Need product to stain/protect interior pine door

[annr]

We are installing a solid pine door in our house. The contractor needs to stain or polyurethane the wood to protect it and give it a nice finish. We need something that is no-VOC, or extremely low-VOC, due to family members' asthma and allergies. Can anyone recommend a product? Thx.

 

[bladefixation2]

Have you considered an natural oiled wood finish instead of an artificial varnish finish if VoC are of concern? You can use a range of oils on unfinished wood.

 

[annr]

Yes, I asked the contractor about such options, and I could not get a concrete answer. He said that this was in the realm of furniture polishing and not his area of expertise--not mine either. I got the impression that he did not want to stand behind an uncertain result. What would the disadvantages of an oiled wood finish be in terms of wear and maintenance?

 

[bladefixation2]

Although I've intended for a while now to try an oiled finish on a table I have, I haven't yet got around to it. From the research I've done I believe this is the process:

1. Ensure the wood is clean and bare with no existing treatments applied. Oiled finishes rely on the oil soaking into the wood grain rather than sitting on top like paint or varnish.

2. Use a broad paintbrush to generously apply oil in the direction of the grain. Leave for 20 mins then wipe excess oil off with a clean cloth.

3. After 6 hours apply a second coat of oil using a clean nylon pad. Work in the direction of the grain. Wipe excess oil off and leave overnight.

4. Repeat step 3 applying a third coat of oil. Wipe excess oil off. Leave to dry overnight. Polish with a soft cloth.

Boiled linseed oil is a common oil to use. The boiled version dries more quickly than the non boiled stuff.

I've seen it suggested that maintenance is typically applying another coat of oil approximately once a year.

Might be worth trying this on something cheap before committing to the door... I don't think varnish or paint would take well over the top if it didn't work

 

[CWL]

Just have it stained and sealed and be done with it.

Generally, if this is a very high-end door made from walnut, mahogany or teak, then you should consider oil and wax to really bring out the grain and depth of the wood, but if this is a pine door you may not want to spend all that time, expense and effort for it.

 

[rickdarris2004]

Go with a Gel stain. They tend to be a little less nauseating. Its easy to apply and it drys pretty fast. I have used it multiple times with great results and little complaint from the wife!

 

[mete]

Do NOT use oil it never really dries but outgases a long time . About 15 years ago I had wood floors and kitchen cabinets done with low VOC akrylic and that worked well as all smell was gone in about 24 hours .That was when VOC finishes first came on the market ,there are many more now -water base very low VOC.
I also used a B Moore paint , low VOC.There are good things on the market now .Do some research .

 

[Bob W]

Whatever you choose, do the work outside so your home won't be filled with fumes.

What finish to use? That's easy, whatever matches the rest of the doors in the house and the wood trim in the room! You could use different stain colors for different stories of the house, or even for different rooms especially if the room's functions are completely different. But don't mix-and-match colors in a single room.

For a formal, vintage, or masculine appearance use a darker or deeper color. To make a room lighter, 'sunnier' or more informal go with a lighter color. Using more coats of stain and/or letting the stain sit longer before wiping off will give a deeper tone. For the most 'natural' look, so the woodwork looks like pine when you're finished, use one of the pine stain colors - you'll need some kind of color stain to bring out the grain and give the door some 'warmth'.

Whatever you choose try it on a bit of scrap wood first. Preferable a scrap of pine wood (most lumber is pine), because stains and finishes look significantly different depending on the wood. You can buy small cans of stain very inexpensively - buy several that interest you and try them all.

I have stripped and refinished several old doors that had been painted over, much of the house's woodwork, and many new carpentry items as well. The easiest, fastest, cheapest, and most durable process is to use a Minwax stain and a polyurethane finish. The stain fumes are the most noxious-smelling, but that's locked in once the poly is applied. There are other brands of stain that are 'supposed' to be better, but don't over-stress about it; just use whatever brand has the color you like best.

There are some water-based polyurithane products. The finished product seems almost as good, the dry time is faster, and the fumes are more tolerable.

Here are some of the Minwax colors I've used:
For the home's library, all of the woodwork (all pine) was finished in "red oak". A deep color that really brings out the wood grain without being dreary or too dark.
On the home's third floor I used a new color, English Chestnut. I love it! A deep beautiful color that gives an aged or vintage look.
In the entry room Wife used Golden Pecan in order to match the existing color on the main staircase. The golden pecan is almost like the pine stains, but with slight tint.
Did a pine bookshelf in jacobean. Very dark, darker and more black-ish than expected. I wouldn't use it for a door or a room's trim. Maybe if going for an exotic look?

Simple steps to follow:
1 - Sand the door as fine as possible.
2 - Apply first coat of stain. Rag, cheap brush, whatever.
3 - Allow first coat to soak in and stand for desired time. More time = deeper, warmer color.
4 - Wipe off excess.
5 - Let stand for however long (according to instructions on can), longer for deeper color
6 - Steps 2, 3, 4, and 5 again for second coat of stain if desired
7 - Let stain dry completely before adding polyurethane. Time listed on stain can.
8 - Apply first coat of polyurethane.
9 - Let stand for instructed amount of time
10 - lightly sand or 'scuff' the new poly layer.
11 - Apply second coat of poly.
Obviously do all of this with the door laying flat so the stain and poly doesn't run or streak.

And definitely do the work yourself. Paying someone an hourly rate to stain woodwork?!?

 

[annr]

What finish to use? That's easy, whatever matches the rest of the doors in the house and the wood trim in the room!

My subject line was poorly written. The concern is finding a no-VOC sealant (or stain). Even the low-VOC products exceed safe levels for the individual involved. For this reason, we are thinking of not staining the door and just using poly, the appearance being secondary--unless we can find a workable stain.

The easiest, fastest, cheapest, and most durable process is to use a Minwax stain and a polyurethane finish. The stain fumes are the most noxious-smelling, but that's locked in once the poly is applied. There are other brands of stain that are 'supposed' to be better, but don't over-stress about it; just use whatever brand has the color you like best.

There are some water-based polyurithane products. The finished product seems almost as good, the dry time is faster, and the fumes are more tolerable.

Minwax is what the contractor wants to try, but even Minwax looks 'strong' on paper so we are testing it on wood. The VOC max. limit of 100 g/L meets the LEED requirements for indoor environmental quality, and I have only found one product that does so, Acri-Soy Penetrating Clear Satin Sealer, ("Inhalation: No known effects on respiratory tract... V.O.C. Content: <25g/l)", but he doesn't know how well this works and is resistant to trying it.

And definitely do the work yourself. Paying someone an hourly rate to stain woodwork?!?

We had to hire a contractor due to the extensive scope of the job: both the upstairs and downstairs bath below had to be gutted to remedy multiple plumbing problems--far more than we would ever dream of attempting. The entire room, incl. walls, ceiling, floor, and window were gutted, so everything is in play. Consequently, DYI on the door is a minor aspect in the scheme of things, and he will do a better job I am certain.

Thanks for the insight into the stains. In the event that this work can be done off-site, you have given me some good ideas for making a few choices. Also, the cold weather here :thumbdn: (currently 8 deg.) makes working outdoors unlikely.

 

[mete]

Annr, if it's such a serious problem you need far more info than just a door finish. Everything must be studied as the number of chemicals in house products is very large .I would be happy to assist you if you want . PM me.

 

[MaryDy]

We also have solid pine doors in our house. To tell the truth, I do not accept other doors, indeed wood is very warm and cozy, it looks noble and stylish.

 

[knarfeng]

thread locked. Spammer removed.