New shop toy

T.Knotts

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So I got the mini CNC (3018) the other day and put together. Had some time today to play with it a bit and figure out how I could make it useful. I used a program called easel to make a pattern for the slip sleeves for my slipjoints. I HATE cutting leather and wanted to see if this could do the job. After my 2nd try I was pleasantly surprised. It actually did a decent job. The holes all line up and edges are symmetrical. I think I can probably dial it in a little better but here are some pics. Took about 10 min from setting up the machine to finish. The only thing I did afterwards was run a groove in the thread line and skive the edges. Just need to glue up, finish the edges and sew.

I'm anxious to see what else this little devil can do. Anyone else have experience with these?20191030_135718.jpg 20191030_141029.jpg 20191030_141715.jpg
 
That's awesome, especially for small symmetrical projects that are a pain in the arse to cut out evenly, you know what would be cool.......

Fobs Tim, Fobs everywhere...
XXEverywhere.jpg
 
Oh I like that! I can see this thing being a rabbit hole that I'm jumping head first into lol.
 
This was just experimenting. I used a crappy piece of end leather and didn't put much attention into the dying and such but overall I think this is going to work out. A little wax and buff and it will look good.

What do you think? yes or no on the logo? 20191031_103940.jpg
 
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I'm going to try some g10 to get things dialed in then see how NS and Brass goes. Maybe some bronze and copper if I can find it thin enough.
 
I'm going to try some g10 to get things dialed in then see how NS and Brass goes. Maybe some bronze and copper if I can find it thin enough.
I think I have some bronze around .07ish.
 
After breaking a few bits I think I'm starting to get the feeds and speed dialed in for Nickel Silver. You can see in the pics that the NS shield didn't cut out and set as nicely as the G10. I think I was getting some vibration while cutting and that cause the issue. I'll try securing the work piece better next time to see if they helps. 20191103_110815.jpg 20191103_102201.jpg 20191103_122127-01.jpeg
 
Maybe try annealing it too? Turn it a nice cherry red and let it cool, or dunk it in water.

That bronze I have is .074, I have a 7x4" sheet. I'll get it to you this week.
 
Maybe try annealing it too? Turn it a nice cherry red and let it cool, or dunk it in water.

That bronze I have is .074, I have a 7x4" sheet. I'll get it to you this week.

Good idea, I'll try that. I'm not sure if it comes annealed or not.
 
After breaking a few bits I think I'm starting to get the feeds and speed dialed in for Nickel Silver. You can see in the pics that the NS shield didn't cut out and set as nicely as the G10. I think I was getting some vibration while cutting and that cause the issue. I'll try securing the work piece better next time to see if they helps. View attachment 1225055 View attachment 1225056 View attachment 1225057

In case you don't know already, there are basic equations for feed rates when cutting different types of materials. Can be found in machinist's handbooks, I'm sure online too. They're different depending on the style of cutter (single flute, double flute, carbide tipped, etc.), diameter, and diameter vs. length of cutter too. RPM vs. table feed matters a LOT too!!!

The first two cuts in the first pic appear to have been galling, which means the feed rate was too slow and the material is heating up too much. Are you making multiple passes to cut through that material? Sometimes with thin material you're better off to fully penetrate the material first, then feed into the cutter from the side. With the tiny bits you're using though, that might not be possible without breaking things. It is also not best practice to cut with an end mill that way, but it can be done.
 
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