New to collecting... Hell of a forum you have here! *updated*

Welcome to the war.

Yes, there is a lot of good info. on this forum but, you should also know that unfortunately, there are also a LOT of jerks on here.

And what's even worse, is that more often than not, the moderators will reward these jerks by covering up and defending their bad behavior. (even to the extent of muzzling and / or banning the other less fortunate party)

It's just a theory but, to me it appears to be largely based in classism. If you're a paying member, you catch less flack.

It's like the adult version of high school, only instead of social cliques based on extra-curricular participation, here it's based on dollars.

Not saying you came to the wrong place, I just think you should have the truth going in...the WHOLE truth.

Anyways, welcome and will be looking forward to hearing of the additions to you collection! :)
I find the vast majority of members here treat you as you treat them, so if you've found a bunch of jerks, well...

As for the mods, I've been here a long time and they have always strived to be impartial and fair in their judgements and do an excellent job of keeping the forum running smoothly. If you have issues with the way this forum is moderated you need to take it to the Tech Support forum where it can be appropriately discussed and dealt with. Otherwise, frankly, I think you've got an axe to grind and, knowing your history here, it's because you've gotten infractions for rules violations.

TL;DR For the most part, you make your own experience here.
 
Welcome to the war.

Yes, there is a lot of good info. on this forum but, you should also know that unfortunately, there are also a LOT of jerks on here.

And what's even worse, is that more often than not, the moderators will reward these jerks by covering up and defending their bad behavior. (even to the extent of muzzling and / or banning the other less fortunate party)

It's just a theory but, to me it appears to be largely based in classism. If you're a paying member, you catch less flack.

It's like the adult version of high school, only instead of social cliques based on extra-curricular participation, here it's based on dollars.

Not saying you came to the wrong place, I just think you should have the truth going in...the WHOLE truth.

Anyways, welcome and will be looking forward to hearing of the additions to you collection! :)

There's no war here. It's all in your head...:) The mods do a great job at keeping the riff raff and counterfeit/clone promoters at bay here.
 
Welcome to the war.

Yes, there is a lot of good info. on this forum but, you should also know that unfortunately, there are also a LOT of jerks on here.

And what's even worse, is that more often than not, the moderators will reward these jerks by covering up and defending their bad behavior. (even to the extent of muzzling and / or banning the other less fortunate party)

It's just a theory but, to me it appears to be largely based in classism. If you're a paying member, you catch less flack.

It's like the adult version of high school, only instead of social cliques based on extra-curricular participation, here it's based on dollars.

Not saying you came to the wrong place, I just think you should have the truth going in...the WHOLE truth.

Anyways, welcome and will be looking forward to hearing of the additions to you collection! :)

This is not the place for left-handed attacks against the moderator staff. That would be here:

https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/tech-support-general-q-a-site-feedback-more.679/

I'm sure the mod staff would love to discuss it with you there.

If you want to insult and attack members with whom you have issue, you know where the correct forum for that is too.
 
Funny you should say that. I just bought a Wiha stubby driver and a set of Wiha Torx Bits. It's a perfect kit for working on knives. And you gotta love German quality.
Another fan of With Torx bits here. They are definitely worth the money if you plan on tweaking your knives or working on them in general. Cheap Torx bits will ruin your hardware :(
 
The only negatives I can say about it is that the "F" is gawdy and I'd prefer it a hair thinner. I had given some thought to playing around with the Iconic until I got bored or purchased a higher end knife with titanium scales and then selling it... But now I don't think I'll be doing that. This thing is most definitely staying with me, lol. Factor Equipment is supposed to have several designs in the pipeline coming out soon. I think I'll check out their designs to make sure they learned their lesson and stuck to original work... And if so, I'll be buying more of their knives without hesitation. At the price they are asking, their knives are ridiculously good (or at least this one is).

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It looks to me like that "F" is sand or bead blasted into the face. I'd bet that with a Scotch-Brite pad and a little bit of elbow grease you could remove it and give the whole scale a nice, satin finish.

There are a few YouTube videos about using a Scotch-Brite on Ti scales. Just an idea. Peace...
 
