Neoprene handles, for Newbs!

Joined
Aug 26, 2010
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43
Well, after landing a killer deal on a new grinder ($75-craigslist, SCORE!), I was also given a couple knife blanks in the deal. DOUBLE SCORE! The guy had thought about getting into knifemaking but never got anything going. So even though I had scoffed at the idea of starting with a pre-made blank....I figured I couldn't let these go to waste.

Side-note: After going through with this experiment, that notion of me never using pre-made blanks is long gone. There is no reason you should limit yourself to ONLY fully custom blades. This was fun and I learned a bit from it. Also, these blades come sharp as hell, properly heat treated, AND cryo'd.....for $15. Awesome deal.

Anyways, I ordered some neoprene rubber pieces from TKS. This material is not very popular and, in fact, I didn't find hardly anyone that used it. So this was an experiment to say the least. Here is a basic run down of how things went.

First, a pic of the new grinder. She's my baby. (I know this is nothing compared to most of your guys' but I'm a broke SOB with a girlfriend that scrutinizes every spent dollar) :)

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So I ordered 2 sets of 2 scales (handle material). As it turned out, cutting 1 of the 4 in half, was enough handle material for this knife.

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I drew out a basic profile on the rubber and then cut it out. I actually used the blade I was tracing to do the cutting. This stuff is a perfect combination of being soft yet tough. You don't have to be perfect and you actually WANT it over-sized for sanding down flush later.

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Now, I missed the photo op for the actual epoxying. It started setting up faster than expected and I got rushed putting it together. First, surface prep by roughing up the knife handle with coarse sandpaper then cleaning/drying it. Make sure to use the machined side of the neoprene against the knife. Basically you mix up a typical 30minute epoxy, spread it over the knife handle, attach one side of neoprene, flip it over and spread epoxy this time filling in the holes in the handle to create 'epoxy pins', then clamp it in between something flat. I used 2 of the un-used neoprene scales. Again, be liberal with the epoxy. If some squirts out the sides, don't worry, it will be sanded off later. Let this sit overnight.

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After it has cured you can begin to file, grind, or sand (60-100 grit will work fine) the basic outside profile, of the rubber, down to the metal of the knife. I used my brand spankin' new grinder but in reality, it was overkill. This stuff can easily be formed by hand with regular sandpaper.

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Yes, beer makes everything better. Even knifemaking. It's common to cut, scrape, burn, or set yourself on fire while making knives. Beer tends to lessen the pain somewhat. =D

From there just knock off the square edges and start making some ergonomic contours to your liking. I finished up with 400-grit sandpaper but as long as it's over 300 and under 600, it should look good. The site says NOT to polish so I would just take their word.

Here are a few finished pics. I really love the feel of this stuff. It stays 'grippy' even in wet or cold conditions. Perfect for diving, skinner, kayaking, and camping knives. I don't understand why more people don't use this stuff!? Maybe it's because it doesn't look AS nice as the other materials, but I think it looks great.

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Disclaimer: I know newbies shouldn't be writing how-to's but I just wanted show what this stuff looks and acts like. I didn't find much info on it so here is a documented account of how it went for me. There is some debate about using epoxy to secure it but it hasn't caused me any problems yet. Time will tell, I guess. :)

I don't know if this is frowned upon here (newbs posting tutorials), I just know I LOVED coming across threads like these back when I first joined. Still do, in fact. It's so much easier to learn with visuals and step by step.
 
Very interesting. I wonder how it will hold up. Is it "grabby"? I don't like that property myself.
 
If the epoxy doest hold use flexible adhesive they use for car molding. I found you need something a bit flexy since the scales aren't quite rigid. It's good stuff though!
 
I make neoprene handles for skinners and fillet knives. Everything you said is right.
It doesn't take a smooth finish, and the looks are so-so....but it won't slip in a wet/bloody hand. I use a black epoxy made for bonding rubber to metal. I think the maker is Hysol? K&G used to sell it, but doesn't anymore, IIRC. I'll check this evening and see if that is right. I tried the rubber adhesives used on cars, and the neoprene adhesive used to repair wet suits. Neither would hold the metal very well. I drill lots of large holes through the tang, so the epoxy bonds the rubber together. No problems so far.
 
