Norton Black Ice & Rhynowet Redline are not comparable.

DustinY

DustinY

Joined
Dec 29, 2016
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754
So, a while back when i was looking at what paper to get, i heard these two talked about in comparable terms. I've seen over and over that they are "pretty much the same" and that norton is better on more abrasive resistant material.

I've heard people on podcasts and stuff mention that they sand the more intense stuff like 3V etc with Norton because it cuts better. I believe the site i was already ordering belts from had the norton, so i decided to grab some. They also had the grit packs which allowed me to pick up a medium and fine pack.

After using all the 220 that came in that pack, i decided it was time to purchase some Rhynowet.

Here is my review after testing the Rhynowet tonight.


The norton is not even in the same category. If someone tells you they are close, or even similar, they haven't used both extensively. The norton produces a much finer scratch, isn't as abrasive, creates a more milky look, and as you sand, it is SUPER easy to see scratches. The product does not last though. A few passes and you have to move your paper. The result is like a much more milky result. i'll break it down into some pros/cons.

Norton Pros:
- Easy to see scratch pattern as you climb, stray scratches / any variation is very obvious to spot, and doesn't take looking from multiple angles / lighting. The finish is very uniform, and SUPER soft in comparison to rhynowet.
- Does well on hardened steel - but after comparing it to rhynowet, it comes no where close. Rhynowet gets 3x 4x the life, it doesn't feel like all the abrasives fall out, where as norton instantly after a couple passes feels flat and like it's doing nothing.

Norton Cons:
- BURN through paper.
- As you climb grits - it becomes increasingly hard to get a very uniform finish, and inconsistencies are very hard to get out. This could be inexperience, but it wasn't the same when using Rhynowet.
- Price.


Rhynowet Pros:
- This shit was designed to melt through hardened metal. Blows through sanding scratches, going from a belt to 220 grit you murder through sanding. EDM stones were literally the only way to grit progress with the norton, and even then, you'd have to use paper for hours to remove the 220 / 400 / 600 edm scratches. I don't think i'll have ANY issues melting everything together with this, and it won't take hours and multiple pieces of paper.
- Feels like the "right tool for the job" so to speak, design was intended for this. Creates a much SHINIER and rougher cut (no, this phenomenon that i'm explaining has nothing to do with grits either. I went over a 220 finish that i did with Norton, and it looked 10x different).
- Blends and creates a very straight and uniform finish WAY easier. Finishing passes actually take out issues/ j-hooks / etc quick.
*This paper is obviously much more coarse than the norton, but i struggled even when jumping from 320-400 with norton. Scratches are not easy, and you melt through paper and time when trying to climb the grits.*

Rhynowet Cons:
- This finish HIDES everything, and if you don't know where your scratches are, i can see shit being missed VERY easy using this paper. (I had a blade sanded to 220 using norton, and was working out like 10 scratches, most of them on the plunge line. I started using the Rhynowet and it completely changed the finish, and was removing scratches WAY faster, but if i didn't know where i was looking and what i was looking for i could be fooled IN THE SAME LIGHTING that they were completely removed, and they weren't. I found myself having to hunt for them, and change angles / lighting much more frequently, where norton is was CAKE to tell your progress so to speak).


I felt this was a needed write up, given my experience, etc. Let me know if you have questions and i'll answer. I foresee myself spending 3 times less time hand sanding, and when i get my disk sander, this is going to SPEED the process up even that much more. I do see myself occasionally missing scratches though with the rhynowet, it's a hard thing to explain but i've tried my best.

Proof i have both, and that i've used up pretty much most of my medium pack of the norton.

33Mz3Fb.jpg
 
I have not used Rhyno but I used a lot of both black ice and 3M. And in my own experience, 3M beats black ice in every department. Cuts faster, smoother and longer.
 
Joel Mercier said:
I have not used Rhyno but I used a lot of both black ice and 3M. And in my own experience, 3M beats black ice in every department. Cuts faster, smoother and longer.
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I think my final comment would be that if i was using a disk, i would use Norton, as it's very easy to see the progression and if you've gotten all scratches out EASY. But when you're doing it by hand from 220 up, Rhynowet is the best.
 
I’ll send you some 3m microfinishing film roll (which is what i mostly use) samples if u care to add to your write up comparison. I have Rhynowet as well but prefer the film roll which has a 5 mil backing.

As far as hardened steel, big big difference between high alloy steels and simple steels In terms of sanding and scratch removal.
 
Thanks for the comparison! It would also be interesting to compare Rhynowet Plus Line, which is silicon carbide in all grits (like Black Ice).
 
I just wish I could get rhynowet with a cloth backing for contouring handles. (Even el-cheapo abrasives seem 100 times better with a cloth backing)

I always use rhynowet , though, because it really isn't that pricey if you buy a bunch of it somewhere like supergrit.com.

