My journey begins. Step 1 - Rust Removal.

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KiwiBloke

Joined
Oct 2, 2018
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Hey guys so over the past couple of months I have been acquiring some vintage axes to restore/tidy up. I have been very busy up until now and can finally start to put some work in; in fact over the next 8 weeks I will be able to put a lot of work in until I am re-inundated with my usual life stuff.

I would like to post photos of my progress and ask questions as I go - I know a lot of you are kind souled axe men who are more than happy to share your wealth of knowledge to beginners (whether that is for my benefit or for the axe's is yet unconfirmed).

I want to begin by asking about rust removal of axe heads.

I have several heads like this Kelly TT Flint Edge. It is not quite a built up flakey brown rust it is more of a black coating (almost looks like someone has taken a paint brush with black on it and painted it over).

Not sure if this was true rust or not I took some metal polish and a rag to it but without much improvement.

r90KnxM.jpg


Another example with a more extreme level of black rust is my latest acquisition a Michigan Kelly Perfect..

TsxQeRX.jpg


I believe this is more than just a dark patina.. I want to remove it as it seems the rust is beginning to build up and start to pit the head.

I have several heads like the first picture, a couple like the second and a couple far worse with actual brown rust all over it. Please tell me how I should go about removing axe head rust. I got some sand paper and started at it by hand but the results were poor at best; sore hands, clogged paper, not a drastic change on the axe head.

Most of my axes/hatchets are hung so for information's sake please don't recommend vinegar bath as I won't be submerging them and I won't be taking the heads off for it; I will be trying my hand at my first hangings on the others shortly after which I will update you with pictures as we go.

So, I have a power drill..are we talking brass cup here? - (note: my hardware stores only seem to have brass coated steel cup brushes..could this do more damage than good?).

All comments and recommendations welcomed with open arms.

THANK YOU AXE MEN! More pictures of everything I have to come ASAP.
 
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When I first started restoring axes, I always did the vinegar bath to remove rust, but it always left the head a dull grey, and I lost the nice patina. Now, I almost never do that. I use the angle grinder with the wire wheel to remove any unwanted business on the head. It leaves a much nicer finish.
 
I do not have an angel grinder only a power drill. So a brass wire brush at the end of a drill you would suggest? I am wondering what the difference of the final result would be between a head that has a strange black color type rust versus actual rust. Would it be too harsh on the head in pic 1? Also how about the makers mark if it is faint as it is am I at risk of further removing it?
 
I also use a power drill with a brass wire brush. Works fine! Just wear eye, ear and hand protection.

I try to spare the haft close to the head by wrapping it with some thin metal sheet - or whatever is less impressed by your brush.

I know you won't believe me but you'll be amazed to see how much the maker's mark will pop out once you hit it with the brush.

I've found sometimes red rust uner a black layer. Red rust is bad, but won't dissolve an axe in a few years. (Just brush a portion near the edge and you'll get a pretty good idea...you'll anyway take away "lots" of metal if the axe is convex-cheeked and hasn't been sharpened in a while; try there.) Black rust, on its own, is your friend (doesn't weaken the metal, it offers corrosion resistance).
 
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I, for one, would hit the first head, and leave the second one as it is, with a big smile on my face. Excellent patina there. I'd be curious probably about what's going on nearer the edge, where the pitting occurred. Could be nothing but black rust. If you end up removing more of the patina than you wanted...hey. I love one, but I'm not a member of some cult worshiping it. I anyway keep my stuff well oiled, so, in the end: whatever. I may feel like making a head shinier (not polished) than another one. I used my own money to acquire it, I treat it right, more power to me. Whatever tickles your fancy.

I know you asked for axemen to answer, I am not one, but I'm awake at this our while most Us guys are soundly asleep and I've cleaned up a head or two.

Hey. Wear some god, sturdy old jeans/work pants. You don't want that brush to slip. (Don't ask me how I know.)
 
