I need an axe for the above jobs that is cheap, reliable, and a good performer. To find one that fits the bill, I knew I would need an old axe. On fleabay, I have found several Collins I like, but have seen other brands as well. What common models have both splitting and cutting edges? What do you guys recommend?
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Old double bit axe for limbing and splitting
- Thread starter ConBon
- Start date
Usually you just set up your own edges the way you like them, unless you can convince an old timer to part with one that is up kept and the edges already set up like that. You can probably snatch a good double bit for under 25 shipped on ebay. I got a nice Plumb michigan for about 18 dollars a year back.
Square_peg
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For a splitting axe you need something with some meat in the cheeks.
True Temper Kelly perfect with the phantom bevels are nice. With ebay it is hard to look closely at the profiles to see what kind of shape they are in because the photos are not detailed enough.. Generally speaking you want one edge thicker than the other. You can set the edge up yourself but a lot depends on what you have to start working with. You don't know what the prior owner did to it. Usually the more you spend the better condition of the piece not always though.
good luck hope this helps.
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I think that splitting with a double bit axe is far from ideal (unless you are using "the twist" technique shown in a recent thread). For example, if it gets stuck you can't turn it around and hit the poll on the block to continue the spit. And they can be more dangerous, for example you can't safely leave one embedded in the chopping block for a while like you can do with a single bit.
A single bit is the best for splitting. It's kind of like a wedge and is safer and more effective. Particularly with the full length handle. Double bits are the best for chopping since they have better balance and are not as wedge shaped which improves accuracy and helps to economize muscle power, but overall they are not as safe as a single bit. An old Collins is a good choice for either one.
The axe leaned against the wood pile it split is a 3.5 pound plumb double. In easy to split woods (like the white pine above, barring knotty pieces), or with the right technique (twist trick, as shown by the Vido's video). I only use a single bit because I don't feel like I'm gonna whack my noggin with the backward facing edge when I'm swinging it.
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I own around ten double bit axes. Most have been from garage sales and a few from Ebay. I've found that most people that have owned these really didn't for the most part have any idea of how to profile a double bit. I've seen and passed up many that were power tool ground...the edges really ruined. for me, if I was looking for a nice double bit, I would look for one that has seen little use and profile it myself.
According to some of the old timers that I've talked with, they preferred a double bit with one end that was thinner and sharper and used for knot-free cutting; the other end was thicker and blunter and was used when knots were present or to cut near the ground where contact with dirt was likely... this is the way that I would set up a double bit.
For splinting I prefer a single bit with a 3Lb. + head or a splitting maul w/ a 5+ lb head for hardwoods like oak.
Just some of my thoughts, Double Ott
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Yep as has been already stated here, you want a working bit and then a grubbing bit on your double bit axe. It is nice to have 2 bits to work with, if you get into a pinch and mess up the one, you still have the other. They can be used for splitting, but as stated most guys like single bits better, you have the weight of the poll behind the bit to aid in splitting. Though you can use a good old double bit for what you are looking to do, just be careful.
Square_peg
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A double bit was good for the old loggers and is good for modern trail workers because you have essentially 2 axes with you out in the woods. In the back yard that's not so important. If you mess up the edge in the back yard then you fix it. No big deal. You haven't lost a day's work. Out in the woods the second bit pays off.
For splitting or chopping I like a 3-1/2 to 4 pound axe. For felling I prefer 3 pounds or less. If I were to choose one axe for both it would be a 2-3/4 or 3 pound single bit.
For splitting or chopping I like a 3-1/2 to 4 pound axe. For felling I prefer 3 pounds or less. If I were to choose one axe for both it would be a 2-3/4 or 3 pound single bit.
Good point, its my fault that I didn't mention that I would bring it with me on outdoor trips to use for getting fire wood. I thought it was trivial. I think I will pick up a single bit axe head w/ a shaft if I can at the fleamarket. I might still get a double bit for limbing only though.
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- Jan 15, 2007
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I have a 3.5# double bit with a high center on a 32" handle--it's set up with a fine polished edge on the one side and the other edge was honed and polished in the same profile then blunted with a file and convexed for grubbing and splitting. This would be a dual purpose cutting/splitting axe.
I also have an axe that is a 4# western style double-bit that has both edges finely polished on a 34" handle. The longer slimmer bits don't work quite as well for straight splitting but work quite well for splitting with a twist. However this axe is primarily set up as a cutting axe but will work for splitting if needed. It would be a shame to blunt/convex one edge for splitting when it has such a long slim taper. It's an amazing cutter/chopper.
For one tool to serve both purposes I think I would pick the first one as a limbing axe should be a bit shorter in the handle for close range work in tight awkward positions, and the high center cheeks split fairly well even with straight blows. I don't think a splitter should rely solely on the twist method to avoid sticking as sometimes you need a precise straight blow.
I also have an axe that is a 4# western style double-bit that has both edges finely polished on a 34" handle. The longer slimmer bits don't work quite as well for straight splitting but work quite well for splitting with a twist. However this axe is primarily set up as a cutting axe but will work for splitting if needed. It would be a shame to blunt/convex one edge for splitting when it has such a long slim taper. It's an amazing cutter/chopper.
For one tool to serve both purposes I think I would pick the first one as a limbing axe should be a bit shorter in the handle for close range work in tight awkward positions, and the high center cheeks split fairly well even with straight blows. I don't think a splitter should rely solely on the twist method to avoid sticking as sometimes you need a precise straight blow.