Newb/wannabe sharpener needs advice!

[Sendit6.5]

I’ve never been a good knife sharpener and, therefore I’ve always hated and dreaded doing it. Usually, I’d take my knives somewhere to get them sharpened. Now, I’d really like to learn and/or find a system that I can reliably use and that I can safely use on a high end knife. I recently picked up the most expensive knife I’ve personally purchased (Shirogorov R20) and I think that demands and deserves I learn how to do this! I realize I need to practice on LOTS of cheaper knives before I even think about playing with a Shiro; but I hope I can get some advice here on how to get started.

After doing a little reading in this section I kinda started leaning towards a paper wheel system of some sort - IF I could find one with a guide system to insure I maintain a proper angle at all times. But then I ran into those Tormek systems and I’m really wondering whether something like the Tormek T8 Custom wouldn’t be a terrific system for me to buy into? What do y’all think about these Tormek sharpeners and their suitability for sharpening even high-end knives? To an ignorant newb like me they seem incredible, with the ability to set virtually any angle and maintain it; plus, with all the compatible jigs they offer it seems like a person could sharpen ANY blade shape! Heck, they’re even sharpening chisels and carving tools with that unit.

Anyway, I look forward to any input you all can give me. Thanks so much!

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

first. Buy diamond plates and build up your muscle memory. These dont need power to sharpen WHATEVER you have that needs it.

B) I use a Harbor Freight 1x30. I use it to thin out bevels after getting a blade sharp. Makes em slicey. even .25" thick choppers can slice well if the shoulder behind the cutting edge is thinned out.

Fourth) Watch youtube. Theres a bunch of awesome people that know how to sharpen stuff who can SHOW you how it's done. Murray Carter and Virtuvoice come to mind.

D) Geometry cuts

GOOD LUCK

 

[Bill3152]

Doesn't matter which system you choose to sharpen. They all work and there's a learning curve involved in all of them. Pick one way and just keep doing it until you nail it every time.

 

[kreisler]

Lots of helpful advice so far. Here is mine.
Learn how to sharpen yourself, it gives you all the freedom of angles and sharpness and finish. It took me "years" of interest in the topic to call myself a sharpening gal but i am still amazed by the exfac sharpness of blades on Spyderco Giantmouse Fox pocket knives.

I hope this post was helpful and gave you all the power, motivation and inspiration and energy and stamina to

 

[sadmin]

YT is a valuable resource - I will add the channels:
Michael Christy & Burrfection

This forum as some great subsections on the topic as well, particularly the items to setup your progression.

 

[000Robert]

I believe that everyone should learn how to sharpen freehand just in case they find themselves needing to be able to. Then I recommend a Wicked Edge sharpening system. It also doesn't require electricity. I am very happy with my WE130!
I also have their scissors and chisel attachments. I just recently reprofiled/sharpened up an old cold chisel that was my late fathers with my WE130.

 

[-Kiku-]

I’ve never been a good knife sharpener and, therefore I’ve always hated and dreaded doing it. Usually, I’d take my knives somewhere to get them sharpened. Now, I’d really like to learn and/or find a system that I can reliably use and that I can safely use on a high end knife. I recently picked up the most expensive knife I’ve personally purchased (Shirogorov R20) and ...

Sharpening by hand on a traditional whetstone is an art. And to be an expert or a master in any art, it'll take time. And LOTs of it.
If you are looking for practical perfection on your high-end knives without allocating the time and resources required to master the art, then you will want to invest $$$ into a guided sharpening system. If you are in this category, then your options are either Tormek T-8 or Wicked Edge WE130.

If you choose Tormek T-8, I recommend that you get a Japanese Waterstone as an accessory. You can get both for just over $1k. You'll still have some learning curve with this rig, but it'll be much easier than sharpening by hand on traditional whetstones. Here's a nice video of the most common mistakes when using Tormek T-8.

Wicked Edge WE130 is the other guided sharpening system and the one that I prefer. Unfortunately, it's the most expensive option. More pricey than the Tormek T-8 + Japanese Waterstone by at least another $700 if you opt for an optional Pro-Pack III. WE130 is the easiest to use and the one with the least learning curve on all guided sharpening systems. Whereas Tormek T-8 is a commercial-grade sharpening rig that can sharpen the majority of knives incredibly FAST, WE130 offers you the highest level of precision and control of bevel angles of all sharpeners (down to ±0.05°).

As with everything, you get what you pay for. If you opt for the Wicked Edge system, you get a state-of-the-art sharpening system with excellent and consistent reproducibility with minimal metal removal, almost as if your knives were hand-sharpened on whetstones by a master sharpener, but with practically no skill required.

FYI, Wicked Edge, Inc. offers a 15% discount if you are a military member/vet, or a first responder.

Oh, and thanks for recommending me Dino-Lite. AM73915MZT is pricey but has everything that I would want/need.

