New Evenheat KO Problem

M

Marc Cooper

Joined
Apr 7, 2019
Messages
60
Hey All

I purchased a new Evenheat KO Kiln in October. I finally got to use it this evening for the first time and it has a bit of a problem.

While it can reach and maintain any temperature under 1700 degrees Fahrenheit, if it goes over 1700 Fahrenheit the temperature readout begins to jump around erratically. It varies over 1000 degrees, so it seems like there is a problem with the thermocouple or whatever reads the temperature. There doesn't seem to be any loose wires, or any clicking or other noises..

I've attached a video of the problem that shows the temperature jumping around when it goes over 1700 degrees Fahrenheit.

I'm hoping this is just a thermocouple problem as I live in Newfoundland and shipping this beast to be serviced would be a nightmare. (Waiting on a response from Evenheat now, but was wondering if you guys had any insight?)

Any thoughts on what is wrong?

 
I have an older RM3 controller on my KH418 which had a similar problem. I replaced the thermocouple which did not fix the problem. I ultimately had to replace the motherboard which seems to have resolved the problem, for now.
 
If you got it in Oct, its still under warranty on all parts. give em a ring and let em know whats up i bet they ship you replacement for whatever is wrong for free
 
If it’s new you have to contact the manufacturer because this would be a warranty issue.
 
Check where your thermocouple wires go into the back of the controller. And plus I just built one using the evenheat schematic. I can tell you those evenheat thermocouples are junk. I have 4 of them 2 of them jumped around with the temperature like your are doing. Then I had them in about an inch from the top into the kiln. There was 200° temperature difference between the Omega thermocouple's and the evenheat thermocouples. I put the Omega TC's down close to the knives.
 
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Brian Stucker said:
Check where your thermocouple wires go into the back of the controller. And plus I just built one using the evenheat schematic. I can tell you those evenheat thermocouples are junk. I have 4 of them 2 of them jumped around with the temperature like your are doing. Then I had them in about an inch from the top into the kiln. There was 200° temperature difference between the Omega thermocouple's and the evenheat thermocouples. I put the Omega TC's down close to the knives.
Click to expand...

I tried jiggling the cable that runs into the unit and the other side of the same cable where it connects to the thermocouple. Didn't seem to make any difference, so I didn't pull the control box apart.

It only happens when it gets above 1700 degrees. Anywhere under that it performs perfectly. This makes me suspect it is a bad thermocouple as opposed to a bad wiring connection.

I am thinking I will buy a spare thermocouple if it turns out to be the issue. Evenheat should replace this for free, but never hurts to have a spare on hand as they are cheap.
 
I believe it's your TC. I had 2 out of 4 Evenheat TC's do exactly what your describing. It cost me more $ for Omega TC's but I believe they are more accurate.
 
Brian Stucker said:
I believe it's your TC. I had 2 out of 4 Evenheat TC's do exactly what your describing. It cost me more $ for Omega TC's but I believe they are more accurate.
Click to expand...
Is the Omega TC a direct replacement for the Evenheat or do you have to modify the kiln to get it to work?
 
I dont know if they have one specially for an Evenheat kiln but with a little imagination you could probably get one that mounts up nice. I would just call them. They have tons of different TC's and mounting options.
 
You just need a type K TC with 10 gauge leads. It will probably be around 6" long. You can mount it at any length through the TC mounting block. Clip/cut the leads off to the right length.

IMPORTANT -The TC and the TC wires from it to the controller are polarized. Make sure you identify the wire color and which TC lead is positive.
The negative lead on the TC is more magnetic than the positive lead. Just use a magnet to check it out (or a sensitive voltmeter).
Type K wires are yellow =positive and red = negative.
The TC block usually has + and - on it, as do the connection points on the controller. Often the negative terminal has a red mark on it.
This is for USA color-code standards. Europe has a different color wires.
 
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