Recommendation? My Next Cold Steel?

Cops seem to take in a lot of factors pretty fast. I wouldn't want "Broken Skull" you be one of those factors.

For the same reason, I don't wear Joe Rocket motorcycle gear. ;-)
 
I recommend the American Lawman. I bought a S35VN version last month, and I couldn't be happier. I held off on the AL for a long time because of critiques regarding the thin handle. I wear an XL glove, and in my opinion the handle is very comfortable. Besides that, I'm willing to trade some feel-in-hand for improved feel-in-pocket.
 
Smaug said:
Thanks for the kind words.
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Thanks.....I think. You got Code 4's back on my mind from this thread, and know I just bought a drop point fully serrated in XHP. I now have 3 Code 4's thanks to you.
 
Mitchell Knives said:
I wish Cold Steel would make a G10 handled version of the Code 4.
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Me too. That would be a nice knife and worth a few extra dollars. It would compete with the Manix2, the Griptilian, and maybe the PM2.
Awwwk! Did I just say the PM2?
 
This backlock with heavy blade and no detent is good at doing the following

I can do it with other knives, but this one is the easiest and you can do it very short and it looks like just wrist.
 
Well you could do this. :) A bit weird I guess. I added a thin G-10 overlay and then textured for improved grip. It's glued with G Flex epoxy.
BeXqlD6l.jpg

NjNZ6Yfl.jpg
 
Sergeua said:
This backlock with heavy blade and no detent is good at doing the following

I can do it with other knives, but this one is the easiest and you can do it very short and it looks like just wrist.
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I've been using that inertia opening for over 20 years. Even taught it to quite a few people because of its economy of motion, and when done correctly, minimum amount of space required ... it can be done almost belly to belly with no telegraphing the movement if the closed knife is already in your hand. When first learning it, hold the knife between your fingers with your palm down, then while anchoring the knife's pivot on or near your centerline, rotate the handle around the pivot to the palm up position with a snap. Palm down to palm up, with the pivot anchored in space. It's a good one to know and easy to do with proper practice.
 
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Mike Sastre said:
I've been using that inertia opening for over 20 years. Even taught it to quite a few people because of its economy of motion, and when done correctly, minimum amount of space required ... it can be done almost belly to belly with no telegraphing the movement if the closed knife is already in your hand. When first learning it, hold the knife between your fingers with your palm down, then while anchoring the knife's pivot on or near your centerline, rotate the handle around the pivot to the palm up position with a snap. Palm down to palm up, with the pivot anchored in space. It's a good one to know and easy to do with proper practice.
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I learned this one after understanding how to do it with just holding it with your fingers.
Its cool because you transfer the force into it in a way that is similar to cracking of a whip. You gotta have a certain level of relaxation for it so that the kinetic chain works properly. Tension doesn't help you much here.
The exaggerated elbow I showed is to help with the learning process, but also when you take folder out of pocket the elbow is already in this cocked position and by dropping it down you can potentially generate more force to reliably open under possible stress and whatnot.
 
Sergeua said:
I learned this one after understanding how to do it with just holding it with your fingers.
Its cool because you transfer the force into it in a way that is similar to cracking of a whip. You gotta have a certain level of relaxation for it so that the kinetic chain works properly. Tension doesn't help you much here.
The exaggerated elbow I showed is to help with the learning process, but also when you take folder out of pocket the elbow is already in this cocked position and by dropping it down you can potentially generate more force to reliably open under possible stress and whatnot.
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While all that is true, and it does help when learning, there are times when you want a clandestine draw that does not elevate the elbow, culminating in a deploying drawstroke and telegraphing intent. For those "wait and see but be ready" times, it can all be done with the wrist. You never want to escalate a situation if you don't have to.
 
AF said:
Well you could do this. :) A bit weird I guess. I added a thin G-10 overlay and then textured for improved grip. It's glued with G Flex epoxy.
BeXqlD6l.jpg

NjNZ6Yfl.jpg
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:) Neato ! Beyond my skills , but I like it . :thumbsup::thumbsup: I mostly just avoid non-grippy handles , because my mods ain't so pretty . :(
 
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A code 4 with either a g-10 handles or a thicker aluminum handle with g-10 inlay
 
AF said:
Well you could do this. :) A bit weird I guess. I added a thin G-10 overlay and then textured for improved grip. It's glued with G Flex epoxy.
BeXqlD6l.jpg

NjNZ6Yfl.jpg
Click to expand...
Nicer than my grip tape on both sides. But I still get a much better grip with no significant increase in width.
 
My most recent CS purchases have been the Luzon in both 4" and 6" versions; a 3.5" Spartan; and the Grik. Of these the Grik is the one that amazes me.

What I'd LIKE to see from CS is a return to the compact handle original Medium Voyager but with a Tri Ad lock. The handles on the most recent version of the Medium Voyager are oversized over-kill on what started out as a handy travel knife. A lot of security takes handle-size as well as blade-size into account in judging whether a pocket knife is acceptable for carry or not.
 
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