New Hobby: Oyster knives from scrap

[piddlinchic]

Hello,
Let me begin by saying I am new to the site and new to the hobby of knife making. I have been wanting to make my own oyster knife for a while, but wanted something unique. In my mind, I wanted to make a curved knife, thinking it may alleviate a sore wrist after long shucking sessions. I could not find what I had in mind in a pre-made blank, so I figured I would make my own. My father-in-law has a couple dozen old circular saw blades lying around and I decided to try to use them.


I know circular saw blades can be considered "mystery metal" and at this time I have no desire to spend a lot of money buying steel. I am a bit of a "hobby-whore" for lack of better words...I will do something for a few months and move on to another hobby when I either get bored or realize I can't perfect the task.

Anyway, I have a few questions.

I have sanded the blade to a foggy, reflection-type finish. Starting with 120-grit and going to 1000. The blade still has a haze to it, but I could use it as a mirror in a pinch. Is there an easy, inexpensive way to get that really nice, mirror finish?

Also, with the blade finished, I have noticed that it scratches really easily. I know this is probably a stupid question, but is there any way I can avoid this issue in the future?

Is there any reason that using the saw blades won't work for oyster knives? I would like to make some as gifts. My family is very coastal and loves having oyster roasts.

Thank you for looking and I appreciate any and all advice you can give me. I welcome constructive criticism, but please don't take this opportunity to make me feel stupid (as I have read in other posts from newbies). I am aware that I know nothing and you are the experts I also value your wisdom, which is why I came here for help. Again, thank you for your help.

 

[tattooedfreak]

Im pretty sure Stacy is the expert on oyster knives here and im sure he'll be in soon but I can't see it being a huge issue as its not really required to keep a sharp edge. At most you are looking for torsion strength which you should have enough of as long as you dont over heat the steel. As to mirror polishing.. it takes a lot of practice. Honestly you can get a mirror polish before 1000 if you take the time and get out all the scratches at each grit, switching directions each time. I can get reflections at 400/600 and a full mirror at 800/1000 and depending on the knife, sometimes take it to 2500 or 5000 and I know people who go further than that. However, using a mirror polished knife on an object that is guaranteed to scratch might be counterproductive. Take it to 800, then go back to 600 or 400 and leave it a nice satin finish. It will still look nice and scratches wont show as easy.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I make about 100 oyster knives a year. All are about 3" blade length, 1/2" (13mm) wide, and .09-.10" thick (2mm). The last 3/4" at the tip is bent at about 10-15 degrees. Tang is about 3/8" wide and goes about two inches up the handle. There is a simple thin ( .030") bolster at the handle end that is ground flush with the handle end. It is made of the same steel the blade is.

The slightly bent tip design is very popular with people who shuck a lot of oysters. I haven't made a straight blade in years.

As for steel, any tough steel will work. HT is a good idea to get the max toughness. I use plain old 440C and HT for high toughness, not for high hardness. Blades probably Rockwell around 52-53 range.

A circular saw blade is some kind of high chromium alloy, probably with some nickel. There is no reason it won't work for a home made oyster knife. The problems will come in trying to HT the knife, so it is probably best used as-is. Shape the blade to your wishes and put on a sturdy handle.

Sanding an oyster knife to a high grit and then mirror polishing it is pointless. It will be scratched up on the first use .... and deeply scratched by the tenth. I take them to 220 grit and quit.

 

[Foot Patrol]

Bladesmith could you post some pictures of your oyster knives? My brother is an oysterman in Cape Cod and I would like to make a few for him. I have done a lot of research on different commercial models and some custom knives. I sure would like to see a few of your Oyster Knives.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Here are some photos of a batch from last year.

Since the design and function is not up for improving on, all the blades are identical (well, pretty much identical).
I make the handles in a variety of shapes, and in attractive stabilized woods. One of the fun parts of selling them is watching people "try them on" by gripping each one and checking the "feel". I have found the fat ones sell better.
They really spend time deciding what wood looks right for them, too.

The commercial white wood "broom stick handle" oyster knife never sold for me. I made them in maple for $15 and people passed them up. I sell the ones I make now for $30 and they fly off the table.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Some more.

 

[piddlinchic]

Double Post.

 

[piddlinchic]

Thank you for the info and advice. It does make perfect sense that a mirror,shiny finish would be pointless. I think I will stick with leaving them with a satin finish. ....edited: sorry, didn't mean to post the same thing twice. I can't figure out how to delete the previous post.

 

[Willie71]

If there is an oyster apocalypse, I know where I'm heading!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

.... I can't figure out how to delete the previous post.

Click "Edit Post'
Clear the post and replace with "Double Post"
Click "Save"

 

[Foot Patrol]

Bladesmith I really like your Oyster knives. Simple design, good looking handles. I can see why they fly off the table. Thanks for sharing.

 

[piddlinchic]

Again, thank you for the advice. I've been messing around in the shop and have finished a few. I know the design is not conventional, but that's kind of my style. There will be a little craft show in a few months and I guess I will see what I can do there. Maybe by then I will have the process figured out

https://www.facebook.com/PiddlinChic

And Bladsmth, I like your knives also. what type of finish do you put on your handles?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

No finish at all. Just sand and buff. The wood is stabilized.

Your design may be OK as far as leverage in popping the shell, but the tip is a dead No-No for any shucker I know. Points like that on a blade will do one of two things - Cut you...or Break. Round it up a good bit. The wide blade may be too wide for easy insertion, and I can't tell the length, but you need enough to get in and cut the abductor muscle. The stag handle may look cool, but will be a stinking bacteria factory in no time at all. It would also be really hard on the hands if you shuck more than a few oysters. A bushel with that knife would make my hand bleed.

That said, make them as you wish. It is fun to make interesting things. Lots of people just buy things for the looks and never use them.

OK, now for the bad news. You are a registered user and are posting pictures, prices, and info on selling these knives. I am going to close this thread. If you want to show photos of the knives, do it without pricing or sales talk.