noob mistake - how do i undo my shaving sharp edge safely?

Discussion in 'Himalayan Imports' started by selanne8, Jun 26, 2012.

  1. C.S. Graves

    C.S. Graves

    Jun 13, 2006
    Rather than safety, it's likely just that the buffing wheels used to polish the mirror finish on most HI blades buffed the edges dull.... the karda are typically given less attention than the khukuri anyway.
  2. Last Visible Canary

    Last Visible Canary actively parsing hurf durf

    Nov 28, 2006
    The thing about thin kitchen knives is that by keeping the edges thick you actually put more force on the edge, dulling them and deforming them either equally as fast or moreso. With a thin edge of .010-.015" most food (other then things like coconut shells and bones or other hard objects) will give little resistence. The other benefit is that even when dulled, a .010" edge will act sharp, where a .020" edge will act dull. You can see this with really thin box cutters - even through the edge ends up *squared* from use, it still cuts cardboard. This is becasue of it's thinness, the cardboard can give less resistence to the overall geometry so it seperates (albeit with some tearing). Where if you take a 3/16" knife with a .040"+ thick edge, the second it looses it's initial sharpeness it's extremely difficult to cut cardboard, you might not be able to at all if your edge angle is obtuse enough, you'll just end up ripping off chunks or putting all your weight on the knife to get it to go through.

    Kitchen knives are very similar. A low hc steel won't be able to maintain it's shape when it's paper thin (.004" like some of the nicer japanese knives), but it will perform better without active sharpening at .010" then it will at .020".

    12.5 degree's per side is what cliff tends to use for his soft wood chopping knives. Personally I don't have good enough technique to keep the edges from deforming quickly, and I prefer to not have to sharpen my knives extensively after each use, though you should always do a light steeling/burnishing/pass on a stone to maintain a crisp initial edge. By getting rid of light dings quickly you have less chance of making them worse as they slam into wood during the next use.

    12.5 per side makes for a very thin edge. I'd prefer bringing the edge down to .015" and then putting a 24 degree per side micro bevel on it, because it will create a stronger initial edge but maintain the benefits of a thin overall geometry.

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