My first NICE axe! And some questions...

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Jul 17, 2007
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So I'm just starting to get in to axes and I wanted something I could take with me camping and backpacking. I went with the Wetterlings Bushman because it seemed like the right size and weight. Maybe now I can stop battoning my poor knives. It just arrived in the mail today (from Campsaver.com) and I have to say I am pretty impressed. Feels really good in the hand and the looks of course are stunning. I'm very excited and eager to take this thing out and see what I can do with it.

One thing though, I was under the impression that Wetterlings axes come pretty sharp, no? I wouldn't say the edge on mine came completely blunt, but I can run it across the palm of my hand in a sawing motion without fear of it cutting me. Basically, its not sharp. Again, I'm just getting in to axes so I don't know if that is standard or not. What do you guys say?

Also, what do you guys think of the grain on the wood? Here's some photos of my new baby. Thanks fellas.

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The axe should be able to shave the hair off your arm...it needs some love. Watch a couple YouTube videos and read some Google search action on "how to sharpen an axe" and then head down to your old pawn shop, antique store, or flea market and pick up some good quality bastard files. The new ones you get at lows or Home Depot are made in Mexico and won't be tough enough to remove metal from your new axe.

The grain looks decent. It doesn't run perfectly up and down but it's mostly straight and the handle is on the shorter side. You should t have any issues with it. If you ever have to replace the handle you can search for a handle with straighter grain, but what you have on there is good.
 
It looks good and the grain is fine. Your ax should be as sharp as your knife but with a more obtuse angle on the edge. Maybe start with 45 degrees inclusive and adjust to fit your preference.
 
Just hit it with one of those coarse/fine sharpening stones. You can "scrub" the edge with some honing oil on the stone and it will sharpen it right up as long as the bevels are good. I would avoid the files unless the bevels need to be reduced (which they shouldn't on that axe), as they remove a lot of metal (which isn;t needed unless the bevels are too thick). I would say a little oil and a stone will have that shaving sharp in about 10 minutes. Then if you want it scary sharp, hit it with a ceramic stone and strop.
 
Not that you can't get a good Mexican-made file, though, right? I mean there's soft steel made up there in the US.

Zieg
 
Nothing against being made in Mexico...that's just where the ones I bought from lows were made....Nicholson I believe. Metal was so soft my axe was removing the cuts on the file.
 
That axe is GTG - grain is nearly ideal. On the one side a single growth ring runs the entire length of the handle and that's as good as it gets (of course straight grain is easier to come by on a shorter handle but beside the point). Rings per inch, for whatever it is worth, look well within what is/was considered ideal. Sharpen, proceed to winning.
 
Okay guys thanks for all your input. Instead of a file or stones, would you guys recommend using a belt sander to sharpen my axe? I only ask because I have a Ken Onion Works Sharp and I get pretty good results with that thing on my knives. Never been that great with stones. I'm not sure what angle I should set it at though. Someone mentioned a 45 inclusive angle which would be 22.5 each side. Isn't that a little thin for an axe?

Thanks again for all your replies gentlemen. This axe forum is quickly becoming my favorite place on Bladeforums.
 
Okay guys thanks for all your input. Instead of a file or stones, would you guys recommend using a belt sander to sharpen my axe? I only ask because I have a Ken Onion Works Sharp and I get pretty good results with that thing on my knives. Never been that great with stones. I'm not sure what angle I should set it at though. Someone mentioned a 45 inclusive angle which would be 22.5 each side. Isn't that a little thin for an axe?

Thanks again for all your replies gentlemen. This axe forum is quickly becoming my favorite place on Bladeforums.
I think a belt grinder is the way to go. I have a kmg and I love it. Still have to know how to use a file and a stone for when you're not in the garage, but I think a grinder is hands down the best tool for sharpening. I do most of my work on a slack belt by hand. I only use the platen when I need to thin out cheeks and remove large amounts of material.

The axe forum is my new favorite place too. I've got a real problem with this axe obsession/addiction
 
The grain is good. It should be sharp. At least 'cut you bad' sharp if not shaving sharp (which it should be). I usually start with a file but maybe that axe doesn't need one. Hard to say without a close look at the bevel. Honing will take care of the edge if the bevels are decent.
 
Okay guys thanks for all your input. Instead of a file or stones, would you guys recommend using a belt sander to sharpen my axe? I only ask because I have a Ken Onion Works Sharp and I get pretty good results with that thing on my knives. Never been that great with stones. I'm not sure what angle I should set it at though. Someone mentioned a 45 inclusive angle which would be 22.5 each side. Isn't that a little thin for an axe?QUOTE]

I find that it is easier to increase the inclusive angle of the edge than it is to thin it out. If the edge starts to chip or roll you can always increase the angle.
 
Hey Bud, most of the time a typical axe is going to come with the right angle on the blade edge already. All you need to do is grab a Circular sanding stone on Amazon for $8 (it gives you more control, and is easier to pack) and just hone in on the bevel that's already there. Please dear god dont take a power tool to that bit. Unles you have a chip or a damaged head stick with the stone with a little honing oil. You will quickly get use to the stone and future sharpening will be super quick. Happy Camping-The Axe Guys.
 
Powered sharpening comes with its own set of concerns. There is a lot more metal to an axe thus greater potential to generate excessive heat.

As the others have said, use a stone as the bevel should be fine.
 
Thanks fellas, you guys rock. I'm going to take your advice and stick with either a file or round stone.
 
Well hell boys this whole axe thing is addicting. Today the wife and I took to a city here in northern California known for its upscale boutiques so she could do some shopping and lo and behold what do I find downtown? A weird little shop that sells custom bicycles and...axes! Strange combo I know but they carried both Wetterlings and Gransfors Bruks and I even saw a few Council Velvicuts. Long story short, I walked out of there with a brand new GB Wildlife hatchet and I haven't even used my Bushman axe yet! Figured it would be good for longer backpacking trips where the Bushman might be a bit too heavy.

Anyway, this place was actually pretty neat and the guys there offered to treat the handle of my axe for free so I said why not. What they did was brush the entire length with goopy pine tar then drove it (very carefully) in to the handle with a propane flame. After that they rubbed the finished handle with beeswax and burnished it in with a cork. They told me pine tar is an excellent wood preservative and that the Swedes have used it for centuries including on the base of their cross-country skis back when they were made of wood. I think it looks pretty good to be honest and it kinda improved the grip a little bit with a very slight tacky feeling.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKJhhz-643k
I am sure everyone has his favourite, but this one is mine. It'll work well on both your GB and your Wetterlings. The grain looks good! My GB was sharp when I got it, but not arm shaving sharp. A two sided sharpening stone like the one in the video will work well. I have a Wetterlings puck with a different grit on either side. Go to an antique store and get yourself an old razor strop for $10-$15. I use mine all the time. Those axes look great! Nice for your first purchases!
 
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