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Moonw said:
I know you asked for axemen to answer, I am not one, but I'm awake at this our while most Us guys are soundly asleep and I've cleaned up a head or two.
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Moonw I have found your posts to be very useful so far and have always enjoyed reading what you have to say so thank you! Plenty of good advice especially about safety stuff. here I was thinking all about the axe whereas I should have also been thinking about myself! Will be wearing two pairs of jeans thanks ;) haha
 
You're very kind. I just remember what concerns I had / stuff that bit me when I first started - very excited, too.

Don't lean too much on that power drill. Use more passes, rather than pressure. The steel can also get hot, if you insist too much in an area (and burn your gloveless hands). (Your final result needs not be perfect.) Always mind any wires that have detached and throw them away if you can. Forgotten, they will poke through your flip flops (or worse...btw do not wear flip flops while working on axes or using them:p) and ruin your day. Or someone else's. I'd prefer to work on a concrete surface (more on this below).

Forgot to mention: put away any kids, pets, before working on such projects. Make sure your work area is clean. Believe me, the drill WILL grab that rag you've forgotten. I very much recommend you raise all those particles outside (a garage will work, not your room).

And silly me: rule no. 1 at last - get that axe fixed well in/ by something (vice etc.) before working on it. Keep in mind that the steel other places than on the edge will be soft, so either use soft jaws or place something as a cushion. Not a dangling rag :D.
 
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S Square_peg may I ask your opinion on the pitting in my second picture the Kelly Perfect. Like Moonw said it is a lovely patina but if I can stop further damage to the head and have it for more years as a result I’d happily remove the entire patina and start again. Thank you
 
Thanks M Moonw heaps of very helpful and thoughtful advice there. My last job is Tuesday so brush starts spinning Wednesday! Will post photos that night of my results.

There is a small chip in the kelly perfect bit that I want to ask about filing technique before I start at it just guessing. You can see it in the photo but it’s actually more prominent when you look at it in person. I will take better photos tonight
 
Man, I'm not sure I would do anything to those two axe heads above. I think they look pretty great as is.

If for whatever reason you have an axe head that you want perfectly cleared of all rust all together, evaporust is really great. I've used both it and vinegar and evaporust worked better - at least for me - and smells better, I hate the smell of vinegar.
 
^ The big Kelly sure does look nice but I am worried about the pitting, if I can reduce the risk of further pitting and damaging the head I am more than happy to take off the entire patina for it.

Must be personal preference then as the first one I think looks no where as nice dirty then when it is gleaming and shining ;)
 
KiwiBloke said:
S Square_peg may I ask your opinion on the pitting in my second picture the Kelly Perfect. Like Moonw said it is a lovely patina but if I can stop further damage to the head and have it for more years as a result I’d happily remove the entire patina and start again. Thank you
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Oiling it will prevent further damage.

When a brass cup (or brass over steel cup) won't remove stubborn rust I move to a knotted wire cup brush. These are more aggressive and can remove some patina. But often it's worth to get that stubborn rust off. I recently had one where even the knotted wire cup wouldn't clean it. I escalated a worn or fine flap disc, using care to concentrate on the spots and trying to leave as much patina as possible. What's left inside the pitting is just oiled and forgotten.
 
KiwiBloke said:
^ The big Kelly sure does look nice but I am worried about the pitting, if I can reduce the risk of further pitting and damaging the head I am more than happy to take off the entire patina for it.

Must be personal preference then as the first one I think looks no where as nice dirty then when it is gleaming and shining ;)
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I just recently posted a clean-up of an axe in very similar condition as your Kelly Michigan.

What Did You Sharpen Today?
 
Oh wonderful thanks for that mate! Explains a lot I am all good to go will post before and afters on Wednesday. I would love to get some advice about filing back a chip on the bit but the proud part of the handle and the wedge are currently sitting in BLO so will take some close ups tomorrow once that's done. I started filing it back and began to be surprised/concerned about how much metal I actually needed to take off the whole bit just to remove it so decided to stop and ask for advice. Will post tomorrow. Thank you for your help!! Big respect.
 
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