Has anyone used some or all of these? How did they compare sharpening your high carbide steels? I have used the DMTs for about 10 years, stopping at the EF plate. I've also got some other Japanese waterstones, but im getting into more high carbide steels, and I want the best edge possible. I'm wondering which 3k diamond waterstone would be best between Naniwa and JKI. Are the 3k diamond waterstones noticeably better than a DMT EEF at sharpening high carbide steels?
Naniwa diamond vs JKI diamond vs DMT
- Thread starter Gil P.
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This is a learning process. Diamond is a very hard wear resistant material .large and new diamonds should not be pushed as the diamonds tend to be pulled out. don't be in a hurry, let the diamond do the work. Consider the blade material and use. I prefer a fine serrated edge for things like my S35VN . It's easy with diamonds !
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DeadboxHero
DeadboxHero
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Well, Jon Broida is one of the top freehand guys in the world
He doesn't currently offer a 3k diamond yet.
Only the 1k, 6k combo with resin bonding.
He told me on the phone his product offers a little more feedback and impoved finish then the Naniwas.
I haven't tried them.
I own the Naniwa 800, 3k resin diamond.
The advantage over coated abrasives is a better finish, more longevity to the stone and better for push cutting and slightly crisper edges.
*Disclaimer, they don't make up for any lack of sharpening experience or ability. They only enhance your experience with what you have.
He doesn't currently offer a 3k diamond yet.
Only the 1k, 6k combo with resin bonding.
He told me on the phone his product offers a little more feedback and impoved finish then the Naniwas.
I haven't tried them.
I own the Naniwa 800, 3k resin diamond.
The advantage over coated abrasives is a better finish, more longevity to the stone and better for push cutting and slightly crisper edges.
*Disclaimer, they don't make up for any lack of sharpening experience or ability. They only enhance your experience with what you have.
Thanks,
I don't know why I wrote that JKI had a 3k,ive been looking at the 6k for the last few days
I can get very good edges off my DMT EF, but I was interested to see how much better they could be with a higher grit diamond waterstone.
I've seen a lot of your videos, I've learned a lot from them. One day I'll get that hair whittling edge!
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Yeah bro, I'll be the first to tell you you don't need that for hair whittling. Hair whittling is all about angle control, burr formation and removal, and apex formation.
Also,
Don't hold too high of and angle but don't got so low that the knife is all scuffed on the side and looks ridiculous.
Just get a leather strop with some 1um diamond spray. I don't like the emulsions, makes the leather too stiff.
The Stropping will only enhance a great edge, it doesn't create.
So work on your stone game, get a great edge then just to strop, BOOM sharp.
Also the EEF is not a stand alone stone. Needs the edge brought up very sharp on the Fine. Then you're just trying not to screw up the edge on the EEF with angle variation or too much pressure.
Good luck
Also,
Don't hold too high of and angle but don't got so low that the knife is all scuffed on the side and looks ridiculous.
Just get a leather strop with some 1um diamond spray. I don't like the emulsions, makes the leather too stiff.
The Stropping will only enhance a great edge, it doesn't create.
So work on your stone game, get a great edge then just to strop, BOOM sharp.
Also the EEF is not a stand alone stone. Needs the edge brought up very sharp on the Fine. Then you're just trying not to screw up the edge on the EEF with angle variation or too much pressure.
Good luck
Thanks,
I don't know why I wrote that JKI had a 3k,ive been looking at the 6k for the last few days
I can get very good edges off my DMT EF, but I was interested to see how much better they could be with a higher grit diamond waterstone.
I've seen a lot of your videos, I've learned a lot from them. One day I'll get that hair whittling edge!
I start on the DMT fine and finish on the extra fine. I do have one knife that's all scratched up on the blade and looks ridiculous though haha. It's a bark river aurora, it came with super fat geometry, I thinned it down some with the DMT coarse. Now it cuts a lot better, especially when making feathersticks. I've wondered about just putting a V edge on it, but wouldn't the edge angle would get steeper than it is now with the convex? I don't want a steeper edge angle.
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I would like to try that with the diamond sprays, I'm using the emulsion type now.
For those of you who use the diamond sprays, What leather type has worked best for you? Nappy or smooth? The emulsion type has been working well for me, but if the diamond sprays are better, I would like to try them.
The block strop I have has white, green, diamond spray and smooth leather on it. I used a diamond paste in a syringe long time ago that I didn't care for. It's handy to have around. If you paste it with something you don't like you can sand it out and use something else.