Most gentle polish that still does the job.

Joined
Feb 10, 2013
Messages
485
I have been looking at Flitz metal polish, Originally I was looking into nevrdull but found out that stuff can stain certain wood handles. I'm looking for something that is gentle, non toxic, No abrasives in it. I want the metal polish to be able to touch materials such as Macassar Ebony Dymondwood, rubber, plastic, wood, and anything else one would find in a knife, without fear of that material staining or corroding. Also if anyone could point me in the direction of the proper grit size sandpaper to take tiny surface scratches out of a 420 High Carbon steel Blade that would be appreciated.
 
I use Flitz, but it's pretty potent stuff. The ammonia eats into your fingers, and I wonder about it not having abrasives in it-- they say "non-abrasive" but I suspect they can say that cuz the grit size so miniscule. I believe there's an ammonia-free version tho.

How tiny is a tiny scratch? You'll want to match your grit size, if you start too fine you'll never get it done. I then run it all the way to 3000 grit, which in many lights can be mistaken for polish.
 
I have heard, but never tried, a banana peel for polishing brass. I cleaned my old class ring with white toothpaste and brush.
 
Yeah the scratches are super super miniscule just enough to bother the eye. So I couldn't imagine needing anything crazy as far as grit size.
 
There is a kitchen cleaner called Bon Ami. It's safe for glass. Maybe you could make paste and try that.
 
I'm hoping to find a retail product for sale instead of making my own. Non abrasive and no ammonia.
 
Last edited:
Flitz IS abrasive (aluminum oxide at about ~3 microns, per the manufacturer). So is Simichrome (aluminum oxide at about ~9 microns). Whatever 'staining' of wood handles might happen with these, is more likely due to metal swarf (black residue) being rubbed into the wood. Either of these are excellent for polishing steel blades. If protecting wood handles is a concern, perhaps taping or otherwise covering them might be the simplest solution.

If using wet/dry sandpaper to remove fine scratches, always start high in grit, only going lower if it's not effective. If sanding a satin-finish blade, anything in the 400-800 grit range works pretty well. If a polished blade, start as high as possible, at 2000+. Those might even leave some haze on a mirrored blade, but cleaning that up with Flitz/Simichrome is not too difficult, at that level of polish.

The 'white diamond' metal polish might be tin oxide. It's abrasive, but much softer than aluminum oxide, and wouldn't likely do much by hand on a hardened steel blade. Might be somewhat effective on a powered/driven device, like a buffing wheel. For what it's worth, any real metal 'polish' is likely to be somewhat abrasive, else it wouldn't polish at all. The products called 'non-abrasive' are usually soft enough to avoid damaging metals for which they're intended, but still abrasive nevertheless. The gentlest ones would be those recommended or designed for use on plated jewelry or antiques (gold/silver plating). If too abrasive, they'd strip the plating off (Flitz/Simichrome would damage them).


David
 
Flitz IS abrasive (aluminum oxide at about ~3 microns, per the manufacturer). So is Simichrome (aluminum oxide at about ~9 microns). Whatever 'staining' of wood handles might happen with these, is more likely due to metal swarf (black residue) being rubbed into the wood. Either of these are excellent for polishing steel blades. If protecting wood handles is a concern, perhaps taping or otherwise covering them might be the simplest solution.

If using wet/dry sandpaper to remove fine scratches, always start high in grit, only going lower if it's not effective. If sanding a satin-finish blade, anything in the 400-800 grit range works pretty well. If a polished blade, start as high as possible, at 2000+. Those might even leave some haze on a mirrored blade, but cleaning that up with Flitz/Simichrome is not too difficult, at that level of polish.

The 'white diamond' metal polish might be tin oxide. It's abrasive, but much softer than aluminum oxide, and wouldn't likely do much by hand on a hardened steel blade. Might be somewhat effective on a powered/driven device, like a buffing wheel. For what it's worth, any real metal 'polish' is likely to be somewhat abrasive, else it wouldn't polish at all. The products called 'non-abrasive' are usually soft enough to avoid damaging metals for which they're intended, but still abrasive nevertheless. The gentlest ones would be those recommended or designed for use on plated jewelry or antiques (gold/silver plating). If too abrasive, they'd strip the plating off (Flitz/Simichrome would damage them).


David


Dude thank you so much, I now understand. My new question would be to anyone. Is there something else I'm not aware of? Something that is not a " metal polish " and would keep brass from tarnishing, and maybe even other metals you would find on a knife ( nickle ) etc, my problem is my brass is perfect, so i don't want to put any type of polish on it now. I just want to keep it pretty. So maybe there is something that just keeps tarnish away, And I'm sure with all the information around, and information given. I'm probably good on removing the scratches from the blade. I'm just sort of stuck on how I am going to keep this brass looking scratch-less and with NO Tarnish. Some people like tarnish but I don't dig it one bit.
 
I've said it before, and I'll say it again: Wenol is the king of metal polishes.


wenol.jpg
 
You can not polish without abrasion.
Simichrome is the industry standard polish. It's what I use professionally.
 
Dude thank you so much, I now understand. My new question would be to anyone. Is there something else I'm not aware of? Something that is not a " metal polish " and would keep brass from tarnishing, and maybe even other metals you would find on a knife ( nickle ) etc, my problem is my brass is perfect, so i don't want to put any type of polish on it now. I just want to keep it pretty. So maybe there is something that just keeps tarnish away, And I'm sure with all the information around, and information given. I'm probably good on removing the scratches from the blade. I'm just sort of stuck on how I am going to keep this brass looking scratch-less and with NO Tarnish. Some people like tarnish but I don't dig it one bit.

You might look for something that coats the metal, instead of 'polishing' (implies abrasion). Some products perform more like a wax/protectant, which sounds like what you're hoping to find. I think 'Renaissance Wax' is more in this category, and I believe it's used (sometimes) for protecting metal finishes on antiques, swords, etc. from tarnish & fingerprints and the like. I think neutral shoe polish is sometimes used in a similar manner. Don't know how well either of these would hold up under steady use (of the knife). These products are more ordinarily used on display pieces that don't get handled much, I think.

If you're still planning on using a brass-bolstered knife, I'd not worry about the tarnish anyway. You can still use Flitz/Simichrome/Nevr-Dull on that, to clean it up periodically. Brass is inherently soft and prone to scratching/scuffing/tarnishing, so if you use the knife much at all, it'll inevitably start looking less 'perfect' as time goes by. About the only way to really keep it pristine is to not handle it at all, OR spend a disproportionate amount of time sanding out scratches & scuffs, and polishing.

BTW, the Wenol Polish mentioned earlier is very similar in composition to Simichrome, with a 'pink paste' of aluminum oxide abrasive, kerosene and ammonia among the ingredients, according to the msds (linked below). Both German-made too; even the tube & cap looks the same, save for the labelling.

http://www.laddresearch.com/wsmsds/13035msds.pdf


David
 
Last edited:
From someone that has tried a butt load of compounds including flitz and mothers its easy for me to say... those not intended for polishing hard metals don't work very well to polish hard metals, and if used in a sharpening application those compounds meant for polishing car parts do a very substandard job.
 
I'd just add-- having taken both D2 and M4 from 3000 grit to full polish w/ Flitz-- it's quite time consuming. And 3000-grit scratches are pretty tiny....
 
Back
Top