Recommendation? Not your typical D2 steel knife: durability?(with photos)

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Feb 26, 2018
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A question regarding D2 steel, albeit with a caveat.....

So I was a fan of Resident Evil 4 and there was a knife used by a character in it. Saw a custom knife dealer and had a version of the knife made like.....

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He made the knife suuuuuuuuuper thick (as in this is safely over a .25" thick, closer to thick kukri spine territory...possibly between 3/8 to 7/16" thick), and yet it holds a decently sharp edge and cuts anything nylon/cordura/tactical vest material like butter.....the overall length I think is about a good 3 inches longer than a kabar marine knife.

Well this thing lent so well to use that I wondered how it may fare to heavier use other than slicing. I know about the reputation of D2 being "brittle" but how brittle are we talking about? The thing pierces like a scorned woman's stare across a crowded room, solid wood benches get dug into about half an inch, but didn't know how dangerous that is for the point, albeit it terminates into a slope to point about half an inch or maybe 3/4" an inch from the slab like thickness.
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Because of the thickness and blade geometry of this thing, would this thing be up to light chopping or at least splitting small logs with light batoning? I understand the brittle nature people fret over the steel about, but didn't know that since this thing was obstinately thicker than most knives, if that made the typical worries regarding D2 minor or negligible?

I am having to order a diamond rod sharpener in order to touch up this thing.
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Daaaammmnnmm! That thing is fierce looking. Now I'm no metallurgist nor am I claiming to be, but I really don't think D2 is too brittle. If it has a relatively thick edge it should hold up to light batoning.

As for chopping the blade itself looks to be a little thin at the width(could just be the angles I'm looking at) to be going hog wild on a log. That could actually play into the batoning as well. Chopping through thin branches and such should be aok, though.
 
Because of the thickness and blade geometry of this thing, would this thing be up to light chopping or at least splitting small logs with light batoning?

D2 has been used in outdoors knives for generations at this point. Lemme put it this way. If the troglodytes in the Becker subforum haven't managed to destroy the BK24s by batoning them, chances are the steel is up to the task.
However, that design, beautiful though it is... it's just all the wrong geometry and blade shape for chopping and such...I doubt you'll break the knife. But I dont doubt for a second you'll expend a lot of energy by using the thing in a way it just wasn't designed to be used.
 
I LAUGHED. 10 points for the reference. Now if I can figure how much durability this knife of mine has, maybe I can figure out if I need to make room for ink ribbons or go all out lol

If you plan on using it outdoors, why not make a Prop First Aid Spray, keep it hollow and put some fire starting kit/small first aid kit in there? Maybe half or 2/3 the size of what the actual can would be, plenty of options out there, all you need is some spray and a label. RPF Forums might be able to help. Just an idea. :D
 
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Jack Krauser. That’s the character the knife belonged to lol.

Yeah I wasn’t llanning on making this into a dedicated batoning knife but I like knowing if need be that the thing isn’t gonna snap like glass, according to how some views on D2 steel have been voiced.

If I’m out in the woods and I chose to carry this knife with my loadout, there’s another knife like my Ontario knife rd9 on board for camp work.

The custom knife is worn small of back and such.

So that said, I shouldn’t act like I’m slamming a wine bottle on the hard edge of a concrete building then if I needed to lightly split a log (small limb?) if I’m stuck with this in a pinch I assume.

I wish the steel was easier to sharpen lol.
 
If you plan on using it outdoors, why not make a Prop First Aid Spray, keep it hollow and put some fire starting kit/small first aid kit in there? Maybe half or 2/3 the size of what the actual can would be, plenty of options out there, all you need is some spray and a label. RPF Forums might be able to help. Just an idea. :D

That is funny. I bought a box of American eagle ammo because of the somewhat similarity to in game 9mm ammo before lol. But nah I hadn’t been tempted to nerd out that much :)
 
You, sir, are my new hero! I’ve always wanted to see a real version of Krauser’s knife!

Lemme know if ya want the guy who made it! I have the prototype but he makes an 11” version that’s a bit more embellished. It’s called a Viper knife. Big Custom Knives is the website name can get url later etc. but yeah Krauser and I share a last name and was a quasi role model fitness wise when I was in freshman year of college XD
 
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Crappy pics but had to get custom kydex for it since the leather sheath was meh. Added to the kydex myself, though not really refined looking....

One question tho....what is a good rust prevention routine for D2 that doesn't involve parkerizing or bluing?
 
Don’t know how your knife was heat treated but d2 can be plenty tough.


That is something I hadn't gotten too much info on but when i had sent the knife to get sharpened up more by him, he tried to sharpen the back edge and said it "was waaaaaaaaay too hard to get sharp" because he already tempered it.

Mind you that edge wasn't cutting sharp to begin with, much like the clip point on a bowie knife sometimes comes unsharpened.
 
Some of my military customers have done incredibly stupid/fun things with my D2... I ran these at 60-61RC with cryo.

 
I need to ask about heat treat for mine, but i'd imagine mine could fuck up a garbage can too lol.

Mine were approx 5/32" thick though :D
 
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