Octagon hafts?

H

High_Noon

Joined
Nov 14, 2014
Messages
183
I read with interest the "What did you rehang today" thread, which included some very nice work from our forum members, my compliments. My question is in regard to octagon handles: is there any advantage to utilizing an octagon handle and do such handles serve any practical purpose? Do they feel better in-hand? The reason I ask is because I will be hanging a recent purchase soon (a True Temper/Kelly Flint Edge 3.5#) - probably on a 32" haft and I sure like the look of those octagon handles. I am not sure if I should use a straight haft or not. Any advice or recommendations regarding the octagon hafts and the length/type of haft I should use on my impending rehang would be much appreciated. Thank you.

- Kevin
 
High_Noon said:
I sure like the look of those octagon handles.
- Kevin
Click to expand...

The only reason you need right there. ;)

I had this same question so I tried one out (on an axe and a couple hammers) and ended up really liking it - a couple family members and friends did too.
 
I think an octagon handle helps you to orient the haft in your hand. Any twist is immediately registered and corrected for. I think they help with accuracy.


House Handle does a lousy job of octagoning. They're lopsided and often too thin just before the swell. Better to do it yourself.



And yes, I like the look, too.


Axe1.jpg
 
Square_peg said:
I think an octagon handle helps you to orient the haft in your hand. Any twist is immediately registered and corrected for. I think they help with accuracy.
House Handle does a lousy job of octagoning. They're lopsided and often too thin just before the swell. Better to do it yourself. And yes, I like the look, too.
Click to expand...

Great explanation - accuracy is indeed important to me. Should I purchase a regular handle from HH and then attempt to octagon it on my own? Do you have any tips for octagoning a handle? I presume I would need a draw knife. Are there any other specialized tools I may need? I will need to purchase a draw knife. What should I look for in a draw knife - a straight blade (as opposed to a convex or concave blade) - length 8-10"? Will I need a spoke shave? Do you start with the main flats first and then work to the sides? I do own a host of rasps, files, sanders, etc...

The photo looks like the haft is six-sided, but I'm sure it's 8-sided. Also do you think I should do a 32" straight haft on my 3.5# Flint Edge or should I use a regular curved haft? I presume there aren't too many octagonal curved handles, but I'm sure it's probably possible. My intended use for this axe is felling and bucking. Maybe a bit of splitting, but like you advised me previously a heavier head in the 4-5# range would be better suited for splitting and I'm currently looking for a good vintage Kelly Michigan or Jersey in that weight range. Thank you!
 
Definitely helps with accuracy, but more importantly, an octagon handle is the polar opposite of a chubby, copy-lathed, painted, lacquered handle.
 
High_Noon said:
Should I purchase a regular handle from HH and then attempt to octagon it on my own? Do you have any tips for octagoning a handle? I presume I would need a draw knife. Are there any other specialized tools I may need? I will need to purchase a draw knife. What should I look for in a draw knife - a straight blade (as opposed to a convex or concave blade) - length 8-10"? Will I need a spoke shave? Do you start with the main flats first and then work to the sides? I do own a host of rasps, files, sanders, etc...
Click to expand...

I prefer to start with a Tennessee Hickory Products handle. They give you more wood to work with and their wood is first rate. House Handle is better straight form the factory. TH handles come too fat. But TH gives you the raw material to make a better handle in the end.

As for tools, spokeshave, wood rasp, 4-in-hand and sand paper will do the whole thing. Sometimes if I'm in a hurry I'll do most of the work with an angle grinder and sanding discs. Here's one done with the grinder:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1028309-Finally-hung-my-rafting-axe

1-Quik-n-dirty_slimming.JPG



Pulaksi.

Pulaski.jpg




True Temper hardened-poll Dayton:

A6-1.jpg
 
Great work. Hadn't thought of the angle grinder.
I like pics with that vice in them.
 
I got a new vise that's half-again heavier.........
whistling.gif


But here's another pic of that vise. 1-1/2" screw. The new one has a 1-3/4" screw.

2.jpg
 
Peg, I like that clear tubing guard on your file. Great idea, practical & cheap... I'd be lying if I said I hadn't knicked my thumb or pointer finger more than once while sharpening axes or hatchets. (not so much fun)
 
Nice work, Square Peg. I need to try some of those THP handles, as they look good and it is one of the places my friend and I used to haul slabs/scrap from for firewood as teenagers. I had no idea it was still there. We couldn't buy many new handles with our slim operating budget, but the factories would occasionally throw out cosmetic rejects (usually they cut them, but a "good one" slipped through fairly often), which our dads would use happily, as they were even then superior to what the hardware stores carried. The hickory scraps from the mills was highly desirable as it saved us a lot of splitting, which isn't as much fun when you are a teenager and have more interesting pursuits, not to mention more energy with which to pursue them :). We cut the slabs with a chainsaw and were done, and if we sold a load it more than paid for gas, cigarettes, etc., and funded other activities.
 
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