Naginata question

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Sep 28, 2005
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Does anybody have a site or instructions on how Naginata's are placed on the haft?? I have many sword tutorials but nothing I can find for Naginata. I understand that they were done like katana's however I am not sure how they hollowed out the shaft and made sure it was a tight fit without having 2 halves and handle wrap.
Thanks for anything!!
 
I'm no expert but I'd think that they would have to be two halves like the swords. Each half would be carved to fit the tang tightly. It's the only way I can think of it being done but I'm not sure. I'm curious too.
 
It is my understanding that the oval shaft was split and the red hot tang was run in repeatedly to make a fitted seat. The blade was then laced in place with strong ito or rawhide ( and probably rice glue).The tsuba was fitted firmly against the fuchi (the fuchi also locks the split tight together).I would think two or three mekugi were used.The ishizuki goes on the other end of the shaft.

I would think the smith made a working nakago of similar shape to the naginata blade's nakago and used it to form the socket. A long hooked scraper (with the hook shaped like the nakago cross section)would be used to clean up the socket after each burn.

An easier method for a modern non-battle naginata (and possibly still historical correct) would be to split the shaft and then cut into it to release one half. Make the cut slightly of center by the thickness of the nakago, separating the thinner piece. Inlet the shaft (thicker) piece for the nakago seat, and add shims (assuming you made the nakago slightly diamond shaped) on the top to make the separated piece fit down tight. Once laced in it should be strong.This is pretty much like doing a tsuka for a katana.

If you are planning on permanently mounting the blade, just make a good seat and use a strong adhesive like Acra-glass. It should be quite strong when dry.

Some naginata pictures I have seen looked like they were bound with rattan.

Hope this helps - Stacy
 
the shaft was split and then carved out just like for the swords. the nakago for a naginata is almost as lond as the blade and some of the ones I looked at in Japan were longer than the blade. the shaft was glued back together with rice glue after fitting was done and then decorative metal bands fitted over the outside to ensure everything stayed together.I have a picture of a very nice original from the era of the mongolian invasions. if someone would like to post them here send me an email.
 
I would imagine that different makers used different techniques. There are not many original shafts left to study. I have a naginata with a blade made in the 1600s. The pole could have been from the same era as it appears to be the same age and it is original to the blade. The wood has shrunk just enough to make the metal rings come a bit loose. Having said that I have looked at the pole and its construction many times and I am still wondering how it was make. There is no split in the wood. The fit is otherwise tight and precise to the blade's nakago. I would imagine that burning the tang in and/or scraping with tools was the way this particular one was made.
 
Jesus is right. I own several Naginata and non have been split. I can't remember the specific book I read but as I can recall the haft is cored out with several different implements that are heated and used to create the cavity. I would think that if you are creating this for a show piece then splitting it would be ok. But if this is to be a battle ready weapon then structural integrity would be a major factor in splitting it. If I can find the book that illistrates this I will post the name or photo copy the pic's and post them.
 
Like Jesus said there were most likely more than one way that this was done. I based my description on a little pictorial that i saw in a meseum in Japan. Jesus, How long is the nakago on you naginata? yours too Kvolle.
 
Burke531,
Varies from one to the other. The longest is 18". The shortest is 12". I have seen those that were split and I know that some makers make them this way. I own seven and of the seven I use two on a regular basis. If they are split I can't tell. After eight years of using them for tamashigiri I would think that what ever they used to connect the two halves together would be distressed to some degree or the constant jaring would show a crack. No expert on making them, just a collector and practitioner. I can't begin to tell you how they carve it out. I have tried and failed more times than I'll admit. The one that I did try to make, I ended up splitting as you described. I won't use it though. Fear of blade flying back at me. Not a pleasant thought.
 
Thanks for the replies and sorry about the late reply. I do want it functional, I know that it won't see battle but why go through all of the effort for something less than optimal. I was probably going to try the carved out shaft but wanted better advice. The blank is 17" blade and 9" tang, i am planning on having some sort of reinfocing bands on the ash shaft that I have reserved for it. Not optimal but I am working with what I have on hand for my first try (1/4" O1 BTW).
 
Stephanfowler, for the two that I use I would agree with you because they are modern, but wouldn't you think that the material that the glues is bonded to, if weaker would show signs of stress? Not disagreeing with your point but still find it highly unlikely that after hard use it would fail to show some signs of distress at the steam. As far as older Naginata rice glue was used as the bonding agent. This over time, given use, abient temperatures, sun light and moisture would surely break down even the best rice glue.
 
Rice glue is only useful as a temporary bond, that was the reason for the rayskin and ito wrap, i have several antique handles, NONE were "bonded" at the seam.
 
I guess that temporary is relative. I have an original sword from between 1670 and 1698 whose tsuka and saya were most proably glued using rice glue. 300+ plus years is pretty much permantly temporary. even if it has been redone it hasn't been in the last hundred years or so. I also have some old tsuka that have no ito or same that shows that there was only same panels under the ito and not complete wraps. In japan new tsuka are inlaid with panels of same only on the sides where it will show through the ito wrappings. Given that sword making in Japan is so traditional and makers are afforded no leway in the ways and traditions of sword making. I would say that they have been done this way for a long time.
 
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