 

[David45]

I really liked the Ken Onion Work Sharp and still do. It’ll produce a beautiful convex edge. I just wish it had CBN loaded belts for really hard steels, and that I could run it slower to prevent heating up the edge. Then I made the investment in the WE system with its diamond plates and got excellent results especially on the hardest steels like SV110. Also, there is no way to overheat the edge!

But, there was very little challenge and reward in mechanical/guilded systems except for the finished result. I started watching the Burrfection channel, and others, after buying a fancy Japanese “style” chef knife. Now I’ve started hand sharpening again after giving up so many years ago. The process can be very Zen-like.

The bottom line is that different people have more or less talent and time, and knives with different edge profiles that seem to “need” different techniques and tools to get the job done. IMHO the Wicked Edge was the easiest way to put an accurate edge on most knives that can be held by that clamping system. It is expensive and you’ll want to but more and finer grit diamond plates before long. Luckily, one of my sons asked mom for gift ideas and he bought me a few more plates over time. I still use it but the stones keep calling!

 

[000Robert]

I really liked the Ken Onion Work Sharp and still do. It’ll produce a beautiful convex edge. I just wish it had CBN loaded belts for really hard steels, and that I could run it slower to prevent heating up the edge. Then I made the investment in the WE system with its diamond plates and got excellent results especially on the hardest steels like SV110. Also, there is no way to overheat the edge!

But, there was very little challenge and reward in mechanical/guilded systems except for the finished result. I started watching the Burrfection channel, and others, after buying a fancy Japanese “style” chef knife. Now I’ve started hand sharpening again after giving up so many years ago. The process can be very Zen-like.

The bottom line is that different people have more or less talent and time, and knives with different edge profiles that seem to “need” different techniques and tools to get the job done. IMHO the Wicked Edge was the easiest way to put an accurate edge on most knives that can be held by that clamping system. It is expensive and you’ll want to but more and finer grit diamond plates before long. Luckily, one of my sons asked mom for gift ideas and he bought me a few more plates over time. I still use it but the stones keep calling!

Not me - I use my Wicked Edge almost exclusively. I was going to sell my Work Sharp Ken Onion but decided to keep it for lawnmower blades and such. There's almost nothing that I can't sharpen up with a perfect edge apex with my WE130. Plus with it I can see how good or bad the apex and edges are on a new knife blade.

 

[777 Edge]

Congrats on your Shirogorov...what a knife!

I have, and use almost all of the fixed angle guided systems on the market, I have some belt & grinding systems and I do extensive hand sharpening on bench stones too. Yes, I have a sharpening obsession lasting nearly 4 decades now....

Sharpening by hand on bench stones is very rewarding, but it does take A LOT of practise to get good at.

Personally, I would highly recommend the Hapstone sharpening systems. Great value for money, very versatile and lots of upgrades and extras available if you ever so choose. They are built like a tank, so you actually get a lot more than what you pay for. It still takes skill to master a system like this properly, but you'll get there much faster than hand sharpening. And believe it or not, it is actually very rewarding and serene to sharpen your knife with a system like the R2.

Have a look at the Hapstone R2 systems online on Gritomatic.com, and also have a look at their Venev Ursa and Venev Orion sharpening stones. Unbeatable value for money. Pair those 2 up and you'll have what you need. The Hapstone R2 Lite or R2 Standard will suit your needs well.

 

[AVigil]

Congrats on your Shirogorov...what a knife!

I have, and use almost all of the fixed angle guided systems on the market, I have some belt & grinding systems and I do extensive hand sharpening on bench stones too. Yes, I have a sharpening obsession lasting nearly 4 decades now....

Personally, I would highly recommend the Hapstone sharpening systems. Great value for money, very versatile and lots of upgrades and extras available if you ever so choose. They are built like a tank, so you actually get a lot more than what you pay for.

Have a look at the Hapstone R2 systems online on Gritomatic.com, and also have a look at their Venev Ursa and Venev Orion sharpening stones. Unbeatable value for money. Pair those 2 up and you'll have what you need. The Hapstone R2 Lite or R2 Standard will suit your needs well.

I just received from Gritomatic a Hapstone R2 standard with the scissor attachment. I am very impressed with the quality of the R2 and have been putting it through its paces sharpening from small slipjoints to fighters, It has really performed. Also the entire process from Gritomatic was great.

Being a custom knifemaker I have used a lot of different methods and this Hapstone r2 standard is here to stay. The wife is also super happy getting all her scissors sharpened.

 

[catspa]

I have an older Tormek version. I like it for 2 tasks: sharpening a large number of knives quickly to a toothy “working edge”, like on a fish dock full of boats. Also for repairing badly damaged edges and reshaping broken tips, before refining with finer abrasives. If you’re a hand tool woodworker, you’re gonna love it.

The sides of the standard 220-ish grit wheel are useful for flat grinds when a hollow grind from the wheel face is undesirable. You can make a tool rest that wraps around the wheel for support.

