-like brush that I got somewhere I can't remember to clean screw threads. Try running a thick cord through the screw holes to swipe out the threads.
Click to expand...
I also use small brass and stainless brushes for male threads. For female threads, it's cloth, paper towel, or pipe cleaner brush twisted through the hole. For knife clip size screws (2x56?), I don't bother.
 
^Did a little more research, on the Loctite page for blue loctite 242 they say:

Cured: Remove with a combination of soaking in methylene chloride and mechanical abrasion such as a wire brush
Click to expand...

Searching a bit on their site and other forums discussing this, the closest solvent I could find from Loctite that contains methylene chloride is called Loctite Chisel, or Loctite #790. If someone knows another specific Loctite solvent that dissolve blue or red loctite, pls post up.

Last thing, stumbled across another doc on their site, more general info on HOW TO REMOVE GLUE FROM METAL. This page suggests 2 options for home products (the acetone and nail polish remover I've already found didn't work great):

* Soak a cleaning rag or cotton ball in pure acetone. If pure acetone isn’t handy, try nail polish remover.
* For a tougher alternative to acetone, experiment with denatured alcohol, lighter fluid, or hydrogen peroxide.

I have hydrogen peroxide and denatured alcohol here, may try those first as an alternative to the Loctite Chisel solvent, the stuff is pretty spendy.
 
maximus83 said:
^Did a little more research, on the Loctite page for blue loctite 242 they say:



Searching a bit on their site and other forums discussing this, the closest solvent I could find from Loctite that contains methylene chloride is called Loctite Chisel, or Loctite #790. If someone knows another specific Loctite solvent that dissolve blue or red loctite, pls post up.

Last thing, stumbled across another doc on their site, more general info on HOW TO REMOVE GLUE FROM METAL. This page suggests 2 options for home products (the acetone and nail polish remover I've already found didn't work great):

* Soak a cleaning rag or cotton ball in pure acetone. If pure acetone isn’t handy, try nail polish remover.
* For a tougher alternative to acetone, experiment with denatured alcohol, lighter fluid, or hydrogen peroxide.

I have hydrogen peroxide and denatured alcohol here, may try those first as an alternative to the Loctite Chisel solvent, the stuff is pretty spendy.
Click to expand...

Loctite Solvent.
 
Keep in mind solvent can make a gooey mess, which might be necessary to get female threads absolutely clean, but for male the brush will do it fast without mess.
 
i might have a problem, the screw is halfway into the socket. i was trying to apply some Loctite on the screw but ended up the wrong way making me have to unscrew the screw and put it back, i didn't know if i had enough Loctite on the screw (big mistake) and put a small amount more for just in case, tried to screw it on and now the screw wont budge. i don't want to destroy the screw but if its the only way to fix it i possibly will.
 
Methylene chloride was the active ingredient in paint stripper, back when we weren't all treated like children by our infinitely wise and benevolent babysitters and were still "allowed" to own nice things like gas stoves and toilets that flush the first time.

FWIW, I've heard that chlorinated brake cleaner helps remove cured Loctitie, though I have never tried it.
 
Not_BoxCat said:
i might have a problem, the screw is halfway into the socket. i was trying to apply some Loctite on the screw but ended up the wrong way making me have to unscrew the screw and put it back, i didn't know if i had enough Loctite on the screw (big mistake) and put a small amount more for just in case, tried to screw it on and now the screw wont budge. i don't want to destroy the screw but if its the only way to fix it i possibly will.
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If it siezed up as you were trying to screw it on that sounds like cross-threading.
 
eveled said:
Or Galling, especially if both were stainless steel. Either way, I doubt its from too much loctite.
Click to expand...
Doesn't loctite actually resist galling to a degree? Maybe not enough for aluminum or titanium, but enough that it is unlikely on stainless steel?
 
IDK, it certainly may.


FWIW, I stopped using Loctite. In favor of Vibratite VC3

You put it on the male threads let it dry, then assemble. It doesn’t ooze were you don’t want it. The fastener can be adjusted a number of times, there is no mess, it doesn’t transfer to the female threads. Its good stuff. You can disassemble and reassemble and still have protection.

 
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Heat the screw and immediately take it out. Heat softens Locktite. You only have to get it to 300-400 degrees.
I would use a small stainless brush in a flexible shaft machine on very low speed to clean external threads. The only way you can fully clean the internal threads is with a tap of the proper size, and if you have that-you probably have a die to run the screw into also.
 
Hi folks, sorry for resurrecting this old (very useful!) thread but I'm having real trouble with a pivot screw that I'm guessing I Loctite blue'd at some point but is now - for some reason - stuck superhumanly fast, and also very tight with no way that I can see of getting a solvent or similar in to work it's magic. I've tried dowsing the pivot head with alcohol and nail polish to no avail.

It's a richlite handle and earlier today I checked and found out that richlite will tolerate up to 350F, which unfortunately is uncomfortably close to the lower of the two temperature settings on the inexpensive hot air gun I bought, and so I envisage melted richlite should I bring that to bear. However, if someone has advice on how to wield said type of gun, I'm all ears as I can find little online about how not to melt one's knife handles in the usage of this gun.

Sorry if it's painfully obvious as to what I should do, I have googled a crap ton and don't feel confident enough in any of the solutions not to damage the knife and/or myself and/or my apartment and/or NYC etc etc.

Cheers
 
Use a soldering iron that is already hot. Apply to the screw head and immediately remove the screw.
A heat gun heats a large area. You need localized heat.
 
Definitely do not use an oxygen/acetylene torch! The soldering iron is a reasonable suggestion.
 
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