No, Your PM Stainless Steel Isn't Tough

Larrin

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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In an earlier thread I posted about a method for predicting approximate toughness based on chemistry: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/predicting-toughness-with-steel-composition.1534942/

One common question asked on Bladeforums is along the lines of, "Which Stainless steel should I use for a high toughness application?" Answers are usually along the lines of one of the powder metallurgy (PM) stainless steels commonly available such as S30V, XHP, 20CV, M390, Elmax, etc. However, all of these steels have relatively high carbide volume, leading to average at best toughness, as shown below:
https://i.imgur.com/1593U4a.png

All of these steels have carbide volume close to 10V or even higher! In other words, in answer to the question of which stainless steel is the toughest, the most common reply is the stainless equivalent of 10V. No one would say to use 10V if the question were asked about non-stainless steels. Arguments about which PM stainless steel is the toughest is the non-stainless equivalent of arguing about which is tougher between 10V and 15V. This may be a relevant question, but when one is simply looking for a "high toughness" steel, none of these PM stainless steels would seem like a good starting point. Why aren't there any lower carbide volume powder metallurgy stainless steels? That is a little more complicated, but the bottom line is they generally aren't available.

This also answers to some extent why there is a perception that stainless steels are not as tough as tool steels or carbon steels: the most commonly available and used stainless steels simply won't be that tough. Steels like AEB-L, however, have much, much lower carbide volume and can achieve much higher toughness. There seem to be very few options when it comes to steels in between, such as the 3V or Vanadis4/4V type steels but a stainless version.

Of course, these steels offer sufficient toughness for many knives and applications, which is not what I am arguing about. However, if looking for a maximum toughness steel for whatever reason, I would look outside of the PM grades.
 
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Am I the only one who thinks toughness is WAY overrated in knives? Choppers are different but I find that any commonly used steel is tough enough for cutting things.
Larrin, you mentioned 10V which a lot of people think is very fragile. When I first tested 10V I bought some Zapp A-11 from Chuck Bybee. It was ~.080" thick. I hardened it to ~63 RC and ground it to .012"-.014" and convexed it to sharp. I did some cutting tests and then started batoning with it. I drove it through a 1" thick piece of cross grain hard Maple with no damage. Next I drove it through a 1" piece of cross grain Osage Orange/Bois D' Arc with no damage. Then I drove it through a ~.75" Axis antler tip and the only damage was a small shiny spot on the edge which I expect was a small roll. It sharpened back up easily.
I'm just saying that in my testing and use, toughness is hardly ever an issue with cutting. Tools that will see impact, like choppers, cleavers, etc. are a different story.
Just wondering if I'm the only one who feels this way and if I'm missing something.
 
Like I said, these medium to medium-low toughness steels can be used for many applications. It can be surprising what they can handle.

Minimum required toughness can be tough to design for since what a customer will do is hard to predict. It’s not like designing for tool and die where a repetitive, known task will be performed. If a knife goes dull it can be resharpened but a chip or break is different. The knife makers advertising the toughness of their knives are in an even harder spot, as they have to overbuild their knives to the point where they barely cut anymore.

One benefit of high toughness steels is you can go higher on the Rockwell hardness scale to make fine cutters. Toughness isn’t the end-all property but should of course be considered with others.
 
Am I the only one who thinks toughness is WAY overrated in knives? Choppers are different but I find that any commonly used steel is tough enough for cutting things.
Larrin, you mentioned 10V which a lot of people think is very fragile. When I first tested 10V I bought some Zapp A-11 from Chuck Bybee. It was ~.080" thick. I hardened it to ~63 RC and ground it to .012"-.014" and convexed it to sharp. I did some cutting tests and then started batoning with it. I drove it through a 1" thick piece of cross grain hard Maple with no damage. Next I drove it through a 1" piece of cross grain Osage Orange/Bois D' Arc with no damage. Then I drove it through a ~.75" Axis antler tip and the only damage was a small shiny spot on the edge which I expect was a small roll. It sharpened back up easily.
I'm just saying that in my testing and use, toughness is hardly ever an issue with cutting. Tools that will see impact, like choppers, cleavers, etc. are a different story.
Just wondering if I'm the only one who feels this way and if I'm missing something.

When I started making knives five years ago, I followed other people’s recommendations of Rc#’s in the high 50s. I experimented with higher and higher mumbers and had zero issues with chipping. I ended up making most simple steel knives Rc61/62, and with steels like z-wear Rc63/64 is fine.
 
I made a 63Rc kitchen knife out of AEB-L several years ago and I couldn’t get it to chip. A point first drop into concrete didn’t break the tip either.
 
