Need help with kydex sheath problem. Please halp!

[JG Custom Metal Works]

Here's a karambit I just finished. I'm having a hell of a time with this kydex sheath though. The ricasso or square part of the blade, that sits behind the plunge line catches on the inside of the sheath and rips out little bits of kydex when it's drawn. It's happening on both sides of the blade.

I'm trying to figure out how to remedy this damn issue. Does anyone have any advice? I would REALLY appreciate it as the knife is about to go out to a customer tomorrow if possible. I didn't really foresee this problem.

Would it help to put a bunch of tape over those areas on the knife that are snagging? When I form the hot kydex around it I mean.

[Image removed]

 

[Guitarist7.62]

Bevel the edges so it's not sharp on that spot. Or round out the corners and it will no longer cut the kydex.

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

Thanks for the information.

I ended up breaking down and taking some diamond needle files to the sharp edges and it works a lot better. It's kind of too bad though as I like super squared off corners and sharp lines. Looks like I'm gonna need to figure out a way to bevel corners in a way that leaves a finer finish than what my diamond files leave...

 

[Kiah]

Yep, it'll do that. Extra tape isn't gonna help with the corners that square, they'll just catch higher up. Your retention is gonna need to be just on the the scales with room for the blade to get out.

You can take a heat gun to it and open up the areas that it's catching on all the way to the mouth of the sheath while keeping the form around the scales just enough for the catchy bits to clear.

In the future (or if you remake this one), pick up some wood or whatever material that's pretty much the same thickness as the blade to use as a filler. Shape a piece(s) to fit the contours of the handle and tape it/them to the handle/blade before pressing. When you form, the gaps you need for the blade to clear will already be molded in with the retention just on the scales. You may even need to go a bit thicker than the blade for corners that sharp. Crudely painted red bits equal filler material:



Hope that helps.

Side note: Had to blur the logo and remove original pic as business logos are a no-no without a KM/C/SP or Dealer membership.

ETA: Missed your last post. Hopefully the info will be useful down the road though.

 

[JG Custom Metal Works]

That's really good info. Thanks.

I'm thinking layered popsicle sticks will do the trick in the future. I guess the trick will be to figure out which types of blades will need it. Because obviously, there's better retention without using fillers. I know we have some kydex gurus in here and have encountered this issue before.

 

[Mike Sastre]

Sharp edges will always give you trouble when using kydex Better to soften the edges a little bit