New Recurve Bow Question, Possible Damage

L

Landlocked Pirate

Joined
May 9, 2009
Messages
80
Hey y'all,

I am a complete rookie when it comes to archery but I have gotten the bug and after a little research I decided on purchasing a Bear Grizzly 50# recurve. I just received it and I love it. It's exactly what I was looking for and I hit suprisingly well with it my first time out.
My question is this: when I unpacked it my son mistakenly put the sting on backward and partrially drew it before realizing his mistake. I know this can damage a bow, but I'd like to know from some of you archery people if there's much chance that this one-time error did any damage. This may be a stupid question (hopefully) but like I said, I know nothing and will have to learn from the ground up. Thanks.
 
Hard to say if he damaged the bow, probably depends how far back he attempted to draw the bow. I have not
heard of anybody damaging a bow this way, just do not let him dry fire it, which is drawing back and letting go with
no arrow on the string, this will kill most any bow made, re-curve or compound. The easiest way to check for damaged
limbs on your bow, is to rub a cotton ball up and down the limbs, if they are cracked the cotton ball will snag on the crack.
 
It's more than likely just fine. Sounds like your son has the same nick-name as a buddy of mine, "Wrong Way":D Welcome to another addiction.:thumbup:
 
The easiest way to check for damaged
limbs on your bow, is to rub a cotton ball up and down the limbs, if they are cracked the cotton ball will snag on the crack.
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So the damage that results from this kind of abuse is actual limb cracking? I didn't know that, and if that's the case then there doesn't deem to be any damage.

Welcome to another addiction
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Yeah, like I needed something else to spend money on. You're exactly right though, it's got me good.
 
yeah, the main thing that happens to re-curves as far as damage is de-lamination, warping, and cracks. Before every shoot, and periodically during the day you should be looking to make sure everything looks good anyway, and trust your intuition. in this instance I'd guess you'd be fine, all of the damage I've seen to re-curves has been pretty evident, twisted limbs being the most common, but I've parked bows for hearing a buzz from the limb (a cracked fiberglass arrow can also make that noise, so thats something else to keep in mind if you shoot glass arrows) From what I understand the folks at Bear are pretty decent, so if your concerned you can contact them if something starts to concern you. A 50# limb going off at full draw will hurt, so it pays to be aware of whats going on with your bow. But it can happen to anyone. I had some nuts come loose 200 arrows in on my new PSE compound, and had it not been for the range guy hearing a difference in my shots, I would have had the center guide fall out of my bow. not cool. now I'm much more careful about checking for loose parts between rounds.
Shoot straight!
 
Landlocked Pirate said:
So the damage that results from this kind of abuse is actual limb cracking? I didn't know that, and if that's the case then there doesn't deem to be any damage.
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Not much to go wrong with recurve bows beside what gadgetgeek described de-lamination of the limbs, cracks in the limbs, and the more noticeable limb twist. I would almost have to say that what your son did had little effect on the bow, Bear makes some pretty tough bows. Good luck with your bow this season, hope you put some meat in your freezer.
 
Thanks again everybody. I've examined it and shot it a good bit and can't detect any kind of damage. I was afraid it could have affected the set or tension of the limbs or something like that, but if we're talking about just outright observable damage then I think I'm fine. The bow had been on backorder from Cabelas for weeks and I was worried that I had degraded it right out of the box.
 
We used to get a lot of recurves in the shop with twisted limbs. This usually comes from leaving a bow strung and then letting it stand in a corner. As a general rule of thumb if you are not shooting the bow un-string it. Never leave a bow under tension in a car with the windows up during summer. The heat and stress will cause delaminating as stated before. Another common way to twist a limb is to string a bow by stepping over one limb and pulling the other limb while stringing the bow. A bow stringer is only a few buck and well worth the money. Have fun and shoot strait.
 
Wow, a 50#'er for your first trad bow, that's pretty good. Traditional archery has been a blessing in my life and am glad that there are more and more folks out there picking it up. I have several longbows (just got a JK Traditions Kanati today in the mail) and I love them all. It's very rewarding to harvest any game animal with traditional equipment. Next you will need to start making your own wooden arra's, unless you're shooting those carbon thingies.....
 
If there was any damage it would have come apart when drawn or shot. Recurves can suffer from twisted limbs pretty easily if left strung and standing up on their tips but that too can be fixed.
 
Yeah don't stand bows in corners. Bad news for the limbs if that's done for an extended period. I'd get something closer to a 24#-30# bow for starting out. You want to be focusing on your form first and foremost. Just like you can "over-gun" yourself, you can very easily "over-bow" yourself. Welcome to the fun!
 
I also agree with 50 being quite a bit for someone to learn on trad. I always thought I was pretty strong and used to shoot a #70 compound. Tried my buddies black widow at 55 last year and proceed to lose a half dozen arrows in the next 15 minutes.
 
The South Koreans traditionally dominate archery at the Olympics and I've heard they don't let their prospectives even touch a bow for two years. They spend that time working on miming perfect technique. The second a bow is put in their hands at the end of that time, they're hitting gold every time.
 
When I was building and selling longbows most wanted 50-60 lbs but if I was able to talk them into a 45-48# they always thanked me later. The kinetic energy differance is not that great on a given design between 45-50 but makes a very visable difference in form and enjoyment.
 
I was out shooting my training wheel bow one day(compound). My wife would usually watch me and one day asked if she could try to shoot one of my recurves. The lightest recurve I have is a #45 and it stacks pretty quick. I bought her a little Ragim Wildcat and she quickly out grew that bow. I just bought her for our anniversary a Samick Squall in #25. She loves it. I did not push her into archery at all but she never puts the bow down. Makes me a very proud husband. She has no interest what’s so ever in compounds. I shoot both but only shoot targets with my compounds.
 
PSE Stinger for me, and a Diamond Razor Edge for my wife. Training wheels for both of us, but it's fun. there's a stick and string in my future sometime, but until I shoot more often, and work is more consistent, I'll have to wait.
 
Vintage for me. I love the factory recurves of the 60's-70's and they're very affordable. My fav is a Ben Pearson "Golden Sovereign" series Lord Mercury. It's a 28 pound that takes a 70" string and has actual vials of mercury in the riser that act as built-in stabilizers and shock absorbers. :D
 
Wow, I haven't been here in a while because the first few replies satisfied me that my bow was probably OK (which it is), but I see the discussion has continued on! I'd like to say I'm tickled pink with my choice of bow. I was really concerned that 50 pounds might be too much, that I would get it and not be able to draw it. I'm 58, and although reasonably fit I'm slim and have fairly spindly arms, but the 50 pounder turned out to be perfect. I can draw it fine, but it still leaves room for a little increase in strenghth which I'm sure will come with shooting. I am fully addicted, but like I said I have to learn everything from the ground up. By the way, my son just ordered an identical bow.
Thank y'all again for the responses and the good advice.
 
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