I have been using AEB-L for. All my stainless since I first built my HT oven. I have had no issues with toughness, and everyone who has bought one over the past year has been very impressed with the sharpness, and ability to retain that sharpness. I have recently started using Nitro-V for larger camp knives, but I haven't seen any appreciable increase in toughness. Not that it isn't tougher, but the gains may be subtle. I have noticed an increase in rust resistance, but AEB-L is pretty good on that front as well. I'm giving a piece of Nitro-V to Scott gossman, since he really likes torture testing stuff.
 
Larrin,

I have a question but first, thank you for posting. You and your pops are an asset to this forum and knifemaking in general and threads like these help those of us who want to weed through the bullshit and make informed decisions. Even if it means what we thought or what popular opinion is, is wrong...

My question for you is if you were to make a large chopper/hard use knife, that you wanted to be "tough" and stainless; which steel would you choose? Is there even a steel that qualifies that is readily available to the average knifemaker?

-Clint
 
Larrin,

I have a question but first, thank you for posting. You and your pops are an asset to this forum and knifemaking in general and threads like these help those of us who want to weed through the bullshit and make informed decisions. Even if it means what we thought or what popular opinion is, is wrong...

My question for you is if you were to make a large chopper/hard use knife, that you wanted to be "tough" and stainless; which steel would you choose? Is there even a steel that qualifies that is readily available to the average knifemaker?

-Clint
AEB-L, or 12C27M if I needed even more. Thick sizes can be difficult to come by depending on the design of this hypothetical large chopper.
 
aebl might be fine and dandy but when i was picking steels you coudl not find it in usable sizes (can it be had in 2x3 foot sheets these days?) you had to really push it to get 62-63RC numbers for sure carbide volume it wins for still being SS XHP is not perfect but it is smooth and dead easy to HT to rc63 can be had in all kinds of sizes. loved 3v for years but thought it could be made much better and 4v didnt do what i had hoped PD1 gave me the trade off that i wass looking for but is not SS. other thing to note is i take PM grades over same alloy that was wrought cast hands down for how even the steel is how smooth the edge can be and the added + of being ablel to be hardened a hair more with still havingn the toughness advantage over wrought alloy. as for why lower alloy grades are not offered in PM not much advantage to it cause of the lack of carbon anc carbide former's does not smooth out the already sparsely distributed carbides. PM has always been about packing the most alloy into a steel but keeping theng in check as far as grain size and carbide clumping

edit to add cpmD2 was great and eveyone hated it. it was more stainless and finer carbide distro could be hardened a hair more. the D2 fans hated the less toothy edge.
 
I don't think anyone is recommending the steels listed in the original post as those that excell at toughness. If anything I have only seen them compared against one another. (Ie: Elmax is among the toughest HC PM steels)

Even 3v which is touted as a great tough steel is not recommended for maximum toughness. Only that it is very tough while still being quite good in other catagories such as edge retention.

Infact I see lots of swords made from 1075 because 1095 was too alloyed for the production shop to make sturdy enough swords out of.
 
A number of the "charts" that I have seen seem to say that CPM154 is about the toughest of the PM "true" stainless steels at the obvious expense of some abrasion resistance.
 
Most people may think about tamahagane as being VERY high carbon and it probably is when it comes out of the smelter in rough sparky chunks, but what does it look like after you have heated it to forge welding temps many times and beaten on it for a day or two? I recall being told that by that point it is probably down to .75-80% carbon. So what steel has low manganese so you can get a good hamon and around 75-80% carbon and not much else? Production sword makers are not the only ones who use such steel. ;)
 
Larrin,

I have a question but first, thank you for posting. You and your pops are an asset to this forum and knifemaking in general and threads like these help those of us who want to weed through the bullshit and make informed decisions. Even if it means what we thought or what popular opinion is, is wrong...

My question for you is if you were to make a large chopper/hard use knife, that you wanted to be "tough" and stainless; which steel would you choose? Is there even a steel that qualifies that is readily available to the average knifemaker?

-Clint
Randall Knives may have figured this out. They use a medium Carbon stainless (440-B) at a lower Rockwell hardness so users can chop away. The edge holding is likely on the low side. Talking theory here. Do not own a Randall. Some Solingen stainless Bowies are made from low Carbon 440-A. Their edge holding ability is probably even lower than 440-B.
 
My question for you is if you were to make a large chopper/hard use knife, that you wanted to be "tough" and stainless; which steel would you choose? Is there even a steel that qualifies that is readily available to the average knifemaker? -Clint
high toughness stainless would be properly heat treated 440A. enough free carbon to get a 58-60 hardness, enough free chromium to be very stain resistant, and enough carbides to hold a good edge.
 
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