My CruForge V heat treat and the results

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Dec 25, 2000
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My heat treat schedule
1 - forge to shape, heat to red and stick in vermiculite.
2 - rough grind/ mill shoulders
3 - normalize 3 times. cool to room temp between heats.
4 - heat in furnace at 1500 for 10 minutes. quench in oil.
5 - cool to room temp, put in freezer until cool then in Liquid N2 overnight.
6 - 2 hour temper at 410
7 - use torch to draw back to blue with edge in water. cool to room temp. repeat for 3 times total.
8 - 2 hour temper at 415
9 - 2 hour temper at 415 (I will raise to 425 now that I see these tests)

The following is the met lab results for my first blade. 4" recurve hunter. The test blade has exceeded their expectations for ultra fineness of grain, fineness, dispersion, and amount of vanadium carbides. So far they are crediting the forging process, partly, for the excellent structure. It turns out this is new territory ( forgeable steel with vanadium carbides and not much else) The white spots in photos are vanadium carbides, the dark diamond shapes are the hardness test impressions. This blade was made from a small 3 lbs cast ingot, and they expect the blades made from the forged/rolled bars to be even better!

http://gallery.me.com/ddfarr/100032

This steel went through 4 formulations until it was easy to use, showed structure that gave it improved performance, and was very reasonably priced. It has been tested and refined for 3 years, and there is really no reason to fumble around with it. I know it is a little weird because as forgers we have never had a steel designed and presented to us this way, but the designers took into consideration our tools and methods. I know because I went to the research facility in Pittsburgh and forged a blade, heat treated a blade, and hand sanded a blade with my equipment while they watched. I pointed out things like steels that air harden stink for hand forging, and inclusions that show up when you get to 600 grit are more than a little frustrating. They saw our tools, and knew to design it to be forgiving, because we don't have perfect temp control with our forges. (I may have scared them a little when I lit the forge...poof!)

I guess what I am trying to say is lets not over-think Cruforge V, the hard work has been done by a bunch of metal minded Phd's, get the Spec sheet and trust it. Tweak it if you like and make it yours, but we are not starting from scratch with mystery steel. It is good, clean, engineered bladesmithing steel!

Dan
 
I have tested oil from the local heat treater, out of their bulk storage, don't know what it is, but its pretty fast. Also Parks, and texaco, and all work fine. Dr Batson tested a few others. Most common commercial quenching oil will work.

dan
 
Dan,

Do you know if Jim Bastson and others working with Cru Forge V developement have put out their information? If so, where?

Mike
 
Dan, thank you for posting this information. Sorry if this has been posted somewhere before, but is there a listing of the chemical composition of this steel?
 
............Also Parks, and texaco, and all work fine. Dr Batson tested a few others. Most common commercial quenching oil will work.
dan
When you suggest "Parks", are you suggesting #50 or "AAA"?
I have Texaco "A", but from quite a few years of working with it I know there's a significant difference between room temp "A" and 130 or 150 degree "A"!
Or, are you also suggesting that this stuff may be so user friendly that as long as we quench it in something wet, we won't be far off?
Thanks for your help, Dan.
 
The 3Xnormalize is to reduce grain size .The alloy has V for keeping grain size small .Is the 3Xnormalize necessary ?
 
Mete,
I lack good temp control during forging. Tips heat faster and cool faster than thicker portions of blade, lighting in shop varies and makes reading color tough. I normalize as a quality control, consistancy factor. I have not tested the process without the normalizing stage. In a perfect world, normalizing may not be nessesary, I can't say. You could make a better guess than I.

Dan
 
Repeat:

When you suggest "Parks", are you suggesting #50 or "AAA"?
I have Texaco "A", but from quite a few years of working with it I know there's a significant difference between room temp "A" and 130 or 150 degree "A"!
Or, are you also suggesting that this stuff may be so user friendly that as long as we quench it in something wet, we won't be far off?
Thanks for your help, Dan.
 
Mike,
There was so much testing on several different formulations, and revisions made, etc that I would just take the info from the production lot of steel that Crucible published and the close examination of the blade I made from the production melt and sent to them and go from there.

Karl,
I am not aware of any failure to harden with any of the test quenching done in commercial quenching oils.

Dan
 
Karl,
I am not aware of any failure to harden with any of the test quenching done in commercial quenching oils.

Dan

Do you know which 5 quench oils J. Batson used that he successfully got through-hardening with? And the thickness?

Mike
 
Mike, a wide range of oil speeds were tested. The steel was designed to work in all of them. There is no one oil that is the correct one or only one to use. If you have quenching oil in your shop use it. Its that easy.

Dan
 
Last edited:
Mike, a wide range of oil speeds were tested. The steel was designed to work in all of them. There is no one oil that is the correct one or only one to use. If you have quenching oil in your shop use it. Its that easy.

Dan

Dan,

Thanks for that. As much as anything, I'm just looking for data... I like the stuff and I'm curious what the fast/slow range of Jim's (and other's) tests for this steel are.

Do you know what the quench testing criteria were... like 1/4" flat stock or ???

Mike
 
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