- Joined
- Mar 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,397
-----moved from another thread due to length-----
'Clove' oil as Choji oil?
or
Camellia oil as choji oil
Sells the latter version
http://www.kriscutlery.com/Kris/accessories/camellia.html
Oiling Sword Article at SwordForum.com, mentions clove oil
http://swordforum.com/sfu/primer/oiling.html
Page including instructions for oiling Japanese swords
http://www.japanese-swords.com/pages/handling.htm
I'm guessing the Camellia oil is more traditional,
being a plant oil rather than refined petroleum.
But I'd like to find some specific info.
Olive oil would probably be a good alternative.
An old acquaintence worked as a craftsman bookbinder.
He used olive oil on leather for binding books,
because he claimed it was archival and non-drying,
and it would not go rancid.
Probably the lighter grade olive oil the better.
1% clove oil could be added to it.
Clove oil has some antiseptic properties.
Maybe it also has some anti-oxidative properties.
Which may be why it was originally added to mineral oil.
Mineral oil from the pharmacy usually contains Vitamin-E.
Vit-E is an anti-oxidative.
I didn't know that mineral oil could go bad/rancid.
Can it?
-------
There are several weights of pharaceutical grade mineral oil.
The heavier ones are used as laxatives,
the lighter ones are used as skin emollients.
You can get a good idea of the weight by shaking the bottle.
Light mineral oils feel more like water and you get --Lots--
of little bubbles.
The very heavy mineral oils hardly shake up at all.
'Baby oil' is a 'pure' light mineral oil; if you don't mind the fragrance.
Some honing oils are light mineral oil.
Some are not or have many additives.
I ordered some pure light mineral oil from the pharmacist.
-------
For something coarser they carry Pumice powder.
The latter comes Course to Very Fine.
Look at this flower:
Common name: Camellia ------- Variety: 'Choji Raju'
So originally, Choji oil must have been the oil of the Choji Camellia plant.
I need to find research into flower varieties in Asia.
BTW, Camellia oil is commonly sold as a fragrance additive.
Soap, candle, perfume, potpourri incense, & more.
It is also sometimes used as a cooking oil.
From:
http://bujinkantaijutsu.tripod.com/care_and_feeding_of_swords.htm
"Genuine Katanas are famous for their polish and mirror like finish. This is not for merely cosmetic appearance. Steel has microscopic surface irregularities that can collect moisture and corrosive elements. A finely polished blade has smaller irregularities and sheds blood much more easily than an unpolished one. Hence, the more corrosive agents that collect in the pores, the more tarnish and rust will accumulate. A sword should be wiped down with a clean piece of cloth to remove old oil before use. Oil on the blade can interfere with its cutting ability. After use, the blade should be wiped off again to remove skin oil and perspiration, then lightly oiled before storage. As to the selection of what kind of oil should be used, here are some things to consider. You will be handling the blade when you re-sheath it (noto) and a little oil will get on your hands. Most petroleum-based oils are toxic and can build up after being absorbed through the skin. Common vegetable oil quickly goes rancid when exposed to the air and can severely discolor carbon steel if not properly removed on a regular basis. For centuries, the Japanese have used Kurobara (camellia oil) to care for their swords and tools. This oil is non-toxic and non- allergic. In a pinch it can readily be used for cooking and it even works well as a skin softener. A little bit of this excellent oil goes a long way and can easily remove light surface rust. Among Kurobara's other benefits is that this fine oil also conditions wood. A proper saya (scabbard) made of wood can soak up oil over a long period of time and help preserve your steel sword every time you re-sheath it. If you can't find Kurobara, choji (clove oil) works very well and has the added advantage of being a natural anesthetic for small cuts. Lastly, extra-virgin olive oil can serve to protect your sword from rusting."
http://www.dallasbonsai.com/store/page11.html
"Camellia Oil. Not too long ago it was used for cooking. Today it's used as a rub on fine wood, swords, tools, etc. It can also be used on Stewartia to redden and accentuate its beautiful bark."
http://www.oller.net/clove.htm
RE the spice Clove
"Japanese: Choji . . . . Chinese: Ding xiang, Ting hsiang, Ding heung"
So, the Japanese word for Clove is Choji.
So, maybe the Camellia 'Choji' flower was named for a clovelike fragrance.
"Choji Sword Oil
Oil speciallized to lubricate the Katana to avoid rusting. Made of Choji fruit oil."
Does this mean pure clove oil? Unlikely.
Camellia japonica 'Choji-Raju' was one name out of many for Japanese Camillia varieties.
"CHISA == Slang for CHOJI OIL"
From:
http://ftp.gnqs.org/pub/stu/martialarts/iaido/bladecare.pdf
"4. Abura: A rust preventive oil called choji a chamomile-like flower oil much like clove oil."
"2. Uchiko: The most finely ground claystone powder (between 30 - 35 grams and about 8000 grits, with powdered deer horn for bulk), used for cleaning the blade surface."
This, I think, differs from other references I've seen to powdered limestone or waterstone powder left after sword polishing.
I've got things to do........really.
Just one more link; to a thread about Japanese water stones / polishing stones.
Good info on how they are different from sharpening stones.
And makes me wonder if there's a similarity to the kamis' Magic Stone.
http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10552&highlight=camillia+OR+choji
Does anyone know which came first:by mixing pure mineral oil with pure clove oil,
'Clove' oil as Choji oil?
or
Camellia oil as choji oil
Sells the latter version
http://www.kriscutlery.com/Kris/accessories/camellia.html
Oiling Sword Article at SwordForum.com, mentions clove oil
http://swordforum.com/sfu/primer/oiling.html
Page including instructions for oiling Japanese swords
http://www.japanese-swords.com/pages/handling.htm
I'm guessing the Camellia oil is more traditional,
being a plant oil rather than refined petroleum.
