Review Naniwa Sharpening Series Stones (Pic Intensive)

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Apr 15, 2014
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I wanted to share my thoughts on these stones, as it is difficult to find any information on them. All the posts seem to reference the Super Stones, of which these are very much not. Those stones were criticized for being soft; the Sharpening Series is anything but.

The stones in this series I have are the 220, 400, 1000, 3000, 8000, and the stratospheric 12,000.
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The vehicle in which we are going to take this high speed ride is the 451 BLF from Freeman Outdoor, a savage beast of a knife.

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First up is the 220. It is a very hard stone. I still prefer diamond plates for bevel setting, but the Naniwa SS 220 is absolutely hard enough to define a bevel without scratching the crap out of your blade.

And look at this: even at 220, zero porosity

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This is the mud after fully and dramatically redefining the bevel. We took 'er back to about 25 degrees inclusive. Zero detectable dishing. Impressive!

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Naturally I'd hop on up to a 1k after a 220, but hey, we got a 400, so let's hit the 400!

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A gorgeous minty green stone!

Again, absolutely zero porosity:

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Working with it, we built up some swarf. Like the 220, this stone is extremely hard.

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The finish off the 400 looked more like a 1000 which I found interesting. The stone also did load a little. It will be useful to have a nagura stone on hand for surface cleaning. Personally, I use a diamond plate and basically flatten a little every time I clean it. Keep the surface fresh and flat!

Time for the 1k!

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Another gorgeous stone. It doesn't come through in the shot, but it is a very nice light blue. It, too, is hard, completely non-porous, surface loads a little, and polishes higher than expected. In fact, this thing polishes like a 4000! Bear in mind, however, that I actively try to use light pressure.

This is off the one thousand stone:

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Now, the lighting makes this look like a near clean mirror, which is overly dramatic. But the polish is without a doubt considerably higher than your average 1000 grit finish. Again, this'll be due to the hardness of the stone and the subsequent burnishing effect caused by using the same abrasive for a longer work period. As the abrasive dulls and breaks down, it will yield a higher polish.

Here is what the surface loading looks like. This is about what it looks like across the entire range of stones. It should really not be considered too bad of a thing that it loads. It is not necessarily good or bad, but merely a usable tool. Cleaning the surface is really no big deal, and the harder binding allows you to achieve very interesting results.

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3000 up next...

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Yep, you guessed it: hard, non-porous, extremely high polish

In fact, this badass polishes like a 6000. Very similar polish to the King 6000

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In the above photo you can see both the absurd level of polish for the grit as well as the characteristic surface loading of these stones.

Time for a little 8000 action. By this point, I am anticipating some serious polish. Let's take a look at this beautiful pastel yellow stone. It doesn't come through in my terrible lighting, but it follows suit being an attractive stone, and certainly one I enjoy using.

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And she puts up an extremely clean mirror. Really, visually, there is not much room for improvement at this point. I don't expect much visual difference after the 12,000, as I don't really see if much more is even possible. That's a wonderful problem to have!

The 12,000 is a nice clean white, and is very enjoyable to use. Absolutely silent. And I'll let you guess what three primary characteristics it has...

Time to make this edge glow in the dark!

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And here we have achieved a polish so clean I could use the 451 BLF as a rearview mirror

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These stones are all completely non-porous splash 'n' go badasses.

The 220 is hard enough to allow you to define a crisp bevel (insomuch as non-diamond hones will permit). It does not wear quickly in the slightest.

The 400 puts up a polish in the 1000 range. It is a great stone. A little slower than other low grits I have used, but not by much. It also has the added benefit of not necessarily requiring a 1k (for me, as I usually only go up to 1k for my EDC's).

The 1000 finishes like a 3000-4000. I also really enjoy using a blue stone lol.

The 3000 finishes like a 6000, and would likely be the stopping point for you kitchen knife guys who like the "polished bite" of 6000 grit stones.

The 8000 has a beautifully clean polish, and if I were to buy the stones again, I would not go any higher than this.

The 12,000 is just overkill in the most refined fashion.

All of the stones surface load, save for the 220 (which surface loads too, but will still break down fast enough [still extremely slowly] for you never to worry about cleaning the surface).

The series can be characterized as polishing above its respective grit ratings. In turn, this will also mean they are not the absolute fastest stones possible. That being said, I did not find them slow in the least.

These are nothing like what the Superstones use to be, according to what I've read. Everyone said soft soft soft, well these are some hard sumbitches.

I love these stones, and if you are considering these and you take the plunge, I don't doubt you will too.
 
Classic Super Stone behavior. The 400 is my favorite of the series. It acts and feels similar to the Sigma Power 400, but finishes with a more polished haze. The SP 400 is slotted in my rotation most of the time as it is sintered versus resin bonded to reduce maintenance. But the Super Stone 400 is certainly a winner :)

Edit: Who makes that sharpening pond in the first image? Or is it even a pond?
 
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Thanks for the review!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I've been thinking of getting the 12000 for my straight razor. I'm currently using a Norton 4000/8000 grit water stone.
Do you think the 12000 is worthwhile for a razor?
 