Invest in some Boker/Wiha Stubby Torx Kits. Thank me later. ;)
So what are the magical properties of Wiha? Do they give you a +3 Charisma modifier:D?
I keep on hearing their name tossed around, (in a positive light) but considering I'm not a tool head, I don't see anything that makes them stand out from my lowes tool bit set
 
So what are the magical properties of Wiha? Do they give you a +3 Charisma modifier:D?
I keep on hearing their name tossed around, (in a positive light) but considering I'm not a tool head, I don't see anything that makes them stand out from my lowes tool bit set
They're generally agreed to be the best commonly available bits. They're properly hardened and cut, which isn't always the case with bits, and that means they're less likely to cam out, stick or strip screws.
 
Wiha is the best. There's a reason why their name is tossed around a lot here. You don't really see the value of Wiha, until you start torqueing down on screws, whether trying to screw or unscrew a lok-tited handle or pivot screw.
 
Wiha isn't the only name worth noting just probably #1 in many peoples books as Insipid Moniker Insipid Moniker mentions the quality of them is higher. The issue with many the sets found at Lowes and Home Depot is they are often cheaply made and will wear out faster or worse more easily damage the screws. I believe Bondhus is another well respected brand that sells quality tolls.
 
Wiha isn't the only name worth noting just probably #1 in many peoples books as Insipid Moniker Insipid Moniker mentions the quality of them is higher. The issue with many the sets found at Lowes and Home Depot is they are often cheaply made and will wear out faster or worse more easily damage the screws. I believe Bondhus is another well respected brand that sells quality tolls.

I forgot about Bondhus. I have a torx set from them that are about 20 years old and still use them to this day.
 
So what are the magical properties of Wiha? Do they give you a +3 Charisma modifier:D?
I keep on hearing their name tossed around, (in a positive light) but considering I'm not a tool head, I don't see anything that makes them stand out from my lowes tool bit set
I use Torx bits every day at work and they come with the tool holders we buy. The vast majority are Wiha. The others are Swiss or Vessel from Japan. I have tried MANY different ones from the big box stores and they all, without exception, have been total crap. Some didn't even last a day!
 
Funny you should say that. I just bought a Wiha stubby driver and a set of Wiha Torx Bits. It's a perfect kit for working on knives. And you gotta love German quality.
Quality in general really. Rule of thumb for tools, quality costs more but serves you longer and miles better. So just bite the bullet and buy quality tools and skip the budget stuff if you can :thumbsup:
 
Whoa, looks like things got a little crazy in here for a minute! I haven't check the forum today because I've been working on my Opinel (I go back to work soon so I gotta get that and the SOG done!). It's coming along pretty nicely I think. :) Still LOTS of sanding to do on it though. I'm going to the take the wood near the collar down a bit so it's almost flush (already started). From there, I'll round off the rear of the handle a bit more so the curve matches the curve on the bottom a bit better. Then I'm going to sand down the bottom of the handle so the blade can be pinched open. I picked up some Fiebing's Pro mahogany leather dye and and Fornby's low gloss tung oil to finish the handle with. I'm also going to sand down the blade so it has a spear tip and then I have something special planned for the blade after that. We'll see how it turns out.

On another note... Looks like I'll reprofiling a bit more/sooner than I thought. I've been checking out a few of the diamond systems in the $50 - $80 range but I guess I might at well look at all my options and check out the more costly systems like the EdgePro, WorkSharp, KME, etc (I don't want to outgrow the Lanksy in 6 months and then have to buy another). I've been able to use the SharpMaker to get a pretty decent edge (slices paper cleanly) on a few knives, but I've found it pretty difficult to use one handed so it'll be a little bit before I sharpen too much. Using a sharpie... I found that about half of my knives would have to be reprofiled before they can really be sharpened on the SharpMaker.

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Invest in some Boker/Wiha Stubby Torx Kits. Thank me later. ;)

Sounds like I'm gonna have to pick up a Wiha stubby screwdriver. I already have plenty of bits, so it looks like I can pick up the screwdriver/bit holder for about $13. :)

TL;DR For the most part, you make your own experience here.

Just like in real life!

No one needs to bother quoting or replying to @Jack_Burton, he's been permanently banned from this thread.