If you’re sharpening a small number of knives and tools for yourself, a Tormek may be pricier than you want to pay. That said, after one afternoon of using mine on his lathe chisels, my buddy Aaron (an avid turner) ordered one up the next day. He’s happy with it - less time sharpening, more time turning. Also, they occasionally turn up used for 1/2 price or so.

I grew up on bench stones, so freehanding is familiar and comfortable. But it does take some practice when you first start out, and it’s slow.

Best of luck to you, whatever you choose.

Parker

 

[Sendit6.5]

tinfoil hat timmy B Bill3152 K kreisler sadmin 000Robert David45 777 Edge AVigil C catspa

Thanks for all the replies and information, folks! It leaves me LOTS to think about and plenty of reference sources. I wish I had time to thank everyone individually but I want each of you to know that I learned something form EVERY ONE of your replies! I think I’m going to obsess over researching (a favorite pastime of mine, lol) for a while longer - starting with the YouTube channels that were mentioned. I WANT to be one of you Zen master hand sharpeners but I am a very busy guy with too many passions already; and I know myself well enough to admit that I probably won’t be driven enough to devote the time and rigorous devotion it takes to join those ranks. I was hoping for a system that would make getting a very sharp edge both quick and safe a reality. If that’s unattainable, I’ll probably seek out the services of someone (a member here?) that I can pay to sharpen nice knives for me - I have too much respect for a quality knife to butcher one as a ‘pretender.’ Lol!

Thanks again y’all! I may reach out to some of you individually with specific questions as they arise. Hope this is ok?

K -Kiku- Glad to hear that DinoLite is working for you! They truly are amazing instruments; and I love mine. I learned, quite a long time ago, that ‘investing’ in quality tools pays huge dividends. That’s why I’m willing to invest in something like a Tormek. Now I’ll have to look into this WickedEdge system. It’s more than I intended to spend so I’ll have to think about it and do the research. I wonder if there’s a market for used ones? I wouldn’t mind investing in one if I knew I could get out of it without losing my shirt in the process; or maybe I could find a used unit to purchase? Thanks again, Sir!

 

[marchone]

I look forward to any input you all can give me. Thanks so much!

As others have said freehand sharpening is a skill that takes a lot of experience to learn to do well. And like other skills in life, if you don’t do it regularly, or often enough, you lose it.

I’m surprised no one has mentioned the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It’s my go to for quick maintenance.

The aforementioned Wicked Edge WE130 system is fantastic but takes far longer to set up and there is a significant learning curve, as others have mentioned with all guided systems. I own and use both. In fact, my wife and I are on holiday now in a rented house overseas and I packed a Sharpmaker along with my kitchen knives. Of course it went in checked luggage with my knife roll.

I have never damaged a knife on one. It’s very easy to learn to use. I own two Shiros and other even more expensive knives.

Do a search in this forum for member’s experiences. At under $80 it’s a no brainer.

 

[DavidABQ]

There are many good knife sharpening tools out there but I am only familiar with a few. I have a WorkSharp, Ken Onion Edition(KO), an old model Spyderco Sharpmaker and a set of
Spyderco ceramic benchstones. I find for larger knives sich as my kitchen knives that the KO seems the easier to use that the Sharpmaker. I find on smaller knives like folding knives with 3 inch or small blades that I have an easier time with the Sharpmaker. I am still learning how to sharpen freehand on the benchstones but they seem versitile enough that I could probably do both just as easy.

Keep in mind that I can do small knives on the KO and large knives on the Sharpmaker, I have just found it easier to do large on KO and small on Sharpmaker.

These are just the systems that I have experience with there are many good systems out there so find something that you think will work for you and don't be surprised if you end up with more than one.

 

[Luke Dupont]

I'd recommend just getting a coarse, fast cutting stone, and a cheap knife or tool that you don't mind ruining, and go to town. Don't bother with precise angles, jigs, or anything. Just grind until you meet the edge one side at a time, and then work off the burr.

Like anything, it takes practice, and a lack of fear and willingness to experiment. Sharpening is not difficult or complicated at all -- it just takes a bit of practice and experience to know when you need to do what. Focus on edge geometry and creating and removing a burr. If you can figure that out, and practice it, you'll be able to confidently sharpen and repair any knife or tool from an axe to a razor, no matter how bad of shape it is in. (You'll need practice sharpening each tool specifically, but you'll be able to figure it out easily enough*)

Actually, I think it's a really good idea to go buy some beat up vintage tools and knives at flea markets and practice. The more horrid the better.

A very coarse, quick cutting stone, some dull, rusted, beat up old tools, and a lots of WD-40 would be a great way to start and gain both the experience and confidence you're looking for, I think.

 

[catspa]

One of the cool rewards of freehanding is when you realize that you can do it anywhere, with found abrasives. Beach sandstone, bricks, clay flower pots, upside down coffee cups. Really impressed my dad when I laid under my truck and burnished a knife on the swaybar.

You’ll never have to suffer with dullness again.

Parker