I've tried Gator's black zirconium line and really liked it too. That was more ideal for very high pressure arm numbing handsanding though haha. The other thing I found with that stuff is their 50 grit stuff doesn't stay on their backing very well ... Basically leaving me with a horde of almost useless 50 grit paper. 100 grit and 220 grit was amazing in that stuff though. Very long lasting and aggressive (I'd say better than rhynowet) Supergrit had some on closeout some months ago. I wish I bought more!

Thanks for the comparison though! I was thinking of trying the black ice but looks like I have no real reason to change it up hahs
 
allenkey said:
I just wish I could get rhynowet with a cloth backing for contouring handles. (Even el-cheapo abrasives seem 100 times better with a cloth backing)

I always use rhynowet , though, because it really isn't that pricey if you buy a bunch of it somewhere like supergrit.com.

I've tried Gator's black zirconium line and really liked it too. That was more ideal for very high pressure arm numbing handsanding though haha. The other thing I found with that stuff is their 50 grit stuff doesn't stay on their backing very well ... Basically leaving me with a horde of almost useless 50 grit paper. 100 grit and 220 grit was amazing in that stuff though. Very long lasting and aggressive (I'd say better than rhynowet) Supergrit had some on closeout some months ago. I wish I bought more!

Thanks for the comparison though! I was thinking of trying the black ice but looks like I have no real reason to change it up hahs
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Have you tried using some leather of different thicknesses to back the paper? I find it helps a lot...
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Have you tried using some leather of different thicknesses to back the paper? I find it helps a lot...
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I've used masking tape to stiffen it up and prevent tearing. That seemed to work okay for doing the ole shoe shine on handles.

On my hand sanding 'stick' one side I do have leather on though and you are right it does help alot. I usually end up using that side more than the dead flat side!
 
john april said:
interesting review. thank you. i was going to try the black ice but i will stick to rhynowet. my first 2 years of trying to make a knife i used that vanilla colored sandpaper from home depot meant for wood LOL. :rolleyes:
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Haha, been there, done that. Thanks for reminding me, those sanding sessions still haunt me at night. :eek: :D

I went through boxes of cheap no name wood paper for every single knife. It's a completely different story with Rhynowet Redline. :thumbsup:
 
Why is hand sanding taking you hours?
 
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allenkey said:
I've used masking tape to stiffen it up and prevent tearing. That seemed to work okay for doing the ole shoe shine on handles.

On my hand sanding 'stick' one side I do have leather on though and you are right it does help alot. I usually end up using that side more than the dead flat side!
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An old leather purse from the s/o or any really, cut yourself a hand size piece. Don’t need to be glued or anything . The pressure keeps the sandpaper there.
 
I have use 3M, Norton, Ryhnowet and SIA (and I buy my sandpaper in pack of 50, so I tried them all quit a bit), I prefer SIA way more, silicon carbide for grit 80 and and 150, AO for up to 800 then switch to silicon carbide. People do not talk a lot about SIA on here, but I believe they are actually a very good brand of abrasive, pricier than norton but still way less than 3M. My second favourite is ryhnowet, very good also.
 
Alex T. said:
I have use 3M, Norton, Ryhnowet and SIA (and I buy my sandpaper in pack of 50, so I tried them all quit a bit), I prefer SIA way more, silicon carbide for grit 80 and and 150, AO for up to 800 then switch to silicon carbide. People do not talk a lot about SIA on here, but I believe they are actually a very good brand of abrasive, pricier than norton but still way less than 3M. My second favourite is ryhnowet, very good also.
Click to expand...

I’ve seen SIA mentioned in one other thread. I can’t grind it in Canada. Do you have a link? Even an American one?
 
allenkey said:
I just wish I could get rhynowet with a cloth backing for contouring handles. (Even el-cheapo abrasives seem 100 times better with a cloth backing)

I always use rhynowet , though, because it really isn't that pricey if you buy a bunch of it somewhere like supergrit.com.

I've tried Gator's black zirconium line and really liked it too. That was more ideal for very high pressure arm numbing handsanding though haha. The other thing I found with that stuff is their 50 grit stuff doesn't stay on their backing very well ... Basically leaving me with a horde of almost useless 50 grit paper. 100 grit and 220 grit was amazing in that stuff though. Very long lasting and aggressive (I'd say better than rhynowet) Supergrit had some on closeout some months ago. I wish I bought more!

Thanks for the comparison though! I was thinking of trying the black ice but looks like I have no real reason to change it up hahs
Click to expand...
AllenKey they have it with cloth backing it is called RhynoGrip It comes in a roll. I have used it and really liked it.
 
I use SIA, the red kind
(I've heared bad reports on treir blue kind)
I realy like SIA, cuts well. It is made in Switserland, so it may not be available at your side over the big water
 
Willie71 said:
I’ve seen SIA mentioned in one other thread. I can’t grind it in Canada. Do you have a link? Even an American one?
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I am also in canada, in quebec. I don't have a link for a online retailer beacause I purchase it in a specialized tool store where sia is their primary provider. What you could do is call the sia representative of your region and ask if they have a store nearby your location: https://www.siajjs.com/en/find-a-sales-rep
 
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