But I'd like to find some specific info.
Olive oil would probably be a good alternative.
An old acquaintence worked as a craftsman bookbinder.
He used olive oil on leather for binding books,
because he claimed it was archival and non-drying,
and it would not go rancid.
Probably the lighter grade olive oil the better.
1% clove oil could be added to it.
Clove oil has some antiseptic properties.
Maybe it also has some anti-oxidative properties.
Which may be why it was originally added to mineral oil.
Mineral oil from the pharmacy usually contains Vitamin-E.
Vit-E is an anti-oxidative.
I didn't know that mineral oil could go bad/rancid.
Can it?
-------
There are several weights of pharaceutical grade mineral oil.
The heavier ones are used as laxatives,
the lighter ones are used as skin emollients.
You can get a good idea of the weight by shaking the bottle.
Light mineral oils feel more like water and you get --Lots--
of little bubbles.
The very heavy mineral oils hardly shake up at all.
'Baby oil' is a 'pure' light mineral oil; if you don't mind the fragrance.
Some honing oils are light mineral oil.
Some are not or have many additives.
I ordered some pure light mineral oil from the pharmacist.
-------
Go to a woodworking store and ask for Rottenstone.powdered limestone
For something coarser they carry Pumice powder.
The latter comes Course to Very Fine.
AHA !!! I think I just found my own answer to which came first !edited for addition
Look at this flower:
Common name: Camellia ------- Variety: 'Choji Raju'
So originally, Choji oil must have been the oil of the Choji Camellia plant.
I need to find research into flower varieties in Asia.
BTW, Camellia oil is commonly sold as a fragrance additive.
Soap, candle, perfume, potpourri incense, & more.
It is also sometimes used as a cooking oil.
AHA!!! AHA!!!edited for addition
From:
http://bujinkantaijutsu.tripod.com/care_and_feeding_of_swords.htm
"Genuine Katanas are famous for their polish and mirror like finish. This is not for merely cosmetic appearance. Steel has microscopic surface irregularities that can collect moisture and corrosive elements. A finely polished blade has smaller irregularities and sheds blood much more easily than an unpolished one. Hence, the more corrosive agents that collect in the pores, the more tarnish and rust will accumulate. A sword should be wiped down with a clean piece of cloth to remove old oil before use. Oil on the blade can interfere with its cutting ability. After use, the blade should be wiped off again to remove skin oil and perspiration, then lightly oiled before storage. As to the selection of what kind of oil should be used, here are some things to consider. You will be handling the blade when you re-sheath it (noto) and a little oil will get on your hands. Most petroleum-based oils are toxic and can build up after being absorbed through the skin. Common vegetable oil quickly goes rancid when exposed to the air and can severely discolor carbon steel if not properly removed on a regular basis. For centuries, the Japanese have used Kurobara (camellia oil) to care for their swords and tools. This oil is non-toxic and non- allergic. In a pinch it can readily be used for cooking and it even works well as a skin softener. A little bit of this excellent oil goes a long way and can easily remove light surface rust. Among Kurobara's other benefits is that this fine oil also conditions wood. A proper saya (scabbard) made of wood can soak up oil over a long period of time and help preserve your steel sword every time you re-sheath it. If you can't find Kurobara, choji (clove oil) works very well and has the added advantage of being a natural anesthetic for small cuts. Lastly, extra-virgin olive oil can serve to protect your sword from rusting."
From:edited for addition
http://www.dallasbonsai.com/store/page11.html
"Camellia Oil. Not too long ago it was used for cooking. Today it's used as a rub on fine wood, swords, tools, etc. It can also be used on Stewartia to redden and accentuate its beautiful bark."
"Oil: Traditional, Japanese clove oil known as choji abura is best; however, a fine grade of camellia oil, tsubaki abura, may be used as well. Avoid any heavy oil as it will have a tendency to collect inside the saya and gather dust."edited for addition
From:edited for addition
http://www.oller.net/clove.htm
RE the spice Clove
"Japanese: Choji . . . . Chinese: Ding xiang, Ting hsiang, Ding heung"
So, the Japanese word for Clove is Choji.
So, maybe the Camellia 'Choji' flower was named for a clovelike fragrance.
A site selling oil saysedited for addition
"Choji Sword Oil
Oil speciallized to lubricate the Katana to avoid rusting. Made of Choji fruit oil."
Does this mean pure clove oil? Unlikely.
Perhaps 'Choji' as a variety name is more modern.edited for addition
Camellia japonica 'Choji-Raju' was one name out of many for Japanese Camillia varieties.
From a Japenese glossary page:edited for addition
"CHISA == Slang for CHOJI OIL"
From:
http://ftp.gnqs.org/pub/stu/martialarts/iaido/bladecare.pdf
"4. Abura: A rust preventive oil called choji a chamomile-like flower oil much like clove oil."
"2. Uchiko: The most finely ground claystone powder (between 30 - 35 grams and about 8000 grits, with powdered deer horn for bulk), used for cleaning the blade surface."
This, I think, differs from other references I've seen to powdered limestone or waterstone powder left after sword polishing.
I've got to stop myself.edited for addition
I've got things to do........really.
Just one more link; to a thread about Japanese water stones / polishing stones.
Good info on how they are different from sharpening stones.
And makes me wonder if there's a similarity to the kamis' Magic Stone.
http://forums.swordforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10552&highlight=camillia+OR+choji