Naginata and Yari shaft

[Blackmage4001]

I was wondering would anyone be able to direct me to where I could possibly have a shaft for my naginata and yari ordered?

I currently have both a modern made naginata and yari that need a shaft, would it also be possible to have the shaft be made in aluminum?

Thanks!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I make my own out of ash wood. You are going to have to fit it to the blades/tangs anyway.

You could check placed like Shadows of Leaves and Bugei and see if any sell bank shafts.

 

[A.McPherson]

Also if you do decide to make your own, you can buy “heavy duty closet shafts” from Lowe’s, if you don’t care about traditional construction. They are 1 1/2”-2” spliced oak shafts, all you’d have to do is reduce the diameter a bit for yari, and make it kinda apple-seed in cross section for the naginata...

they sell them in pretty obscene lengths too, I just picked up an 8 foot one I plan to make into a yari, after I make the blade. Someday.

 

[Blackmage4001]

Also if you do decide to make your own, you can buy “heavy duty closet shafts” from Lowe’s, if you don’t care about traditional construction. They are 1 1/2”-2” spliced oak shafts, all you’d have to do is reduce the diameter a bit for yari, and make it kinda apple-seed in cross section for the naginata...

they sell them in pretty obscene lengths too, I just picked up an 8 foot one I plan to make into a yari, after I make the blade. Someday.

I have considered doing that, my concern consists mostly on getting the proper fittings for the shaft. And I do also want it lacquered.

As well would a shaft made of aluminum be a viable option?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

If you want a ninja version, make it out of anything.
If you want a traditional shaft it should be wood, preferably ho, aspen, or ash. You can get square cut slices off a 6/4 plank and quickly carve them down with a draw knife ... or just grind them round on a 36 grit belt. The end for the naginata will need to be split and fitted to the blade nakago. The yari end will likely need a hole for the tang and be tapered to fit the socket.

Here are some old threads of mine on working on a naginata. Look at the photos ( click on them for larger images) and you will see how the assembly works. There are other way to do it, this is just how I did it.:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/naginata-heading-for-ashokan.584085/
Tsuka ( shaft) construction - (page 7 last four posts):
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the-ashokan-pole-arm-challenge.562155/page-7

 

[A.McPherson]

Are you planning on using it? In training or whatever?
If so I’d shy away from aluminum, it pretty soft and pliable in the easy to get sizes and won’t hold up to the impacts of training.

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith , do you have any resources on yari blade shapes, measurements construction elements etc?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

IIRC, I posted some links in those threads I just listed . I'll look around later, but with Seder today and Easter tomorrow, it may be a few days.

 

[Blackmage4001]

Are you planning on using it? In training or whatever?
If so I’d shy away from aluminum, it pretty soft and pliable in the easy to get sizes and won’t hold up to the impacts of training.

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith , do you have any resources on yari blade shapes, measurements construction elements etc?

I was planning on using them for martial arts practice, along with using them on targets for both stabbing and slashing.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

There are a lot of suitable grades of Aluminum, maybe some thick wall 6061 would do the trick. I would prefer wood for the slight bit of flex it has.

 

[Blackmage4001]

Just an update, so I decided to go ahead with using ashwood as a shaft and ordered one for my yari, but I need a shaft with a wider diameter than what i've seen available. (I've only found ashwood poles with a diameter of only 1 1/4 inches, I need at least a 1 1/2 inch diamater shaft for the naginata)

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Get a 6/4 or 8/4 plank of ash from a good lumber yard and have it ripped into square sticks. Make them round with hand tools or power grinders. taper and fit as needed.

 

[A.McPherson]

Hey Stacy, did you find those resources about construction techniques and fittings for yari?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

There is a book ( which is out on loan to another maker) that IIRC, is called Antique Swords and Weapons, or something like that. It has info with dimensions and great photos of everything from African spears and swords, to jap[anise weaponry, to all the European and US swords and lances.

My last Naginata was make as a take down weapon that would fit in a sword bag Besides the blades being removed, the shaft was dovetailed together under the mid-shaft wrap. The hammered copper collars reinforced the blade tangs as well as the shaft center joint..
The build and info was in threads a few years back, Here is one of them:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/naginata-heading-for-ashokan.584085/

Some yari and related threads:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/yari-japanese-style-spear.1129838/
​

Some good photos of naginata blades:
http://yakiba.com/Naginata_Naotane.htm
http://yakiba.com/Nag_Kanemitsu.htm
http://yakiba.com/Nag_Masamori.htm

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

OK, I'm finding more photos and info:

NAGINATA - by Stacy Apelt, AKA-Bladsmth
Nibu Tsuka - Two piece handle, made from ash. Pegged together and bound in silk.
Muromachi Naginata Zukuri - Muromachi style curved naginata blade, of the type used from AD1336 - 1573. 1300 layer Damascus named “13 Warrior”. Every 13th layer is 52100. Sharpened on ha (edge) and mune (spine). The blade has a marui (rounded) kissaki (point). Signed on the nakago (tang). Hand forged.
Mekugi - Pegs made from oak and bamboo. Installed and removed with a mekuginuki (peg hammer). They hold the blades in place.
San-dan maki - Pole wrapping done in silk ito.
Semegane - Metal bands of hammered copper.
Kama Yari Ishizuki - Spear point pommel. Made in 224 layer Damascus. Sharpened on mune and ha. The shape is kama yari (sickel spear).
Fuchi - Bolster collar, hammered copper.
Tsuba - Guard made in Damascus.
Seppa - Spacer washer ,hammered copper.
Habaki - Blade collar, hammered copper.
Saya - Sheaths.
Sageo - Silk cord tied in a fancy knot. This cord would have been untied to carry the naginata on ones back or under the arm.

Some shots of the shaft in assembly and fitting of the blades and joint: