Need some advice from the pros on replacing handles

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Mar 5, 2021
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Hello guys and gals. I have a Cold Steel 2 handed Machete that pretty much sucks because of the Polypropylene handle. I truly despise these ugly uncomfortable horrid handles and I am convinced the Poly material takes away the striking force on swing of the blade due to very bad and painful hand shock and the Polypropylene absorbing energy upon striking targets. I need to do 2 things.
1. Thin down the blade angle. Any recommendations on edge changing or degrees?
Should I use a professional knife sharpener for this or buy a Work sharp? If not how do I measure my blade angle and what tools do I need to use to change the bevel and edge?

2. Remove the Polypropylene handle and replace it with another material.
I need something that does not transmit unbearable shock to the hands.
Micarta scales, Leather wrap, G10, Or any other material you may suggest?

3. Is this an undertaking even worth pursuing considering I paid $30 for this 2 handed machete? Or would I be better served to chuck it in the trash or give it to someone else? I also noticed the Tang in the handle looks fairly small and perhaps will only become weaker if I strip the original handle.
Being that this project may be more complicated than what I realized as an amateur hobbyist and not a professional level knife maker. Or not worth the time, money, or headache. As there may be better alternatives.

Here are a few pictures of what I am working with. I will post more as this project comes about if I decide to pursue it.

What I do next is dependent on the input of those who have modded knives and have more experience than myself.

IMG_0119.jpg IMG_0116.jpg
 
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If you want a shock absorbing handle, consider horse stall mat.
I do not know what the tang construction looks like so that may be an issue in and of itself.
 
If you want a shock absorbing handle, consider horse stall mat.
I do not know what the tang construction looks like so that may be an issue in and of itself.
It is full tang as I can see the steel at the end of the handle with a flashlight. It is full length but width compared to blade looks half as wide.
In other words. Encapsulated full tang similar to the Ontario Spec series knives.
 
Anyways. I decided to cut off the handle. A regular hand saw blade was giving me issues with bunching up. So I used a Japanese pull saw with fine teeth and once I got about 2 inches in I used a large nail to pull the handle slabs apart to facilitate smoother cutting and no catching or side friction on the saw.

A Hacksaw would have probably worked better. I managed to save the slabs in order to measure my next set of slabs. And I have given thought to adding a blade guard if possible. Or I may just grind out a semi circle by the handle area and create a choil as found on the Spyderco street beat fixed blades and some of the Fred Perrin designs. I may even keep it as is.

The next part will be the hardest for myself since I am only an amateur at knife sharpening and do not have experience with thinning out blades. I feel the blade area is a bit too thick and obtuse to lend itself for chopping branches and small trees. And that a blade reprofile may be in order. So either I will attempt this or I will have a professional sharpening service do this for me.

Here are a few pictures of the Cold Steel 2 handed machete after handle removal. I must admit cutting 9 inches of Polypropylene straight down the center by hand using manual hand power instead of tools was quite a work out. IMG_0125.jpg IMG_0126.jpg
 

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I would use a hardwood for your new handle scales. You can shape them with a rasp and sand paper. I would drill them to match the holes in the tang and then epoxy them on. I would epoxy a piece of dowel through the holes. If you want the finished handle to be wider than the tang, I would also epoxy a filler strip on the tang edges. Once the epoxy is cured, tape off the blade so you don't cut yourself, and shape with a rasp. Follow with course sandpaper, 60 to 80 grit, and then finer till you like the feel. You can thicken your epoxy, with sanding dust, fumed silica, or even white four from you kitchen. If you thicken it to form a paste it will stay where you put it instead of running out before it cures.

O.B.
 
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