Another quick thought on olive oil,
just because I thought of it while just at the grocery.
There are maybe a dozen or more -basic- types (classifications)
of olive oil
differentiated by :
extraction method (mechanical, chemical, heat)
thicker or thinner viscosity
post extraction treatments
refining
natural acidity
chlorophyl content (exposed to light causes faster oxidation)
All of which influence (sometimes greatly)
the character of the oil.
Some of these differences may be responsible
in some cases
for different opinions re the use of the oil.
references:
http://www.milioni.com/fats/inglese/dati/1.htm (with recipes.....Yum)
http://www.the-nigros.com/notes/lessons/oils/extract.html (if you eat olive oil in any form,
read the last paragraph here
:barf: )
http://www.olivebusiness.com/OBGuest/MDym/traditional_olive_oil_Mark_Dym.htm
WOOD, OIL, AND WATER
http://members.iinet.net.au/~nickl/wood.html
Great article going into chemestry of wood & oils
Another good article with different angle & good discussion:
http://www.navaching.com/shaku/oil.html
Including instructions for french-fried bamboo!
Applies to any wood/lignin probably?
" there's an intriguing wood treatment which bypasses most of the traditional bamboo drying/treatment processes and that's to french-fry the green culm in hot non-catalyzed tung oil. Cut the culm and drill out the nodes. Heat a tube of oil to about 350 F. Introduce the green culm. When all boiling and other activity ceases cut the heat and allow the oil to cool with the culm submerged.
Here's what happens: All moisture is expelled as it's turned into steam and escapes as bubbles. All lignin in the wood is hardened as the oil temperature is above its hardening point. All the surface waxes will be melted and removed. During the cool-down period any air which was greatly expanded at 350 F. contracts and atmospheric pressure drives the oil into the wood. Wipe all excess oil from your culm and submit to the standard 3 month drying period.
The result will be bamboo which has had it's starches and sugars stabilized, all moisture removed and be thoroughly impregnated with hardened linoxyn. The wood will be markedly hardened and strengthened--being waterproof, dent proof, etc. The modulus of elasticity will drop considerably and the material will become even more rigid and 'musical'. The major component of a Stradivarius violin is the treated wood of the top plate. It's acoustical properties are what we recognize as exceptional sound. Once the culm has cured, craft a flute in your usual manner."
and from :
http://clip.dia.fi.upm.es/~boris/gaita/node5.html
Sweet Almond Oil
"`Oiling'' refers to soaking the pipes with some oil, so that the wood stays supple, does not get too much moisture (just like you do with your furniture), and small scratches (which, however, do not affect sound or playability) are repaired. This is a common practice in many types of bagpipes and other woodwinds......... Beware: do not use olive oil, mineral oil, or any other oil readily available around you. Usually those get sticky with time, or polimerize, or suffer from other disastrous properties. A commonly used oil is ``Sweet Almond Oil'', available in drug stores or (at least in Spain) from pharmacies.
Make sure you get oil obtained from sweet almonds --
check the label.
Mix very well the oil with water and decant it, in order to remove water-soluble impurities. E vitamin may be added to prevent the oil from getting rancid. Please refer to this document (
http://clip.dia.fi.upm.es/~boris/gaita/external_html/care.html ) with I got from Casey Burns WWW site for a discussion of different types of oil and their properties, as well as very sensible advices regarding care of woodwinds.
....................
......... The only product for goat skin bags that has been recommended to me is aceite de pata de buey (literally, ``ox leg oil''). This is an oil used for reins, riding saddles, and similar devices, and helps to keep the bag supple. N.B.: I have been told that ``ox leg oil'' might be the so-called neats-foot oil, which is used in the care of harness and other leather goods."
http://www.claytonemery.com/musketclean.html
" I prefer olive oil, which is tough, doesn't evaporate or turn rancid, washes out of clothes easily, and protects steel even in drizzle. Disadvantage: left too long, olive oil oxidizes to a brown crust, but this continues to protect the gun and comes off easily with cleaning solvent. One guy wipes his gun with Baby Wipes containing lanolin (grease pressed from sheep's wool). Modern gun oils work, but some experts think petroleum products harm antique and replica guns. Your choice."
