O1 Steel for a Chopper?

Adventure Sworn

Adventure Sworn

Bushcraft Co. | Cody
Joined
Nov 25, 2009
Messages
301
Hey guys. Quick question...

Do you think that O1 tool steel, differentially heat-treated, would hold up well as a larger chopping knife? How do you think it would hold up in comparison to steels such as 1095 or 5160? I'm just not positive about it's impact resistance and flexibility.

I'm going for about 15 inches overall with a 10 inch blade, and the steel will be roughly 3/16 to a 1/4 inch thick.

I've been using O1 tool steel for my knives, and I'm very impressed with it. However, I've exclusively been making working/bushcraft knives with about 3 to 4.5 inch blades. I know that O1 is great for knives of such size, but I haven't heard or seen much at all with it in larger knives. Opinions?

If there are some older threads that I've missed, just shoot them my way if you could.

Thanks,

Cody
Adventure Sworn
 
As a user, I have not had any problems with my choppers. I have a Woodsman from NWA, and a Big Boar Tusker from Scott Gossman, both O1. Both have been fine for me. Edges are still hair shaving sharp.

BTW, very much interested to see a large camp knife or chopper from you.
 
I'm making the comp cutter I recently drew up in 01. I figured, why not go with something I know I can HT right.
 
Awesome. That's what I figured,... and those are the types of responses I was hoping for! :thumbup:

It'll probably be a relatively slow project, but the plan is to make to some type of leuku-influenced chopper. Learning how to convex will take some time but I'm sure I'll post up a finished knife when I'm done with one.

Thanks guys,
Cody
 
01 is a great steel for the job A.S.
I rather 'buck the trend' with my 01 blades in competition cutting, but they will take a hell of a beating and then still shave you clean after a couple of rounds of a competition course, no problem.
I know a few of the guys in Holland are using 01 for their competition cutters after I showed them it was a perfectly feasible steel for the job and they're getting on really well with it too.
Go for it ! (and show us the end results :) )
 
Cody,
I will add my assurance that O-1 is an excellent steel for large knives, with one caveat; The differential heat treatment. O-1 is a very poor steel to even attempt differentially heat treat. It is too deep hardening to allow for a good differential. The shallowest hardening steels work well for this. Harden the whole blade, and you will be impressed by the preformance of the blade.
Thanks,
Del
 
delbert ealy said:
Cody,
I will add my assurance that O-1 is an excellent steel for large knives, with one caveat; The differential heat treatment. O-1 is a very poor steel to even attempt differentially heat treat. It is too deep hardening to allow for a good differential. The shallowest hardening steels work well for this. Harden the whole blade, and you will be impressed by the preformance of the blade.
Thanks,
Del
Click to expand...

Yeah, what Del said! :thumbup::D
 
With a little practice, it can indeed be differently heat treated with great results. I've differently heat treatd thousands of O-1 blades. So has Brian Goode and Brian Andrews.

Nick
 
Last edited:
Nice. Thanks for all of the detailed information. :D Helps out huge, guys.

I'm going to experiment with a few different things. In the end, I'd really like to stick with O1, because as Fiddleback said, why not stick to something I know I can heat-treat right.

I'll surely let you guys know when I brew-up a chopping knife. I'm sure it'll take some time, blowing through scrap metal until I have convex-grinding down, but patience is a virtue. :cool:

Cody
 
I do mine with a rotary platten on my KMG. Set it tight and use light pressure. Other guys flat grind and convex it afterward. Scott Gossman does this, and so does Bark River.
 
The top knife in this picture turned out well using an Oxy/Aced Torch set up. Quench in slow quench oil or peanut oil pre heated to 125 degrees. Temper at 425 degrees 2 hrs twice.

Took alot of practice to get the feel for it but it can be done.

de5168e1.jpg
 
Like Nick and Brian said, O1 can be differentially HTed without issues. I've done it a few times but prefer to fully harden. I did it for a fella who lives in the Yukon territories near Yellowknife where air temps can be 45 below zero in the winter. He wanted the knives done that way because of the extreme cold. Honestly, I think a fully hardened blade would have be fine.
Scott
 
Fully HTed would have been fine I think too Scott.

A good 0-1 blade heat treated right us hard to beat no matter the HT method. As long as it's hard parts are hard :)
 
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