My first vintage Randall. What have I got?

[cgt4570]

I've always wanted a vintage Randall that I could use and enjoy while hunting and camping without ruining a fine collectible. I didn't want a brand new production knife. Just got this one from auction last night. I probably paid too much based on condition ($425) and could have bought a shiny new one for the same or less, but that wasn't what I wanted.
Now I have a bunch of questions for the Randall experts!
-Best guess as to year of production?
-I think it's a Model 4 Big Game and skinner? Blade measures right at 6". Handle is stag. Can you verify?
-How do I best preserve the sheath leather?
-Should I get a new production sheath from Randall and shelf the original?
-Should I send it to Randall for cleanup or should I work the scratches from poor sharpening attempts out of the blade myself?
Thanks for any help and insight!
(

 

[cut_n_run]

Nice knife!

-Best guess as to year of production?
My guess is the 1960’s. (1) Handle has 7 spacers, typical of that era; (2) stag handles before 1960 had a brass pin; (3) I bought a couple of Randall knives new back then, and they have long, shallow choils similar to your knife.

-I think it's a Model 4 Big Game and skinner? Blade measures right at 6". Handle is stag. Can you verify?
Yes.

-How do I best preserve the sheath leather?
The maker of Randall Knives sheath once posted, “Get rid of mold on leather by killing it with a 50-50 mixture of denatured alcohol and water, what we [Sullivan’s] use; let it dry COMPLETELY, then use a product like Lexol or a good leather conditioner, or just use neatsfoot oil. The leather will darken no matter what you use, but it is better than losing the sheath to mold."

-Should I get a new production sheath from Randall and shelf the original?
Yes, if you don’t mind spending around $60 for a Model A sheath, plus these costs: shipping your knife to Randall for fitting the sheath; any insurance you may want to add; return shipping. (The sheath will be stamped with an "R" for "replacement.) Using the replacement sheath will prevent the original sheath from deteriorating further from use.

-Should I send it to Randall for cleanup or should I work the scratches from poor sharpening attempts out of the blade myself?
Your choice. I have sent knives to Randall for refurbishing and was very satisfied with the results.

(Any experts out there, please correct any errors I may have made.)

-Steve

 

[cgt4570]

Thank you so much Steve!

 

[Melvin-Purvis]

Early 1960's, all else is correct. Valued fairly, it's only original once, use as intended. The refinishing you speak of would, IMO, be a waste of money in that it would likely devalue the knife. It's a user, have fun, play with it, use it...

 

[Skevlar]

~

Based on your 1st. sentence of original post would Strongly advise taking 'M-P's' advice above !
It's a user but also a Highly desirable example and I'd be
Extremely Careful with what
to use for preserving your Fine
50+ yr. Randall ! Some aficionado's use mineral oil on
the Stag, others Lemon Oil. Personally would try Lemon 1st.
If you want to clean up the scratches on the blade be Very Careful not to disturb the 'Grind Lines' as it might Look nicer polished but $ value is decreased
and grind lines are like the right
'Fingerprints' to knowledgeable collectors and the True and few Real experts that have a museum curators skill & knowledge.
"Ren Wax" seems to be the experts choice for protecting the blade. (Renaissance Wax) If you use Any type of oil on the sheath it should be very sparingly !
Neatsfoot Oil is OK but should be the Pure Oil, Don't use Neatsfoot Compound. Seemingly more used and popular is Obenauf's Leather Oil.