Any knife can be thrown, either rotationally or no-spin and hit point first. It all depends on the speed of release, the type of hold, the type of release, the arm and wrist motion, the body mechanics, the follow through, consistency of all actions. Then there are the external factors - target composition (tree rounds or end grain assembled or planks), wood type, condition of the wood on any given day, the temperature, humidity, ........
Forget the movies - 99% of what happens is the result of editing.
There are several types of throwing - each one is USUALLY done with different types of knives with different balance points, although any knife can be used in any style, with varying results.
-- no-spin, where the knife does little to no spinning after release, maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of a rotation with distance not needing to be known, but it helps. A lot of no-spinners prefer butt heavy knives, while others prefer their knives to have a more even weight distribution. I have no-spin knives that balance at the mid-point, and I have some that have 80% of the weight in the back half of the knife.
-- rotational - the knife spins in multiples of 1/2 spin and varies in the number of 1/2 spins based on distance and whether the knife is held by the blade or handle - these are usually done at distances known to the thrower. These knives USUALLY have their balance point some where within an inch or so of dead center, but it is up to the individual thrower's preference.
-- Mountain Man, where the throws are all by the handle and are only complete rotations (1,2,3...). A lot of these knives tend to be very blade heavy. The thoughts behind the rotational mechanics are that the heavy blade is pointing at the target longer during the spin process.
-- combat - also, sometimes called "1/2 spin throwing", where all throws are by the blade and the knife makes only a half rotation. One technique for this style is called blade walking - the grip puts the thumb at different locations on the blade between the tip and the balance point.
One of the things that new throwers do is bounce all over the place when throwing. The following information is based on the assumptions that you are using knives 12 to 16 inches in length and weight at least 12 ounces. Shorter knives have much shorter distances as you add 1/2 spins.
The best thing to do is --
1) pick a style- rotational or no-spin. Doesn't matter which one, just pick one.
If you picked rotational -
2) Start at about 2 meters (6-1/2 to 7 feet). Throw ONLY from that distance until you can consistently stick 20 out of 20 knives. Practice, practice, practice. You will be holding the knife by the blade for this distance.
3) After becoming proficient at 1/2 spin, move back to 3 meters (about 10 feet). This will be your 1 spin distance - 1 full rotation. Repeat the practice, parctice, practice, practice segment, including practice each day at the 1/2 spin distance to maintain proficiency at that distance.
4) Once you become proficent at 1 spin, move back another meter and add 1-1/2 spin, held by the blade. Rinse and repeat for 1/2 and 1 spins while gaining proficiency at 1-1/2 spin.
5) Keep adding distances until you get out to 3 spin - that is the most spins thrown in IKTHOF rotational throwing.
The distance will NOT be exact. The distances indicated - 2,3,4,5,6,7 meters are the MINIMUM distance allowed for a particular spin total. You can stand at 7 meters for 1 spin if you want (no recommended ). example, MY 1/2 spin distance for MY knives is 7 ft 3 inches, which is greater than the 2M minimum (6ft 8in). My 1 spin distance is 11 feet. 3M is roughly 10 feet,
Watch how your knives hit - if they hit point up, move back a couple of inches and try again OR try to spin the knife slightly faster so it gets further around in the same throwing distance. If they hit point down, do the opposite - move up a little or slow your spin a tad. Moving is ALWAYS easier than changing the speed of rotation.
If you choose to go no-spin first,
2) start at 2 meters. Throw "no spin" until you consistently stick 20/20.
3) move back to 3M and repeat, while also continuing to throw at the original 2M.
4) keep moving back, learning muscle memory at each M distance - you are teaching yourself to "know the distance".
You can also just move back 6 inches at a time and keep practicing until you can nail each distance.
-- instinctive - the thrower can "instinctively" throw rotationally from any distance, without knowing the exact distance. Some can throw a knife or tomahawk from any distance and the knife/hawk only makes 1 rotation, while other make do with 2 or 3 spins. The single rotation at all distances is controlled by how fast/hard the knife is made to rotate. They accomplish this skill by LOTS and LOTS of practice.
Some folks have different knives for each throwing style. I do too. BUT I also have successfully completed in all 5 styles with the same oversized behemoths of knives that I made early in my throwing life when I didn't have a clue as to what I was doing - they were 15.8" long and weight 18-1/2 ounces. I even threw them in Mountain Man competition by glueing wood slabs on them to make them legally handled.
Don't get enamored with how far you can stick the knives. Get good at close distances first. Add distance over time while maintaing your existing proficiency. Every time you change knives with nospin, you have to "relearn" each distance with the knives. Different knives WILL throw differently.
You can work on both styles at the same time - rotational practice one day, no-spin the next, etc. When just starting out, mixing styles can be confusing.
There's your basic throwing lesson for the day.