Everyone else, feel free to continue :)

Considering the post was right after I mentioned I was going to keep this thread going so I would have something to look back on... I just figured he was trying to derail it so it would be closed.

Thanks.

It looks to me like that "F" is sand or bead blasted into the face. I'd bet that with a Scotch-Brite pad and a little bit of elbow grease you could remove it and give the whole scale a nice, satin finish.

There are a few YouTube videos about using a Scotch-Brite on Ti scales. Just an idea. Peace...

I can't tell you how many times that's crossed my mind! I'd heard Ti scales handle sandblasting well so that was something else I was considering. I'll definitely look into Scotch-Briting it! I actually had planned on using the FE for my first anodizing attempt at some point too...

Wiha is the best. There's a reason why their name is tossed around a lot here. You don't really see the value of Wiha, until you start torqueing down on screws, whether trying to screw or unscrew a lok-tited handle or pivot screw.

I actually have a set of Makita bits made of S2 and a set of Neiko bits made of CR-V but they only cover from T5 - T15, they're both really high quality and that's what I'll be using for my knives. I mainly got the two cheaper screwdriver kits for the screwdrivers (I REALLY like the spinning base style for working on PCs), the flexible screwdriver extensions, the pry-bars, carrying cases, and the odd bits that I'll use once in my life or so (the ORIA came with like 60 bits). The bits in the kits are definitely lower quality, but they should serve their purpose (and won't be going near my knives, lol). I think I'm gonna go ahead and pick up the stubby screwdriver for $13 though... I needed to order some blue Loctite anyways (thanks for the reminder).
 
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I read your initial post and welcome to the addiction. I saw your list I have a PM2 and Manix2 I believe those are must have for any inthusiast/addict. I've been collecting for many years and just recently picked up a RAT 2 in D2 great knife. I've been into all diff types over the year I have a couple Striders, Microtechs and recently just grabbed my first Medford from the forum just to check one out. Unfortunately I really like it. There's lots of descent budget Chinese knives now I recently grabbed a WE 627a nice knife. Enjoy the learning and the obsession
 
I read your initial post and welcome to the addiction. I say if your list I have a PM2 and Manix2 I believe those are must have got any inthusiast/addict. I've been cc'd collecting for many years and just recently picked up a RAT 2 in D2 great knife. I've been into all diff types over the year I have a couple Striders, Microtechs and recently just grabbed my first Medford from the forum just to check one out. Unfortunately I really like it. There's lots of descent budget Chinese knives now I recently grabbed a WE 627a nice knife. Enjoy the learning and the obsession

As of now, the PM2, Manix 2 and Mini Griptilian are the three knives on my "to buy" list that are over $100. I've been hesitant to take the plunge this early as I know once I have a knives of that quality it will be hard to go back. The Chapparal and Factor Equipment Iconic I have right now are already ruining me, lol. I have the Rat 2 in D2 and carbon fiber, but I don't think it's for me. I like thumbstuds on slipjoints, but I don't think I like them much for locking blades anymore for some reason.

Thanks for the welcome!
 
Big update today! My second/third week back at work turned into a ten day straight work week, so I haven't been able to get quite as much done as I hoped... But still lots to cover! :D

First, I decided not to sand down the top of the handle on my SOG Seal Pup Elite... Instead a friend of mine is trading me straight across for a brand new Morakniv Bushcraft Survival, which should serve my purposes as a camp/BoB knife much better. I should have it in a week or so when I go back to my hometown to visit family.

Next... The rest of my knife maintenance stuff came in. The strop is double sided and I plan on loading one side up with the black compound and the other side with the white compound and calling it good. The Petrol-Gel is for the torsion bar inside the Speedsafe Kershaw's and I'll use the mineral oil I already purchased for the blades. The applicator tip on the Daiwa Reel Oil is fantastic and really makes it easy to get to the inner workings of knives. The Wiha stubby has already gotten some use... It's AMAZING for holding free-spinning pivot screws in place while using a regular precision screwdriver on the other side. The Loktite is pretty self explanatory.

