NEED KEVLAR GLOVEs for SNAKES

Joezilla

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I do alot of snake research, and I'm thinking I would like to get some kevlar gloves, with sleeves. I am interested in blackhawk's hellstorm gloves but I want to see what else is out there:

What I will be doing: I frequently do research with venomous snakes, small alligators, and other small animals that are capable of inflicting lacerations and punctures. I know there isn't much I can do with the jaw pressure of large gators, but I've got catching them *almost* down.

I would use tongs and such, but it takes time to manipulate snakes into bags (to microchip or tag later to release) when we are on a tight schedule when snakes are only active for a few hours in large numbers (on my friend's test site)I sometimes go down to florida where the occasional burmese python that is large (probably over 8 ft would do it) could inflict tissue damage by twisting after the bite, and the little gators are much less predictable than the larger ones.

I'm looking for:

Tight fitting gloves, of a more tactical nature, it is important to feel how these animals are twisting in situations.

Sleeves: gloves with sleeves, the longer, the better.


I don't need the nomex or heat resistant aspect that much, more on the ergonomic aspect...I want to be able to deploy my emerson cq7-a with them on!
 
I know that the kevlar gloves are cut resistant but puncture resistant? I'm not sure about that. Here's hoping that someone more knowledgable that I chimes in soon.
 
Very fine chainmail mesh gloves, like high end butcher shops use, under Hatch Spectra-fiber cut resistant gloves should do the trick. Any increase in protection is ,however, going to result in a loss of dexterity.

For sleeves, a good set of thick leather bracers ( available at any SCA fair) would do the trick. Tuck the glove ends into the bracers and tape them down.

Thick cow leather gloves, like my motorcycle ones, or my elkskin ropers, are going to get too hot to wear all day and too water-loged to maintain any dexterity.

I can't help but point out that Steve on the Discovery Channel doesn't wear any gloves ! :D

Be quick,
Jeff
 
and tom brown doesn't need a knife :yawn: no herpers ever take steve erwin for real. Most of his animals are planted right before they film, so the rumors say. Like I said, we are pressed for time :eek:
 
Keep in mind that most Kevlar gloves (and most gloves in general for that matter) are not very puncture resistaint. Make sure when you look for gloves you make sure they are puncture resistaint, not just cut or slash resistaint.

Also, pay close attention to the coverage (protection) areas. Most gloves (especially ones for police work) have limited coverage areas. Also keep in mind most of these gloves are designed to protect your palm and fingertips, not the back of your hand and fingers which is probably a high risk area when handing animals.

I suggest you look at the Turtleskin "Full Coverage" (level 3) gloves by Warwick Mills.

These gloves are made out of a VERY tightly woven amarid (Kevlar I assume) that actually claims to be puncture resistaint. In fact, they actually sell items using this material specifically as snake resistaint.

I suggest the full coverage gloves because they are completely made up of the Turtleskin material and *only* made up of the Turtleskin material (no lining, etc). They also have a pretty decent sized cuff. Most of the gloves Warwick sells are a combo of Turtleskin and other materials such as leather. The full coverage gloves give much better protection IMO and use no other materials to impeed dexterity.

However, a warning. These gloves, while very thin, are fairly stiff as you might expect by a weave tight enough to stop punctures. They also don't stretch so as a result they do impact dexterity.

Sizing can be a bit tricky. I've found that while I normally wear a size "large" glove, that on these gloves a medium works best for me with no liner. However, I find that with size large I can wear a thin knit glove underneath (like these).

Oh, they also sell sleeves. While I don't have any of the sleeves, I suspect the sleeve (not the sleeve plus) would probably work nicely with the full coverage gloves.

Oh, as an aside. I suggested the "level 3" gloves (highest protection available with the full coverage gloves), but I should point out I've never tried the level 1 or level 2 gloves. It isn't clear to me what the real world tradeoff in protection vs dexterity is in their "level" ratings.

Another puncture resistaint glove material is HexArmor, but I haven't done any research on them, nor do I have any of their gloves. It looks like their Hercules R6E gloves fit your need. They also make sleeves. Certainly if anyone has experience with this material, I'm love to hear about it.

Good luck!

-john
 
I was going to say the same thing, not much resistance to punctures. Most of the "pro" snake handlers you see on various TV programs don't use 'em.
 
At the risk of sounding stupid and this is familiar territory for me, but if you're handling the snakes for research wouldn't there be some concern for the snake's teeth/fangs were they to snag the chain-mail (sp?) or some of the other type gloves? I'm guessing you'd want them to head back to their turf with all their teeth intact.
 
I could see that as an issue with chain mail, but the Turtleskin stuff would probably be about as safe as you could make it.

-john
 
mwerner said:
I was going to say the same thing, not much resistance to punctures. Most of the "pro" snake handlers you see on various TV programs don't use 'em.

they aren't on a time limit. It takes a while to manipulate a venomous snake into a bag, its not something you want to rush. If you could grab them behind the head and throw them in a bag swiftly, you can save about 5-7 minutes. If its a copperhead (especially fiesty) you would save even more time. Those five minutes are important because they only cross the road at a certain time, and the more time you spend looking for other snakes, the more data you get.


It probably would get stuck in the chain mail. We have done tests on different types of cotton canvas and other material, snakes can get hung up in them pretty easily. Thevenomous snakes rarely break off their main two fangs though. Non-venomous snakes leave teeth in me all the damn time. I just let them bite me it doesn't really hurt. Those broken teeth in the skin give me something to do when I'm bored.
 
I use these wonderful gloves in the shop all the time. They are Hi Flex gloves, made by Ansell I believe and available from MSC, part # 03954302. I pay $13 a pair but they last a long time and are quite abrasion resistant. Thee are similar to the tight stretchy cotton gloves with the rubber coated palms that you see everywhere now but much better made and extremely comfortable in hot or cold weather. If you go to msc.com you can type in the part number for a full description...
 
Joe,

If you get the Turtleskin or Hexarmor gloves, I'd be interested to hear how it works for you.

-john
 
Peter Atwood said:
They are Hi Flex gloves, made by Ansell I believe and available from MSC, part # 03954302.

While the "rubber" area on the palm may indeed provide some puncture resistance, I think a snake could easily sink his fangs through the knit material on the back of the hand...

-john
 
On my farm here in De. I pick up copperheads from time to time. If I wear gloves they're usually just leather palmed work gloves. I don't recall ever having them bite through. Maybe it's all in how you pick them up.
Oh, I almost forgot that important 1st. step . I shoot em. :D
 
i have 4 (including one with a titanium tip!). They work well if the snake stays still on the hook. Most don't. The snake hooks also aren't nearly as good as tongs.

I just used my snake hook yesterday (I'm in florida running around right now) to help me bring in a florida soft shell turtle. He bit a tiny piece out of the wood handle!
 
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