New knife advise please.

S

skillgannon

Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
991
emIQBmk.jpg

Thus is my first blade that dosnt feel like practice. The sheath is still in progress. It's for a friend. I gave it a scotchbright finish but the patina has already started. What's the best way to finish it that will look right. Re-scotchbright or full patina?

Also any points for the next one are much appreciated. Don't spare my feelings☺
 
Last edited:
I would give it another scotchbrite finish then oil/wax before giving it away. Then explain to your friend that it will patina(better than rust) if he uses it and that he should either force a patina(you can help) or suggest the wipe clean and dry and oil/wax before storing away....You want to show off how good it looks FIRST then allow it to age!!
 
it looks like you did not put oil on the blade right after you did the finish on it ? when the metal is raw from being finished, even a finger print can show up a few days later after it starts corroding the metal. it needs a protectant. when you go to epoxy your scales on, clean the metal wth acetone or alcohol to remove the oil, and re apply oil after the epoxy sets.
 
Leaving corrosion on the blade when you give it away is just not a good way to put your best foot forward. Someone that is not a knife maker will look at it difrently then then we do. If thy want a patina then I let them do it, otherwise it just looks tacky.
 
Did you put a welt in your sheath? If not then your edge is going to cut the stitches.
 
Looks great compared to my first grinding attempt. Congrats I am sure your friend will love it. How many practice knifes did it take to get to that level of skill?
 
With regard to your sheath, it is a little "boxy" looking. Use your knife as the pattern for your sheath.
Lay your knife down on a manila folder laying the spine of your knife on the spine of the folder and trace the outline of your knife onto the manila folder. Then, move that line over about 3/8 of an inch away from the line you drew for your knife shape, making the knife shape of your knife a little bigger. I would imagine there are YouTube videos that will show this better than I can explain it.
I like your knife handle, that's something I struggle with and hope to get better at.
 
PTUDLER.jpg
k7AMDnG.jpg
cEPAcOz.jpg

I cleaned it back up and stiched my sheath.
The sheath is "functional" I guess but definitely not a work of art. I think I'm going to get set up for kydex since I'm not really enjoying the leather work thing right now.
 
The knife looks much more presentable. Your friend will be lucky to have it. Kydex sheaths are a good idea but don't give up on leather. Leather work is like anything else. There is a learning curve. Once you get the hang of it you'll see it's not so bad. And a well designed and executed leather sheath is a lovely thing.

You are just down the road from me. If you would like to drop by and get some pointers send me a PM.
 
Next time you wet form a sheath (for a carbon steel knife) wrap the blade and some of the handle in some seran wrap. The wraps onto the handle will help anchor the blade wraps in place a bit.
A few times around and some tape on the edge will keep it dry enough to allow the sheath to dry and not tarnish the blade.

Nice looking knife, just see if you can adjust the sharpening notch, as stated above.
 
i4Marc said:
The knife looks much more presentable. Your friend will be lucky to have it. Kydex sheaths are a good idea but don't give up on leather. Leather work is like anything else. There is a learning curve. Once you get the hang of it you'll see it's not so bad. And a well designed and executed leather sheath is a lovely thing.

You are just down the road from me. If you would like to drop by and get some pointers send me a PM.
Click to expand...

Thanks I would love that. I just got done with a big project and have been spending some time on the grinder on my layoff. I think I have one more week. Leather work is on yhe to do list but I think I should focus on one skill at a time.
I'm not sure how to PM but my email is callmestorm@hotmail.com and my phone is 360.305.6225
 
JTknives said:
Leaving corrosion on the blade when you give it away is just not a good way to put your best foot forward. Someone that is not a knife maker will look at it difrently then then we do. If thy want a patina then I let them do it, otherwise it just looks tacky.
Click to expand...

Corrosion not good, but a forced patina can look pretty darn awesome depending on the style of knife...especially on 18th century style knives. Not so much on modern knife styles IMO.
 
Last edited:
I personally don't care for forced patinas. A lot of the ones I have seen look blotchy and tacky. But that's me personal thoughts. Only panina that I have found I like is the one on my wife's A2 kitchen knife. It's got this shiny blue sheen to it. But it's not even as it's in the area where she uses it. If you could get this over the entire blade and not look blotchy or forced it could be ok. I just have seen a lot of the "mustard & Qtip" patinas and I think thy look very tacky. But as I stated that's my personal preference. I'm also on the boat where I don't like the look of basics cable Damascus, looks blaw.
 
JTknives said:
I personally don't care for forced patinas. A lot of the ones I have seen look blotchy and tacky. But that's me personal thoughts. Only panina that I have found I like is the one on my wife's A2 kitchen knife. It's got this shiny blue sheen to it. But it's not even as it's in the area where she uses it. If you could get this over the entire blade and not look blotchy or forced it could be ok. I just have seen a lot of the "mustard & Qtip" patinas and I think thy look very tacky. But as I stated that's my personal preference. I'm also on the boat where I don't like the look of basics cable Damascus, looks blaw.
Click to expand...

How about hamon? Isn't that basically a type of forced patina? I'd like to start doing that with my blades. I suppose that's more of an etch though...but they can have pretty dark colored blades.
 
JTknives said:
A hamon is a phase change area between hard and soft not a surface corrosion.
Click to expand...

Agreed that it is a phase change, but etching with ferric chloride results in a darkening patina that enhances the visual effects and brings out that change. Kinda similar to bringing out the contrast in damascus...as far as I understood it anyways.

Anyways as they say...different strokes for different folks. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top