S35VN sharpened with aluminum oxide abrasive is why the 1000 grit stone produced a 3000-4000 grit finish and the 3k a 6k finish. I would also suspect it is the same reason these stones seem harder and only have mild abrasive release.

I would like to see this redone with a carbon or low alloy stainless. It's what the stones are really designed for.
 
Edit: Who makes that sharpening pond in the first image? Or is it even a pond?

That is the Edge Pro flattening plate. It happens to hold the stone holder perfectly and doesn’t move due to the weight and the rubber outer ring. Works well! Only reason I didn’t use it was because I needed a riser. Otherwise it works well as a pond.

Do you think the 12000 is worthwhile for a razor?

Take my opinion with a grain of salt, but I suspect it would. Although I didn’t take a picture of it, I was able to comfortably shave my face with the 451 off the 12k. I didn’t do my whole face, but it shaved a patch nicely.

Nice even bevels! A short video of your technique would be nice ;)

Sure! I’ll make one up soon. I switch hands. It’s super awkward learning with your off-hand in the beginning, but once you get used to it, due to the fact it’s a mirror of your main-hand, biomechanically, the even bevels tend to produce themselves

Nice review! Felt like I was right there sharpening away.

Thanks for the feedback man! I’m glad you enjoyed it!

S35VN sharpened with aluminum oxide abrasive is why the 1000 grit stone produced a 3000-4000 grit finish and the 3k a 6k finish. I would also suspect it is the same reason these stones seem harder and only have mild abrasive release.

I would like to see this redone with a carbon or low alloy stainless. It's what the stones are really designed for.

Interesting... well, I’ll hit these stones again with some 1095 and some 4116 maybe, or 8cr and post my results. That’ll be within the next few days though
 
Nice even bevels! A short video of your technique would be nice ;)

Alright my dude, a quick sample of the movement I repeat thousands of time for fun.

The knife in use is the CS Goldeneye, and the stone is the Naniwa Traditional 220.

The technique is pretty simple. Switch hands, use your index finger to gauge your angle, and "slow is smooth, smooth is fast" that shit all the way to success. Control and pressure is provided by the offhand fingers, the base movement is provided by the hand gripping the knife. The only difficult thing is actually training your offhand. Don't forget to bring your patience to practice lol.

 
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Alright guys, worked with some 4116 and got similar results. It was difficult to capture the edge properly in the lighting I had, so I took several pics. Nevertheless, the edge was pretty shiny afterwards.

However, the things that were noticeably different on a low allow steel were this: the steel was abraded much more quickly; I fully reprofiled the CS Working Man on the 1k, and there was a lot of swarf lol. Secondly, the degree to which the stone polished above its grit rating was definitely lower. That is, the polish was less like 3 or 4k, and more like a 2k, as you will see.

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The following pictures are shots of the edge after the 1k. It definitely was less shiny than the BLF 451 which came in at something like 3000-4000 grit finish, but it still had reflectivity higher than a 1k. Generally, a 1k should come in at a nice shiny matte silver, smooth looking, but unable to reflect an image. I'd put the finish on the Working Man's 4116 at something like a 2000/2500 grit.

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And this final pic needs addressing. This is a highly dramatic representation of the edge. The lighting was terrible, and edges are difficult to capture honestly, especially when you're using a cell phone. Nevertheless, the edge reflects the print on the receipt, which a 1000 grit finish generally should not permit, at least so far as I've experienced.

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So the important thing to note here is that--look!--my debit didn't get declined for a $23 purchase.

But seriously, unless I got a particularly hard series of the stones, or at least the 1k, the stones do seem to polish higher than their grit. Apparently that gap is decreased with softer, lower alloyed steels, but it does not appear to go away, at least for 4116

I definitely don't consider it a bad thing. I feel like I need to reiterate it. I am hanging up on this because it is interesting. Again, the cutting speed, if truly slower than other stones, was not noticeably so; it simply appears to polish a higher (to varying degrees) without any perceivable drawbacks.
 
But seriously, unless I got a particularly hard series of the stones, or at least the 1k, the stones do seem to polish higher than their grit. Apparently that gap is decreased with softer, lower alloyed steels, but it does not appear to go away, at least for 4116

I definitely don't consider it a bad thing. I feel like I need to reiterate it. I am hanging up on this because it is interesting. Again, the cutting speed, if truly slower than other stones, was not noticeably so; it simply appears to polish a higher (to varying degrees) without any perceivable drawbacks.


My Juuma stones are similar in use - the 800 cuts fast and leaves a 1200 finish, the 2k is comparable if not a touch brighter than the 4k I get from my Suzuki Ya, also a pretty hard stone but not in the same class as the Juuma (when freshly lapped the edges feel like they could cut you). When new they were prone to loading and are now much, much better all the way around after being lapped down by 1/32" or more.

I'm curious if your Naniwa will change character at all with a bit of the surface lapped down.
 
Thank you :)

FYI, Naniwa stone will all sharpened to slightly above their grit rating. The JIS standard actually has a few different ratings and Naniwa sits on the finer side of them.
 
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