Could you show us how flexible the material is?

I would have drilled a few more holes in the tang, but with a flexible scale I wouldn't expect the bond to pop off like it would with something hard.
 
Yea, it is a little bit 'grabby' but maybe not as much as you would think. Once its been worn in a bit and got some hand oils in it, I think it feels awesome. I'm the opposite though, I don't like super smooth 'slick' handles.

I ordered a few more of the same knife after some friends drooled over it, haha. One of them paid for 4 blanks in exchange for me making him one! Woot woot. I intend on drilling several holes in the next ones. I'll look into those adhesives, too, since these are now essentially 'customers'.

Hmm, I'm not sure how to show the flexibility. The scales at 3/8" thickness could be bent 45 degrees without much effort and when I cut it in half to 3/16" it was very easy to bend.
 
I use a black epoxy made for bonding rubber to metal. I think the maker is Hysol? K&G used to sell it, but doesn't anymore, IIRC. I'll check this evening and see if that is right.

Hysol is made by Locitite, which is now owned by Henkel.


They have a huge line of industrial CA and epoxy, formulated for different applications.

It's expensive, and their special gun would be handy to have; but the stuff is good.


http://www.henkel.com/adhesives/industrial-12131.htm
 
Python, thanks for the tutorial. I've got some horse stall mat and have been working up the courage to try it for some boning knives. Now I'll definitely give it a try.
 
Congrats on the grinder! I need to start trolling CL for sweet deals like that....

Also - the neoprene setup you have looks pretty straightforward and practical. Thanks for sharing.

PS. -- I bought a ton of unground Carbon V blade-shaped billets from the Camillus 'estate sale.' I fail to see any downside to using something that saves me time -- and would just be a pain in the ass to do myself.
 
Charlie, he will have a hard time drilling more holes in the tang, as he is purchasing pre-made hardened knife blades.
 
Yea, it is a little bit 'grabby' but maybe not as much as you would think. Once its been worn in a bit and got some hand oils in it, I think it feels awesome. I'm the opposite though, I don't like super smooth 'slick' handles.

This is true, Too true in fact. I have a little fixed blade that has been my edc for a couple of months now, and the rubber is not grippy any more. one side is o.k. and still feels rubbery, but the other side is hard and slick. I assume this is due to how I cary, as oil gets on one side but not the other. So anybody know what can be done to prevent it from getting like this.
 
Ok I am sorry but is that a 1''x30'' grinder?
If so you can get one for 45.00 from HF, and with a 20% off coupon you can get it even cheaper.
 
@hkpokes- Yea, I don't know why I had it in my mind that using blanks was bad. Its a huge time saver. I think I just felt like I couldn't call it something I made in the end.

No problem guys, thanks for the comments and suggestions!

@bigern- No, it is a 1x42" and way stronger than the cheap HF one. These run between $150 and $300.
 
Nice work! There's nothing wrong with using blanks if that's what you want.

Nice score on the grinder. That looks like a great deal for $75.
 
Definitely nothing wrong with using blanks and pre-made blades. It is a good way to get started with guaranteed results.
 
I've wanted to try something like this with just glue for the scales, but I was thinking of having the handle area sandblasted. Has anyone tried this? I made a friend a knife using Brownells tuff coat, and the coating absolutely would not stick without sandblasting. The industrial coatings I've been around, mostly epoxy based for water tanks and such, must have sandblasting underneath too.
 
...I was thinking of having the handle area sandblasted. Has anyone tried this?

In the famous Glue Wars thread (it's around here somewhere) sandblasting the tang improved the performance of every adhesive they tried. I sure don't see how it would hurt.

Python007, your WIP is cool but you may want to refrain from encouraging alcohol use while grinding. Just a thought.
 
I've wanted to try something like this with just glue for the scales, but I was thinking of having the handle area sandblasted. Has anyone tried this?
.


IF you watch the bob Loveless video, he shows doing that for best adhesive adhesion.
 
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