My 124 re-handle project - Done!

caquino

caquino

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Nov 4, 2007
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After ordering a 110 and 119 from the Buck custom shop with Buckeye Burl handles, I've been wishing that Buck would add the 124 to being customizable, but I don't think that going to happen any time soon.

So... I've decided to take matters into my own hands and do it myself. I've not messed with a fixed blade Buck before (the only previous experience I have in doing a "make over" is with my 110), and there is a lot of trepidation about what I would be getting myself into. Such as, how difficult was it going to be in removing the glued on Micarta scales? What kind of adhesive was used by Buck and how difficult was it going to be to cleaning all of the off old adhesive on the tang to get a smooth clean surface for the new wood?

I thought people might be interested in seeing what I've done so far, and the final results after I get this finished.

The Micarta is removed and the cured adhesive residue is removed and everything is ready for the new wood.

The rivet removal was easy, center punch the head and drill with a 1/8" bit, the head literally fell off, it was then a simple matter to push the rivets out with a pin punch. Next was to cut up the micarta into sections so I could remove them one at a time, with less bonded surface area to deal with, than trying to take it out in one piece.

A couple of hits with a 1/4" wood chisel near the tang and they popped loose without too much effort... I was fully expecting a full on fight.

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Cured glue and Micarta left behind.

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All cleaned up with acetone... easy peasy. Note the rivet holes... not drilled, but laser cut, note the little "tails" where the laser started out and then made the circular cut to form the hole.

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This arrived a few days ago from Arizona Ironwood... stabilized Buckeye Burl.

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And that's as far as I've gotten.

I'm trying to decided whether to go with cutlery rivets (like factory, or rivetless (epoxy only). If I use pins, do I go with exposed pins or blind pins. I'm leaning towards the blind pins at the moment, as I really don't want rivet heads or pins to detract from the burl pattern, and blind pins will add a degree of mechanical strength to the epoxy in bonding the handle with the tang (hopefully).

I've set the project aside for now, as I feel myself becoming a bit anxious/impatient to get it done, and by experience, I know that's when the screw ups happen.

Next will be precisely fitting the slabs between the guard and pommel, with no gaps... I'll get to doing that when my patience threshold is at maximum. I thought about removing the pommel, but I think I'd screw things up worse in the process, than fitting the wood in between the two ends
 
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Looks good so far.

Have you considered silver soldering the guard? You already have it apart and that is a “next level” touch that I really appreciate.

Are you going to alter the handle profile at all? Eliminate or exaggerate the finger grooves?

FWIW I’d go with blind rivets. Make sure when you fit the slabs to match them up to take advantage of the fantastic book end slabs.

Be sure to post more in process pictures Can’t wait for the finished pictures.
 
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Beautiful burl on those handles, looks like animal heads on them.
 
eveled said:
Looks good so far.

Have you considered silver soldering the guard? You already have it apart and that is a “next level” touch that I really appreciate.

Are you going to alter the handle profile at all? Eliminate or exaggerate the finger grooves?

FWIW I’d go with blind rivets. Make sure when you fit the slabs to match them up to take advantage of the fantastic book end slabs.

Be sure to post more in process pictures Can’t wait for the finished pictures.
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought about silver soldering the guard... good idea. But... I'm also wondering whether or not Buck also applied adhesive to the guard to help hold it in place along with the pins, if so might that interfere with the solder adhesion or even prevent it from wicking down into the guard?

As for the handle profile, I plan to make it less squarish and round off the corners off at the spine and belly of the tang. Had not given any thought about the finger grooves, but that's a good idea to think about... I'll probably make up my mine as I go along.

I'm now also thinking about as long as I'm "upgrading", why not do some filework or other embellishment on the guard and/or pommel.

What I'd really like to do is give the blade the "Chipflint" treatment like my 119 from the custom shop. I have no clue how to achieve that, but I can always do it at a later date if/when I can learn how to do it, and have practiced on some old throw away knives.
 
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I’ve been told you can but a new guard in silver brass or stainless would be even better. Lol.
 
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eveled said:
I’ve been told you can but a new guard in silver brass or stainless would be even better. Lol.
Click to expand...
The answer is yes. The problem is mating aluminum to other metals requires a lot of heat, technique and skill most of us don't have. Not good for blade temper plus cosmetic damage to blade. Also, all parts have to be spotless of all contaminants. Silver solder on the other hand flows with minimum heat to brass, n/s and stainless. Even this is tricky to keep from burning the flux before each part comes up to heat to melt the solder. If it turns black the solder will not flow or adhere. I have only done about 20, so I am no expert. In my opinion it's the only way to go. It's a beautiful thing when it works.

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Looks like a fun project. I'm sure yours will be truly beautiful.

*in the past.... I've removed epoxied handle scales with dipping the handle in boiling water.
 
Thanks all for your comments, it's especially appreciated from those that have already gone down this garden path giving me guidance... This is definitely a learning experience as I proceed through the project, and one that I'm enjoying.

While many of the craft skills being used are not new to me, applying them to this type of endeavor is.
 
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So it's been a couple of weeks since my last posting... thought I'd do an update.

Slabs fitted into the existing handle spaces:

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You can see here that I got a pretty good match up with the "book end" grain pattern of the slabs.

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Slab undersides drilled and blind pins fitted. When glued up, these will extend through the holes in the tang and into holes on the underside
of the slab on the opposite side, hopefully adding a mechanical bond with the epoxy to lock everything together.

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Glue up begins:

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Will let this cure for a few days and then on to shaping....
 
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Well... she's done!

It was an interesting project, some things were easier, others were more of a challenge than anticipated. Doing the final buffing and polishing on the pommel was more of a challenge than expected. I sanded to 2000 grit, but after buffing, it still looked "grainy". I finally realized that I needed to wet sand the aluminum, done dry, the paper loaded up and kept causing fine hair line scratches that wouldn't buff out, or maybe I just wasn't doing the buffing right (wrong compound?), or needed to sand to a finer grit... 2500, 3000?

It was/is frustrating that after a couple of attempt with different polishing compounds, I haven't managed to achieve the degree of polished sheen on the wood that I'm looking for.

I'm going to buy a non-sewn buffing wheel and the pink noscratch buffing compound, it seems to be what does the trick on stabilized wood from what I've dug up via Google and Youtube videos.

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And so, it completes my Buckeye Burl "Trifecta" (the 110 & 119 are Buck Custom Shop) that I've had in mind.

I'm really pleased with the results of this first time effort.

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