Need opinions on round knife

C

Craig Daniel

Joined
Feb 17, 2016
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I want to try and make my own round knife for leather work and need some help with steel selection. I have many sections of wide band saw blades with carbide teeth, Will these work for a good steel for the round knife? I also have a round sawmill blade that does not have carbide teeth but instead have to be sharpened, Would this be a better selection than the band saw steel? These two are the only things I have wide enough to use so I am kinda limited here, Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks Craig.
 
The blades with soldered carbide faces will not make good knife blades. The all steel blade will.
 
For all the work that anyone will put into a blade, why not buy the best steel you can afford? It is the least of the investment you will make in any knife, no?
This is something I want to do soon too. Have you done the homework on blade size and geometry?
 
Wide band saw blades with carbide teeth may well be 15N20, so they would make good knives. You should be able to find out by knowing the manufacturer of the blades you have. The 15N20 JT sells is from such blades.
 
My 15n20 does come from 12"+ wide bandsaw blades but mine don't have carbide teeth. But 15n20 is tough do I could see it being used as a backer for carbide.
 
I have 4 different band saw blades, 10" and 6" wide but there are no maker marks on them. Is there any other way to find out what they are? I would really like to use them if possible.The old circle saw bade is about 1/8" thick, Is this too thick for a round knife?
 
How much steel (what size) do you need for this round knife?
 
6 inch by 4.5 inch to give blade width and full tang handle, Do you have a piece that size you would sell?
 
I got tons of steel and can cut it any size you want. the thickest 15n20 I have in stock is .090.
 
Yes 1/8" is too thick for a roundknife. Stock in the .070 range I've used but even that requires a lot of grinding. Stock in .050 area is best. I use AEB-L @63 RC (heat treat by Peter's), for my leatherworking knives, (I also make a skivving knife designed by our own Paul Long). This steel and heat treat yields a roundknife that is screaming sharp and really holds an edge.I do this for a living and will cut leather for hours at a time. The secret is not to let your knife get dull, buff or strop often.

Of all the knives I make, grinding a roundknife is the most difficult. I would suggest a non symmetrical one for your first effort. They are a little easier. Also they can be dangerous to grind. I have learned to grind them by standing to the side of the grinder not in front. Because of their shape they have a propensity to get caught on and launched by the belt.
 
I guess I will check with aldo and see if I can get some AEB-L and give it a try, I know I can buy a round knife but I like to make my own tools when possible. Thanks for the info Dave I appreciate it.
 
You bet. Use to be a custom saddle maker here in town. 3 or 4 times a day he'd stop work get out a bunch of bench stones and sharpen knives. He probably spent more time sharpening knives than cutting leather. Hard to make a living that way. I started building my own so that I didn't have to stop and sharpen a knife all the time. To me the most improtant attributes are how sharp can it get and how long will it hold that edge. Working with Paul on that skivving knife was the same deal. The commericially available ones really needed sharpening every use. From our first discussions in the design stage edge holding was paramount.
 
I have .072 thick 15n20 as well. I can do the heat treating for you. Hell I could profile, heat treat and rough grind it and ship it to you. Or you could do the shaping and grinding and I can heat treat for you.
 
Watching with interest.
I have been thinking about making one too, would love to see what you come up with.
 
Dave (Horsewright) gave me some excellent advice while I was working on my first round knife. I had already started with 1/16" O-1, but he mentioned that .040"-.050" is a little better/thinner. The guy it went to simply loves it. Design credit goes to "Leather Wranglers".

FullSizeRender1_zpsrqbwdhkk.jpg
 
I'm gonna think about this a little before I make a move, Thanks so much for all the help and comments they are all greatly appreciated. JT I have a Paragon that I heat treat in so can you give me some pointers on the formula?
 
We have some thin blade steel in stock:
.044” - M2
.050” - D2
.058” - CPM 20CV
.068” - CPM M4
.070” - CPM 3V
.070” - CPM S30V
.076” - CPM 10V

I would like to know how 10V would work for a round knife. I have a couple knives made from 10V. The knives have phenomenal edge holding.

Chuck
 
Craig Daniel said:
I'm gonna think about this a little before I make a move, Thanks so much for all the help and comments they are all greatly appreciated. JT I have a Paragon that I heat treat in so can you give me some pointers on the formula?
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Oh then your all set. Most likly you will be around 1475° doak for 10-15min and quench in fast oil. Canola oil can work if you don't have any parks 50. I have lots of small chunks laying around in .072 thickness that I would be more then happy to send you. Get me your address and I will slip a chunk in a envelope for ya to try. I just ask that when you relize how sweet 15n20 is you come visit me agian so I can send you some more.
 
Craig Daniel said:
I want to try and make my own round knife for leather work and need some help with steel selection. I have many sections of wide band saw blades with carbide teeth, Will these work for a good steel for the round knife? I also have a round sawmill blade that does not have carbide teeth but instead have to be sharpened, Would this be a better selection than the band saw steel? These two are the only things I have wide enough to use so I am kinda limited here, Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks Craig.
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Try to find find some HSS circular saw ............ In use they often break and you can get piece for free .Will last you for years .
 
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