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Much more exciting than that though... I decided to pick up @bhyde's Edge Pro Apex because he gave me a hell of a deal! :D He even threw in eight of the aluminum blanks and some polishing tapes! I've already started to mod it, lol. I picked up a quick-change spring to make swapping stones easier, a couple magnets to make holding knives in place easier while I have the gimpy left arm, and a drill stop collar to maintain a set angle. I also picked up a bunch of sandpaper in various grits as I had a bunch of DLT Trading credit to use, as well as an AngleCube so I can set the edges on all my knives so as to be very easily maintained with the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I'm been having a blast with the system so far. I definitely need more practice, but I have been quickly improving. I've just been using it on cheap kitchen knives and a couple of my cheap folders as I don't want to mess up any of my decent knives, but I imagine I'll be making that leap before too long. I'm also giving a little thought to picking up the Small Knife Attachment as I tend to like knives with blades in the 2.75" - 3.25" range.

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After that, I was checking out the Sierra Trading Post that just recently opened up in town in hopes of finding a cheap Mora so I could practice sharpening a Scandinavian grind before my buddy trades me his Bushcraft. Seems I was in luck as they had several different models under $15, including a Craftline Pro S for $8 and a Craftline Pro C for $9. I picked up the stainless Sandvik model as I already have a carbon Opinel... And because I found a Svord Peasant Mini with carbon steel at STP for $11 while I was there. It's even in my fiance's favorite color (well, it's mauve instead of purple, but it's close). Unfortunately, I found that the Edge Pro doesn't handle the grinds on neither the Svord nor the Mora very well. I tried using the Edge Pro stones as bench stones, but they are just too small and become clogged too quickly when taking off so much steel. Oh well... That just gives me an excuse to pick up a cheap system or combo stone to break into freehand sharpening! Right now I'm trying to decide between the Smith's 400/600/1000 grit Tri-Hone and the Norton Crystolon 100/280 grit Combo stone. I have a thread about it in the maintenance/tinkering section, but I'm leaning towards picking up the Norton and using fine grit sandpaper and a strop with compound to finish the blade. I know I could just use sandpaper for everything, but that sounds like a pain in the butt and not very cost effective in the long-run. Anyways... without further ado, here are the two new additions to my collection.

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Last but not least... After almost as much error as trial, I've made some progress on the Opinel No. 7. The first time around, I used pure Tung Oil but it turned out a little splotchy and not as rich as I was hoping, so I sanded all that off and started over. I honestly could have spent more time refining the handle and blade shape, but I did it all by hand with sandpaper and that crap is time consuming and I was excited to see if the blade/handle treatments I had planned would work. For the forced patina on the blade, I used petroleum jelly and lemon juice. For the handle, I used Fiebing's Mahogany Pro Leather Dye and Formby's Tung Oil for the finish. It's obviously not perfect, but this was a learning exercise, and on that aspect, I consider it wildly successful. For instance... I learned it's better to suspend the blade in lemon juice instead of dribbling lemon juice on the blade if you want a uniform pattern.

Right now I'm kind of split as to where to take it from here. I plan on doing a little more shaping of the blade... But other than that, I'm either going to apply another three or four coats of Tung Oil and then sand it down with really fine grit sandpaper for a hand polished look and call it good. Or I'm going to sand all/most the leather dye off and add a groove to the bottom of the handle so I can pinch open the blade and then refine the handle shape a little more before reapplying the dye/finish all over again. I may even decide to sand down the blade and redo the patina. The zebra stripes are a bit much, but when your four year old niece is in town and says you should do "horse stripes", you do horse stripes damnit!

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I guess that's about it. I purchased a Kershaw Leek Composite online the other day and I have a pre-order in for the copper Natrix, so I'll have a couple "new knife day" posts here soon. :) I'm also going back and forth over a Kershaw Skyline in Alabama Damascus for $69 over at KershawGuy, but I should probably sell a few knives first...

There are only a couple more knives on my sub $100 list left to pick up and then I'll be slowly breaking into the $100 - $200 range. I'm pretty excited to pick up a Mini Griptilian, Paramilitary 2 and a Manix 2.

*Edit
Picked up the Skyline with Damascus steel because you only live once, or something like that.
 

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